First off you guys have sucked in another crazy car builder. I bought Keither Tanners book early last year, actually two of them, gave one to Erik (the one building the Green Lantern sidekick). I bought both copies of “How to build a cheap sports car”, US version and English version. And I put off starting this project till October of 2010, Erik kind of shamed in that his car is almost done. So I have been burning the coal trying to catch up. So the following will be from start to current. This is not my first rodeo, as I have built several bugeye sprite SCCA racecars and a twin turbo factory five Cobra.
The Locost build started with the procurment of a complete 1996 Miata, which was disassembled and boxed. While I was doing this Erik started needing parts so the parts I had ordered from Kinetics ended up in his build. I also created molds for the front and rear fenders from scratch, that set me back time wise, but was a need to do item. I have also been playing with a Tillet go cart seat. I have sliced and diced this seat 10 ways to Sunday and you will see it in the pictures as it morphs from 12” to 16” and is now high back, still rough but the shape is getting there.
The build table is a sheet of ½” plywood with a sheet of white masonite on top (easier to write on and disposable) and four 2x4’s on the bottom and is sitting on a cart that I already had. The cart is sitting on 2x4’s because I needed to get the engine hoist under the table. Yep I have that T-shirt, but on a plus side, the table hasn’t rolled away from me.
So the frame is started and the engine is located about an inch to the passenger side, in line with the rear diff.
The dreaded upper bar bend was done with water sand a vice and the cap to my EMPTY co2 bottle to bend around. First try was acceptable and was used on the car.
The Miata rear sub frame met with my new Plasma cutter, which allowed me to get the rear located almost to the correct position as a straight axle.
This is my shot at holding the rear IRS in place with a stabilizing mount that is attached to the frame front and back of the IRS. Bolts are rubber isolated on the ends. Also used the stock sway bar and a set of coil over shocks
I built the trans tunnel out of sheet metal, instead of tubing and the drive shaft part of the tunnel bolts in
My front track is two inches wider than the rear, so the steering rack was shorten 6” and the tie rods were lengthen by 4”. Kinetics parts used on the upper A arm and ¾” OD 7/16 ID tubing used on the lower A arm, drilled and tap to ½”. Kinetics suspension brackets used to locate the front suspension.
A shot of my engine cradle to locate the engine on the table
Mocking up fiberglass
Cat fish nose from kinetics
Tilton Pedals, Miata steering column and Ebay steering wheel
This is a shot of my fire breathing dragon (Trane Gas heater), if you ever get a heater for the garage or the shop, I have found that 2 ½ times oversized is about perfect. You can get comfortable very quickly with this beast
More updates as progress is achieved.