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PostPosted: June 27, 2020, 11:03 pm 
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While I wait for a micro SPDT relay to arrive, I nearly completed my dash. I used vinyl wrap from Vvivid and I think it turned out pretty well.
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I also spent a good bit of time trying to clean up my wiring. Last summer I hurried up some of the wiring in order to get it inspected. Now, I want it to be easily traceable in case I have any issues. I have 4 circuits that run off of non-switched power (Hazards, Brake lights, ECU, and Ignition). I am trying to figure out if these 4 circuits should be shut down with the battery kill switch or if they should remain live even with the battery kill turn off.
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PostPosted: June 28, 2020, 8:39 pm 
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This seems like a reasonable schematic for the highbeams. Chuck, is this similar to what you were suggesting?
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PostPosted: June 29, 2020, 10:54 am 
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I think that will work if those are the components you are using. Missing is the main switch to turn either beams on. And it doesn't cover your wanting some sort of flash to pass capability. I drew up the following what is what I was talking about. Sorry I don't do pictorial schematics. :mrgreen:

Not knowing the particular switches/column, I used generic switches and relays. Let me know if you need more help.


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PostPosted: June 29, 2020, 5:32 pm 
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Thanks Chuck! It will take me awhile to wrap my head around those options. I am using the NA Miata steering column and switches. For what ever reason, the high beams can be selected without turning the headlights on as the switch is always hot. To pass inspection, i wired the flash to pass and high beams together which worked fine but I don't think I should be able to turn the high's on without turning the headlights on first.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2020, 6:47 pm 
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Mnot wrote:
Thanks Chuck! It will take me awhile to wrap my head around those options. I am using the NA Miata steering column and switches. For what ever reason, the high beams can be selected without turning the headlights on as the switch is always hot. To pass inspection, i wired the flash to pass and high beams together which worked fine but I don't think I should be able to turn the high's on without turning the headlights on first.


The same is true for the NB column that I'm using. You can stop that from happening by providing power to the HI relay from the Low beam output. That way the low has to be switched on, but you lose flash to pass feature.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2020, 11:47 pm 
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Chuck, you are a genius! I used option #3 using relays. It works perfectly! Thank you :cheers:

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PostPosted: June 30, 2020, 7:58 am 
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Gavin, the downside of Option 2 wiring, (your Option 3 :mrgreen: ) is that the dash indicator does not illuminate when "flash-to-pass" is used. Not a problem really. Option 2 does prevent one from having to embed diodes in the wiring harness though. Glad I could be of some help and it worked out for you. Working on small problems like this helps keep my brain cells functioning.

I wonder if the reason the Miata may have the High beams always available independent of the may be due to some fluke in their implementation of daytime running lights? I don't know, never having a Miata.

Tommy, if I understand you correctly, your suggestion of feeding the high beam relay from the low beam relay ends up with both low and high beams on. This might over power the wiring if not considered beforehand. Somewhere in the back of my mind, I think this is a no-no from the FMVSS standards. Just sayin'.

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PostPosted: June 30, 2020, 8:36 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Gavin, the downside of Option 2 wiring, (your Option 3 :mrgreen: ) is that the dash indicator does not illuminate when "flash-to-pass" is used. Not a problem really. Option 2 does prevent one from having to embed diodes in the wiring harness though. Glad I could be of some help and it worked out for you. Working on small problems like this helps keep my brain cells functioning.

I wonder if the reason the Miata may have the High beams always available independent of the may be due to some fluke in their implementation of daytime running lights? I don't know, never having a Miata.

Tommy, if I understand you correctly, your suggestion of feeding the high beam relay from the low beam relay ends up with both low and high beams on. This might over power the wiring if not considered beforehand. Somewhere in the back of my mind, I think this is a no-no from the FMVSS standards. Just sayin'.


It is a no no from FMVSS. It should be and OR situation not an AND. The best solution is often the simplest which would be a high power SPDT.
Supply power to common, pole A to LOW and pole B to HI. We've gotten in the habit of using relays when switches worked just fine for decades.

Car makers use relays so they can reduce the cost of wiring (smaller gauge wires through most of the car). That makes perfect sense when you're building 200,000 of a model.
We're building one offs.

In my case I compromised and used relays simply because I was using the Miata column. On Tetanus, the R1, and Blackbird I used simple switches.

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PostPosted: July 1, 2020, 11:29 pm 
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Chuck, I made 1 tweak to your schematic in that I illuminate the dash light from the high beam wire to the lights so it is on when flash to pass or high's are selected 8)

Tommy, Relay #2 is an SPDT relay fed by an SPST relay. But I expect you already know that?

I am using a Bussmann fuse & relay holder and was able to execute Chuck's plan in a tidy way. I am really happy with the result.

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Last edited by Mnot on July 2, 2020, 10:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 2, 2020, 9:53 am 
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Gavin. I did my schematic intentionally. Since a wire is supposed to carry the current without self destructing, I kept it on the lower fused circuit. If a ground fault occurs in the dash lamp or the wiring to that lamp, the 5A fuse will blow before destroying the wiring and possibly create a fire. IF you put it on the 30 A circuit, good practice would require the heavier wire to the lamp.

Chances are slim, but the chance is still there.

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PostPosted: July 2, 2020, 10:54 am 
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if you want that light to illuminate on FTP, you could always place an in-line fuse where the wire size changes to the smaller wire feeding the dash light. Not elegant, but safe.

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PostPosted: July 2, 2020, 10:48 pm 
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Chuck, that makes sense. I "tapped" the HB feed at the bulkhead plug from the fuse panel to the headlights. It is a 12awg wire from the panel and the other side of the plug is 2 16awg wires with one running to each headlight. I would think many things would have to go wrong for your scenario to occur, but I can certainly add an inline fuse for good measure. To be honest, electrons baffle me :shock:

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PostPosted: July 5, 2020, 2:07 pm 
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Now that the electrical system is complete, I have one major hurdle left... The Bonnet! I am using Kinetic's cowl and nose for the Haynes plan. Any suggestions as to how to tackle this are very welcomed. I only have enough Al for one attempt. The rough cut seems like a good fit but the bending is what scares me.


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PostPosted: July 5, 2020, 2:36 pm 
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Cardboard template, trace on Al, cut, bend using gas cylinder/pipe of appropriate radius, done. :lol:

If you can find something with the correct radius to bend it, it's a pretty straightforward process. If you can't, it can be tough getting the bends right. Remember you'll have to overbend as it will "spring back" a bit.

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PostPosted: July 5, 2020, 8:40 pm 
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We now have a bonnet! I still have to massage the cowl side edge as my cut wasn't the best but it is usable. Once I massage the edge to a uniform'ish gap, I will bend the 90* to sit on the chassis rails. My oldest daughter was a big help with this project.
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