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PostPosted: October 7, 2020, 12:59 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
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Location: Delaware
If these LEDs are all COTS replacement items I bet the circuit to run them properly is already there and all you need is DC source and a fuse. If you were making this with bare leds, yes you need to think about current. I prefer Sumitomo waterproof connectors but they are harder to source sometimes.

For the plugs just have one for each light and tie the ground together on the chassis side and then to the chassis ground point.


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PostPosted: October 7, 2020, 1:23 pm 
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True, "if" the LED assemblies are touted as automotive assemblies, then yes, the current-limiting resistors are likely contained inside it. Probably.

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PostPosted: October 7, 2020, 1:27 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
I could use a little help from (as JD used to say) "the smart kids" who know 'bout electrical stuff.

I have 3 LED lights that go on the spare tire carrier. You can see them all on the preceding page (142) of my log. They are:

1) LED license plate light;
2) LED brake light;
3) LED backup light.



My questions are:

A) Do I need something at (or before) the tire carrier plug-in box to limit current flow or voltage?
No they should be fused already.

B) The LED wires are so fine and small, and they came with weird little connectors (photo).
What's the standard way of interfacing them to heavier, chassis wiring?
There is no standard, especially if you are going to a connector. I would restrain those wires close to the LED assemblies and splice heavier wires to the connector to withstand your repetitive use.

C) They will each be on a seperate circuit (light switch, reverse switch, brake light switch), so what's
the smart way to set up the chassis-side terminal block?
I would use a connector, not a terminal block. A traditional trailer connector would work well in this application

D) Should they all get tied to a common ground at the chassis-side, terminal block?
Sure, see my comment about the trailer connector




Thanks in advance,

Lonnie


My recommendations are in RED above.

The advice that KB58 gave is true if you are dealing with individual LED's. What you have is an assembly with LED's that is aleady designed for use with automotive systems of ~10-15VDC.

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PostPosted: October 8, 2020, 10:22 am 
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@WelderLee
@a.moore
@KB58
@hfmaxi
@rx7locost

Thank you, gentlemen, for your input. You've given me lots of new information, and that's what I needed.

It's frustrating that there is zero information about the electrical requirements for any of the three LED lights. I bought them all through Amazon. I'll have to see if I can find vendor websites and get some of these questions (internal circuits, fuses, resistors, etc.) answered.

Also, I now have some connector types to look at, which is a big, big help.

Thanks again,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 8, 2020, 7:26 pm 
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Lonnie, I used the Metri-Pac 240 connectors and while I like the theory of them and that they fit micro fuses (several options) the plug housings are a bit bulkier than I would have liked.

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PostPosted: October 10, 2020, 9:50 am 
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@Mnot
Thanks, Gavin, I'll take a look at those too.

In a bit of an update on the LED lights and the need for some protection when connecting to the typical 12V system, all three may be connected directly to existing wiring. So, no special protection or drop-down is needed.

I contacted IJDMTOY Auto Accessories (license plate light, backup light) by phone and found information on the Xprite (spare tire brake light) website. I was disappointed to find Xprite has discontinued the model I have (85 LEDs) for a two row version with 160 LEDs. I would have loved to have the additional brightness as we know our cars are below typical sight lines of SUVs, etc.

I also found some 2" wide leather straps and D-rings for my spare tire hold down. Those will be here by Monday.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 19, 2020, 8:01 pm 
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I'm posting a little early, but my plan ran into a problem, and I didn't finish my little subproject today, so I'll post what I've got.

The parts for the leather belt arrived a few days late. This was a piece I expected to farm out to a local leather worker, but I found we don't have any nearby, so I'm doing it myself. Here's the inventory.
Attachment:
File comment: Basic components
Belt 1.jpg
Belt 1.jpg [ 232.97 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


The leather punch is ancient one I've had for years and the burnishing stick I made from hardwood scrap. I haven't done any leather work since my high school Hippie days, but I know some basics.

The burnishing stick, which you use to round and seal the edges of the strap I made in 10 minutes with some round files and sandpaper.
Attachment:
File comment: Homemade slotted burnishing stick.
Belt 2.jpg
Belt 2.jpg [ 178.62 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


There are few things I can do in the house on my build, but this was one. I did a lot of the grunt work while watching the Petit Le Mans, 10-hour, IMSA race from Road Atlanta on Sunday. It was very competitive and interesting.
Attachment:
File comment: Petit Le Mans on big screen TV while working.
Belt 3.jpg
Belt 3.jpg [ 208.3 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


The edge work is labor intensive and time consuming. First, you need to bevel the edges of the strap. They make special tools to do this fast, but I decided to use my razor knife rather than wait a few days for the special tool to arrive.
Attachment:
File comment: Cutting bevels.
Belt 5.jpg
Belt 5.jpg [ 228.97 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


Then you have to 2-stage sand the beveled edges, first with a medium grit, then with a fine grit sandpaper to get the edge smooth, but leave the ends of the fibers open.
Attachment:
File comment: Medium sanding pad (150 grit)
Belt 6.jpg
Belt 6.jpg [ 245.08 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Fine grit sandpaper (400).
Belt 7.jpg
Belt 7.jpg [ 210.8 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


