LocostUSA.com

Take a look at this StreetRodder article on recovering seats: http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/070 ... index.html

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Yay! The ebay coilovers came in! I bought these somewhat by accident. I was bidding on a set that was at $12 and set my bid too high without thinking. $48 shipped though is not bad though ($2 higher than the 'buy it now' option). I'll post pictures of my process of getting them mounted to some Monroe shocks. I'm going to attempt to keep the springs that came with the kit. I tested one spring and it's in the 350 - 400 #/in range. So they will need to be angled fairly far, but I also have a very heavy engine. So we'll see how far that needs to be later.

The seats are coming along I'm hoping to get the vinyl wrapped tonight. The wife starts her masters degree and I will have until 10 pm every Wed to work on the car. Hopefully I will be able to pick up the pace this spring. I know that it's ambitious, but I'd like to have the car finished by fall. No reason other than I'd like the entire build to take under a year... We'll see...

terrellr,

O, those sure look pretty and Mamou Blue too.

The rates are probably OK for your fronts being you do have an iron V8 going in there.

Do you think the monro shocks are heavy enough?

I'm thinking they will be OK since they will not be dealing with many if any side loads.

Keep the positive thinking and momentum going and you might really get this done in a year.

Power to yah!


Mark....

I'm hoping that the Monroe shocks are enough, they should be. Yes, if there is lateral load on the shocks that means that the suspension is failing and I have bigger problems.

More progress photos of the seats. I have the MDF painted and the slots cut for the straps that will hold the cover tight in the middle. I have also glued a back to the seams using a flexible vinyl glue. I'm hoping this will prevent some water migration and also strengthen the seams. I'm really ready to finish the seats. It took a lot longer to make the pattern and sew them then I expected (~20 hours). I guess I can't complain they will be ~$35 all said and done and I've never done something like this.

The seats are done! That was a more painful process than I envisioned in my head. Total cost (ignoring steel because I had it already) $40. Plus I have enough vinyl left over for interior parts and some headrests.

If I were to do it again:

1. Spend more time on the pattern and make sure that transition portions fit better.
2. Use a single piece for the back instead of two, I was being cheap and used 2 pieces of wood for the upper and lower of each of the backs. This cause the stretching of the vinyl to be difficult since it kept moving relative to itself.
3. I would add more of the 'tightening tabs' that punch through to the back to draw the vinyl tight in the depressed seams. I would put three on the seat bottom and four on the upper seat.

But in all reality those are minor fixes that would just clean up the seats. They don't look like I paid much for them, but I have a feeling that will match the rest of the car....

Yo, Ryan-
Hey, for a "first timer" at upholstery, they aren't bad at all! And ya gotta love the price.

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Ryan, I have a shirt that needs mending. I'll bring it over after work. Great looking seats. Congrats, Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

Thanks guys! I'm definitely happy with them, it's so hard to look at something and know it's flaws and not try to fix them. But there's also a 'good enough for now' point.

Ah! The engine is driving me crazy. I have spend quite a few more hours tracing wires on the engine. If I haven't said it too many times already, "alldatadiy.com is AMAZING!" even though I don't have the engine running yet, I would be getting nowhere without the schematics from there. They litterall have every single wire, connection, and it's all color coded and labeled for you. So far I have traced through almost all of the 104 connections on the engine computer and the 30 odd connections in another one of the control boards. I have quite a few more leads to trace down, but it's just taking FOREVER. Oh well, I'm off Friday and plan to tackle it all day.

Lotus 7 sighting!

I know of three Locost/Lotus in the Kansas City area, most of which I don't think get driven all that much (that I know of). But Russ you were spotted over in Shawnee. This was the first Lotus that I've ridden in, it's true right hand drive, the original dimensions, and rumored to be from England. Just wanted to say thank you Russ for sparking the fire and it's nice to see you out and about!

HELP PLEASE!

Question about engine starting...

Spent quite a few more hours pouring over the wiring diagrams. I traced every connection from the engine computer and the alternate computer. I figured out that the gauge cluster has to be plugged in and that I was missing a ground on the fuel pump. The gauge cluster is frustrating, I never would have guessed that it had to be connected, but I guess that it's connected now.


SO. There's gas in the tank, the pump primes when the ignition is hit, the starter moves the engine, the battery has power, there is spark on the plugs (I had pulled a plug out to watch it), and the gauge cluster lights up. BUT THE THING WON'T START! A friend told me that it's possible that the coolant temp sensor must be connected, it is currently not connected. Could this allow the engine to not start because the fuel injectors are not pushing enough fuel? If so any suggestions on fixing this?

Terrel,

The pump may be whirring and making noise but until you A: make sure the fuel rail is coming up to pressure when it whirrs, and B: Make sure the injectors have 12 volts on one side the whole time the key is on and the other side gets grounding pulses from the computer.

If A doesn't happen, you could have a bad fuel pump, a bad fuel pressure regulator, or maybe some stuck open injector(s).

If B doesn't happen, let us know whether it's the 12 volts that is not showing up (on the red wire of each injector), or the ground that is sent to each injector by the computer on the non-red wire.

Tom

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Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I

Good ideas, thank you. I have checked the injectors when the key is on and they have 12V, the fuel pump has pressure on at least one bank of injectors, the other may not have pressure. My question at this point is what would not be allowing the ground signal to the injectors? From what I can tell ALL of the wires to the engine have been connected and have not been cut. I have traced every wire from the engine computer to it's termination. Even though I know one bank of injectors has pressure it is not acting like one side wants to fire. It just spins. Some starting fluid makes it roar for a second, but it won't kick off. Could this be: a vacuum line problem, bad ground somewhere, coolant temp sensor, etc? Any ideas on the most likely problem? Thank you again for the help guys!

The ground signals are commanded by the ECM after several conditions are met:

The shock sensor cannot be tripped.

The throttle position sensor must not be sensing a "floored" condition. This disables the injectors to clear a flooded condition.

There are probably other conditions but I'm not an expert on EFI.

Tom

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Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I

immobilizer circuit?

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I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.