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Trochu makes a good point. With the nut installed, cut off the exposed threads in excess of 3. Slot the plate vertically above and below the resting point. Let the base plate support and locate the engine, not the stud to hole clearance.

Is the mount completely flat or does it have bumps? Bumps fit into recesses in the base plate.

The tubing should go in the frame and the plate should make the mount base. It will weigh less and be stiffer.

On the bell clearance, weld another tube (blue) behind the existing one, cut out the middle, then weld in .125" filler plates on each scarf cut end (green).

It looks like your trying to avoid a remote shifter and have speedometer drive clearance by creating a large offset in the tunnel. Add the green tubes.

Still looking for a smaller flywheel and starter so I can cut the bell housing down. Been using it for some tine now with no problems,BUT???? LOL

Unless you can find a bellhousing set up for the aforementioned smaller flywheel, it's not going to be easy because the starter needs to move inward to stay engaged with the now-smaller ring gear.

Lately I have been woking on my rear suspension. I have the my rear end welded in place by some temporary suports. I am going with a parallel 4 link with a panhard bar. I am going to use rod ends on both ends of the trailing arm and on the panhard bar. I have two pipe diameters I have been looking at 1.00" and 1.25" which do you guys think would be best for the trailing arms. I am worried about deflection in the rear end making the trailing arm come into contact with the frame upright if I use to big of tubing for the trailing arms. Sorry about no pics I hope to have some of my progress up shortly.Thanks

It has been a while since my last post, but my hands have not been idle. As I stated in the last post i have been working on my rear suspension.

I went with a parallel 4 link with panhard bar. I have used rod ends all the way around, and have set the ride height at 5.75 inches from the bottom of the frame.

I used 1/8" thick 1.75" square tubing for the mounts on the axle and frame and they are fully welded inside and out so they should stay put...I hope.

The panhard bar as well as the trailing arms are made of 1.25" DOM tubing. I bought the weld-in bungs and rod ends from QS components.
As always if you see me doing something stupid let me know. I hope to have my spindles and other hub assemblies soon so I can get started on the front suspension.

You probably should add some gussets at the axel attachment of the panhard bar, inline with the bar. It's a relatively long lever with all the stress concentrated at the weld. FWIW

This ^. Not near enough bracing.

I plan on adding bracing on the trailing arm and panhard bar mounts once i get the rearend out of the car. I will be able to get at both sides of the mounts easier for welding with the rearend out of the car. Thanks for the input.

Your absolutly correct; while I had a box section affair in mind; sized to clear the hiem joint at one end extending at about 45 to the axel tube. It would be asembled from 2 triangular pcs. and then capped. Welded along all seams it would provide near complete and equal support along it's length as well as in tension & compression i.e. L & R turns. That's not what I said Thanks for the catch.
In other words "I know what I ment to say; I just didn't say what I mean".

I haven't posted in a while because I have been busy and trying to work on my car as much as I can. I am makeing some progress but I am not quite where I want to be.





The car is finally a rolling chassis. I have all of the suspension done other than buying my coil-overs and the rear coilover upper mounts.



The steering rack is out of a mustang that I am going to use as a manual unit and the steering column is one you would find in a stock car. I bought the steering column due to its simplicity and lightness.





The rear suspension is a parallel 4 link with panhard bar. I finally sured up the panhard mount. The front tires ar junk ones I had laying around and the rear are off my mustang, I will eventually get new rims and tires i was thinking 275 width in rear and a 225 in front.

This weekend I am going to hang my pedals and start on my scuttle. I do not have my nose cone yet and was wondering if it would be smart to build my scuttle without it. Also wondering what the average scuttle height is, from what I am finding in my research it is about 10 inches. Thanks for looking and good luck on your builds.

Still looking for a smaller flywheel and starter so I can cut the bell housing down. Been using it for some tine now with no problems,BUT???? LOL[/quote]

You might take a look at the Speedway Racing Catalog and check out the Quartermaster bell housing and 7.25 diameter multi disk clutch options. This strategy drops a ton of weight of the package and looses several inches of height. Tilton / Sonic as well as a bunch of other manufacturers are in this market.

You might want to also consider a used dry sump system for a Ford at a very attractive price. If so, contact John at emscar70@aol.com., (Fresno CA). He has several on the shelf from his Trans Am Mustang days he would like to get rid of. Lots of additional Ford stuff on the shelf as well, including cams, valve train components, low profile wet sump pans, etc..... he has some very interesting parts available..

It has been a while. I have been working on the car off and on over the past 6 months and have accomplished a lot. After may trials and tribulations the engine and tranny are done and in the car, the electrical is done, the plumbing is done (fuel, brakes, cooling, exhaust.) I still need to get the driveshaft made and get coilovers. I plan to get the car to the go-kart stage in 1 month and have it finished in 3. Then the getting the thing legal will be next. I have done nothing to make the car a looker yet sorry.This is what the car looks like...tell me what you think.

Fantastic! Glad to see you're still working away... Almost there!

It looks fabulous.

I like it; at this stage it has a kind of stripped down, minimalist, form-fallows function look.
Those glasspacks are going to be LOUD!!!, but I'm sure you already know that. They are cheap and will let you test & tune w/o becoming the noisy neighbor.
My compliments on your build everything seem well though out and executed I hope I do half as well.

Roger