Once the edge is smooth, you use water applied to the edge, and run the slotted burnishing stick running over the edge quickly, many times, producing heat through friction to round it over and compress the fibers at the same time.
Attachment:
File comment: The light colored edge in the foreground is just sanded. The darker parts of the edge have been rounded over, smoothed and formed by the burnishing stick.
Belt 8.jpg
Belt 8.jpg [ 193.95 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


I wanted to edge dye the straps kind of in the Western saddle tradition. So, I used Frog tape (supposedly leakproof with water based paints and dyes) to seal the finished surface off and applied a black, water-based, leather dye to the edges.
Attachment:
File comment: Frog taped edges with black dye applied in two coats.
Belt 9.jpg
Belt 9.jpg [ 164.03 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


Unfortunately, the Frog tape did leak even though I edge sealed it completely with a steel rod. I can fix that with some Meltonian shoe cream, but hadn't planned on it. The big bummer is the D-rings I was going to use (early photo). The inside dimensions are not as represented in the vendor's online drawings, so the strap binds too much. I'm going to have to find new ones as this was the vendor's largest size.

The dyed edges have to be sealed with bee's wax and the burnishing tool, which I did get done today. I could have finished the whole rig today if the D-rings worked. Now, I'll have to wait a couple of days to get that done. Aaaaagh!
Attachment:
File comment: Edge dyed strap(s) sealed with beeswax.
Belt 10.jpg
Belt 10.jpg [ 174.68 KiB | Viewed 655 times ]


So, on to something else tomorrow, but I have appointments that are going to spoil most of the day tomorrow.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 20, 2020, 12:42 am 
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I too Lonnie did leather craft in school, skills that you never forget. Nice work on the belting, hope you find the right size D rings. This will really add to your build.

Although at my age I'm more into latex than leather, go figure :rofl:

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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: October 20, 2020, 5:54 pm 
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@horchoha
Thanks for the encouragement, Perry. I located and ordered some very different D rings today. They should be here in 2-3 days. They should look very cool, especially with the Western Saddle edging.

With respect to latex, nothing I've got looks good in latex anymore, Perry. :mrgreen:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 20, 2020, 10:48 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
I too Lonnie did leather craft in school, skills that you never forget. Nice work on the belting, hope you find the right size D rings. This will really add to your build.

Although at my age I'm more into latex than leather, go figure :rofl:


My wife (girlfriend at the time) wore a tee shirt "You would look better in rubber". I married her... YMMV

Keep at it Lonnie. I had friends working on the pits at that race. It was a good race.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


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PostPosted: October 21, 2020, 11:08 am 
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@Mnot

:mrgreen: My kind of humor too, Gavin. God help us (Perry included). :lol:

I'm praying we'll get a return to some kind of spectator attended racing out here in 2021. Long Beach is scheduled for April 16-18, but it's written in pencil just in case it changes due to continued COVID restrictions.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 30, 2020, 11:00 pm 
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I've been working on the locking retainer mechanism to keep someone from unstrapping the spare tire & wheel and just lifting it out and stealing it. I wanted something simple, but effective. Here's my solution.

This is a side view. It's held in place with magnets in the photo. I'll be welding it in place tomorrow. It's a simple 1/2" by 16 gauge tube bent to fit into a locking mechanism on the tire carrier. The spare has to move up 4" vertically to be removed from the carrier. This prevents the tire from moving more than an inch or so vertically, and it can't be slanted to the rear to get under the retainer since it bends down about 3-1/2" as you can see in the profile view below.
Attachment:
File comment: Profile view of retainer.
DSC05502.JPG
DSC05502.JPG [ 819.08 KiB | Viewed 439 times ]


Rear view of retainer.
Attachment:
DSC05503.JPG
DSC05503.JPG [ 846.76 KiB | Viewed 439 times ]


Here's the view of the retainer before welding it to the vertical tubes you can see (the ones with the magnets on them) in the first photo.
Attachment:
File comment: The tube connects to a bracket made of angle iron through two drilled holes. One side has a stop, and the other has a hole for a small padlock that prevents the tube from sliding out once locked.
DSC05501.JPG
DSC05501.JPG [ 810.46 KiB | Viewed 439 times ]


Here's the underside.
Attachment:
File comment: The knob clamps keep the tube snug against the bracket, so it won't rattle. The lock is in place and the tube cannot be removed without opening it (or cutting the tubes with a hacksaw).
DSC05500.JPG
DSC05500.JPG [ 848.88 KiB | Viewed 439 times ]


Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 31, 2020, 12:15 am 
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That's pretty cool forward thinking there Lonnie. Playing devils advocate here, I always say "that keeps the honest crooks from stealing it".
But that's just me, iffin I were an honest crook, I'd be going for the whole car, nut just some fluff :rofl:
Really great to see you progressing on the build :cheers:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: October 31, 2020, 9:38 am 
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@horchoha

Perry, the common wisdom these days is that it already has an excellent anti-theft device - it's a manual transmission. Hardly anyone knows how to drive one now [LOL].

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 31, 2020, 11:29 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
@horchoha

Perry, the common wisdom these days is that it already has an excellent anti-theft device - it's a manual transmission. Hardly anyone knows how to drive one now [LOL].

Cheers,


If you add a fly-off parking brake, you will cover the 99% of those who know how to drive a manual transmission. Most don't even know what a fly-off brake is.

:drive:

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


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