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Did you hear that guys? You may be able to avoid buying that $35, Home Depot conduit bender and making wrinkle-crinkle bends. I'm going to go back and check on the radii I put at the rear in the 3D model of my one-off. I hope its 3".

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Nice job on the fender mounts, they look robust. Maybe people would be interested in the mounts too. I'd like to see people helpng make parts for our builds on this site. If you want to try adding something to your signature about that. Oh wait, is that something that's broken these days?

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

If it turns out that a 3" center line radius will work for you let me know.



I wish I could change mine I haven't lived in Williamsport in 6 Years LOL.
I figured I can do simple bends on small parts that are easy and affordable to ship like the corners of the rear tubes and tubes for fender mounts etc or anything else people may think of.

Well before the 10in of snow fell last night I was able to finish up the headlight mounts. I’m still trying to decide if it is worth running the wiring thru the mount as it really only reduces the amount of exposed wiring by a couple off inches but adds hassle when it comes to wiring. It’s supposed to be above freezing this weekend though so hopefully the snow will melt and I can back at it and make a battery mount.

Although it's extra work, running the wires in the tube would look a lot cleaner than on the outside. Just use a coat hanger as a fish wire.

I like your headlight mounts, but with all the vibration they'll see, I'd fasten it so it couldn't rotate over time. I don't thing I'd count on just friction to do the job.

You could use a simple 2-plat tab welded on to the tube, and fasten it using your forward cap screw. I just did a quick indication in your photo. Probably 16-gauge material would be strong enough.


You're making great progress. That first drive video can't be too far off.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

If you are worried about the lite bar rotating, just drill a small hole thru the top bracket and install a roll pin. Dave W

or a small strip of flatstock welded to the bar underneath and bolted down in the same holes as the clip, loose the clip
john

^+1

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Small pieces of angle stock welded to the front and back of the bar with holes for mounting?

People also do things that integrate the coilover mount into the cross tube, to reduce twisting load on the coilover mount. So maybe you can try to connect these problems together and make both things work better.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Thanks for the comments everyone. The mount I made now has a 1/8" layer of rubber sandwiched in between the mounting brackets and the tubing for the headlights. And I'm hopping that will be enough friction to hold it. I have had issues on past vehicles with to much vibration and crappy bulb life so I was hopping to reduce this possibility. If they move in once I have the car up and running I will probably take everyone's advice and just weld the brackets to the tubing or glue the brackets on with some window weld or other urethane adhesive.

Its hard to see but my upper shock mounts actually extend down and attach to the vertical support tube reducing the torsional loads on the upper tube. I may still make a removable tube that connects the left and right upper shock mount. and the support tubes I have going from the rear upper control arm mounts to the transmission tunnel. A tube welded in there seems like it would make getting the engine/transmission harder to get out. I know when I installed them that the harmonic balancer just cleared the tubes that are there now.

I did make some progress this weekend on the battery mount. The structure that holds the battery up is done I just need to finish the paneling that will go around the mount and seal the foot well off from the engine bay. I may also build a box to hold the fuse block into this area as well. If space allows for it.

I decided that I wanted to work on my gas pedal. It has been sitting on by bench for a couple of years and I was never happy with it so I half started over. The pedal pivots on two ball bearings that are pressed into a sleeve that is welded onto the frame. The pivot shaft is a section of 3/8" bolt that is threaded into a blind hole in the top of the gas pedal. The bottom of the blind hole is tapped for a 1/4-28 set screw that allows you to adjust were the bolt bottoms out and subsequently change the angle for the arm on the other side. The arm is welded onto a socket that goes over a nut that is silver brazed onto the bolt and the prevents the arm from rotating and also allows coarse adjustment of the angle of the arm. On the top of the gas pedal there is an additional arm welded on that is attached to a threaded rod that provides for adjustable stops for pedal travel and for the return spring to be attached. This weekend I hope to get to making the mount for the cable casing and and making a custom throttle cable.

Lee
Bonus points for the throttle stop/spring
Dave W

Thanks it works pretty good but I need to find a slightly weaker spring as the gas pedal is a little to stiff for my liking.

Took some time this weekend to finish up the the throttle cable so now I have a working gas pedal. Just need to mount the remote master cylinder reservoirs for the brakes and I will have all three pedals functioning.

I had some free time over the long weekend and I was able to get the rear fenders mounted along with making some trim pieces out of aluminum angle to follow the curve of the fenders around the cockpit. I also took some time to make a drive shaft and with a little wiring the car could move under its own power now.