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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 18, 2011, 10:07 pm 
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There are are few youtubes out there with people using a jig on their lathe but they used a hole saw. A lot of them speculated that an end mill would work well so I gave it a try. The nice thing is that you can feed it from the side so things don't start bouncing around I have a small (read flexible) lathe.

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 12:06 am 
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I like this build !!! OLD SKOOL! Nice building, reminds me of a barn from my youth.

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 7:15 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
It looks like you have a great goal to emulate. As far as the MGB kingpins, Why not just use the trunions? The control arms would just need a U-bracket at the ouside end to bolt right up. Pretty easy to implement and would be "period". Not too many Locosts being built here with WW's. Bumping up to 165-15 tires and wheels would look better than the 14" MGB wheels IMHO. Congrats for chasing your vision.




Alas, I've yet to find a set of MGB spindles with trunions that aren't chewed up through the bronze bushing and into the steel. A set of rebuilt spindles with new kingpins are about $600.00 so I solved the problem by drilling half in. holes through large bolts that are fastened in the trunion at the bottom and at the bushing hole at top.

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 7:15 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
It looks like you have a great goal to emulate. As far as the MGB kingpins, Why not just use the trunions? The control arms would just need a U-bracket at the ouside end to bolt right up. Pretty easy to implement and would be "period". Not too many Locosts being built here with WW's. Bumping up to 165-15 tires and wheels would look better than the 14" MGB wheels IMHO. Congrats for chasing your vision.




Alas, I've yet to find a set of MGB spindles with trunions that aren't chewed up through the bronze bushing and into the steel. A set of rebuilt spindles with new kingpins are about $600.00 so I solved the problem by drilling half in. holes through large bolts that are fastened in the trunion at the bottom and at the bushing hole at top.

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 7:17 am 
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I've yet to find a set of MGB spindles with trunions that aren't chewed up through the bronze bushing and into the steel.


I thought they came from the factory that way!?!?!? :roll:

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 7:31 am 
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bremms wrote:
I like this build !!! OLD SKOOL! Nice building, reminds me of a barn from my youth.



The barn is very charming, but also tough to build in. The floor is super wavy. To counteract that I built a steel biuld table with adjustable feet. On any windy day, I have to start by adjusting the table back to level becaue the barn moves with the wind. It's very strong, but all the wooden pegs have become loose over time. (The barn was built in 1793).

We'll probably move next year. I long for a nice three car garage with a nice flat, concrete floor!


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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 11:28 am 
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gregaustex wrote:
I love the period correct look you are going for. Here is a 1959 Lotus that I have saved for my someday, maybe, after the kids are gone build...



My kids are out the door. That's when I started this project!

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 12:24 pm 
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It's very strong, but all the wooden pegs have become loose over time. (The barn was built in 1793).


Maybe it's less humid inside then when it was a working farm. Animals and hay etc. It's great that building is still there. When it was built no one would have imagined the things inside it now between the tractor and a sports car.... Bet they wanted them though...

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 12:59 pm 
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We'll probably move next year. I long for a nice three car garage with a nice flat, concrete floor!
in my opinion, you'll not have enough space in a 3-car garage. By the time you get 2dd's in there it leaves little room to spread out the build and to store tools. If I had a barn like yours, it would be full of a lot of orphan cars and hopefully have enough room left over to play with them on the side. :cheers: You made the right decision to divide up the space for heating.

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 3:33 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
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It's very strong, but all the wooden pegs have become loose over time. (The barn was built in 1793).


Maybe it's less humid inside then when it was a working farm. Animals and hay etc. It's great that building is still there. When it was built no one would have imagined the things inside it now between the tractor and a sports car.... Bet they wanted them though...


I store boats, cars, someone's plane and other stuff for people in the winter. pays for the the taxes. Owning a barn like this means you have to work on it constantly which leaves little time for car building. It would be a great place for someone has a 30-car collection. IN other words, someone really wealthy!

Any takers?

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PostPosted: December 19, 2011, 11:47 pm 
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Hey signbandit,

I don't get around here very often, but darn glad I decided to check in.! Anxious to see what you're doing. I have exactly the same thoughts. I pulled the suspension from under a wire wheel '66B I found in a yard (not to much stuff like it in FL yards). Same goal, a vintage vide, wire wheel build. I agree about the wire wheel rear axle being to narrow. I have a set of the Triumph bolt on drive hubs (the Spitfire/GT6 small bolt pattern 3-3/4"?) but need to get another axle. I was gonna use the MGB lower arms, trunnions and rack and fabricate new uppers. But I want to see pics of your solution. For drivetrain, my two on hand choices are a 2.0l Pinto and 4spd or a 2.8l 60'V and T5. I have no shortage of 14: wires, just not sure how many are any good.

Keep it buildin'.
Mikey B


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PostPosted: December 20, 2011, 6:56 am 
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I took off early from work yesterday to sandblast the rear axle. Compressor broke. Then I went to tap threads into some tubing and my vise broke. These are the days I HATE Harbor Freight! Other days I love them.

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PostPosted: December 20, 2011, 7:09 am 
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dodgedartgt wrote:
Hey signbandit,

I don't get around here very often, but darn glad I decided to check in.! Anxious to see what you're doing. I have exactly the same thoughts. I pulled the suspension from under a wire wheel '66B I found in a yard (not to much stuff like it in FL yards). Same goal, a vintage vide, wire wheel build. I agree about the wire wheel rear axle being to narrow. I have a set of the Triumph bolt on drive hubs (the Spitfire/GT6 small bolt pattern 3-3/4"?) but need to get another axle. I was gonna use the MGB lower arms, trunnions and rack and fabricate new uppers. But I want to see pics of your solution. For drivetrain, my two on hand choices are a 2.0l Pinto and 4spd or a 2.8l 60'V and T5. I have no shortage of 14: wires, just not sure how many are any good.

Keep it buildin'.
Mikey B


I like the 2.0/2.3 liter Ford motor a lot. There are lots of performance parts because they use them at local circle tracks. The motor is also very, very strong in the lower end. I had friends that used to drag race turbo versions in the 80s and they'd crank the boost up until the heads would pop off. No one ever lost a crank or rod. Also, the four banger will also sound '50's with a high duration cam. The six won't.

As for the wire wheels...The problem I'm having right now is that the ww adaptors for the front of MGBs won't fit the axle of the wider disc wheel B. I'm going to have to run a 1/2" spacer, then the adaptor will on longer interfere with the axle and nut.

If you ever need MGB parts, come up this way...there are tons of rotted Bs up here waiting to be gutted. One problem you'll have with the lower a-arm from the B is that you may not get enough track width if you go with a wider rear axle. My frame is 1" inch wider than a book build and I need new lower a-arms to get the front track slightly wider than the rear. You definitely don't want it the other way around!

Good luck with your build. It's nice to know there are others dedicated to the old stuff.

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PostPosted: December 20, 2011, 7:39 am 
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signbandit55 wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
It looks like you have a great goal to emulate. As far as the MGB kingpins, Why not just use the trunions? The control arms would just need a U-bracket at the ouside end to bolt right up. Pretty easy to implement and would be "period". Not too many Locosts being built here with WW's. Bumping up to 165-15 tires and wheels would look better than the 14" MGB wheels IMHO. Congrats for chasing your vision.




Your 15-in. wire wheel comment sent me on a search for larger dia wheels. I was surprised to find out that (according to Dayton) the Lotus 7 had 13" by 4.5 inch wheels. Funny, I always assumed the 7 had 15 inchers. Then again, they may have had 13, 14 and 15s given that it was a kit. Anyone know if this is correct?

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PostPosted: December 20, 2011, 10:48 am 
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I've seen that red #37 Series 1 a number of times in person and it seemed like those wheels were larger than 13".

Sorry for the large photo but if you zoom in on the right rear you can make out "-15" on the sidewall at the 1 o'clock position (its hard to read the rest of the writing but I'm going to assume that is wheel diameter). I have a few other Series 1 pictures I've snapped over the years and the tires have similar "-15" markings.


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