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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 20, 2011, 12:37 pm 
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signbandit55 wrote:
One problem you'll have with the lower a-arm from the B is that you may not get enough track width if you go with a wider rear axle.

I unfortunately found this out after I'd already built my front A-arms. Minimum track for a book Locost with really skinny tires is around 51", which is about 2" more than an MGB. In back you can use spacers or a different axle. In front you need longer A-arms.


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PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 3:08 am 
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A few months back I looked for the original wheel size for a Series 1 Lotus 7... 15" is what I found on several sites.

Dean


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PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 8:28 am 
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DeanD3W wrote:
A few months back I looked for the original wheel size for a Series 1 Lotus 7... 15" is what I found on several sites.

Dean



Thanks!

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PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 1:43 pm 
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On the wire wheel thing, the stock size for the S1 7 was indeed 15" x 4", and were 48 spoke. I would highly reccommend going to 60 spoke (which i used on my car). For the hubs, you might look at getting TR3/4/5/6 wire wheel hubs as they are a bolt-on hub and share the same bolt pitch circle as the MGB. The downside is that the TR hubs use 7/16" mounting studs, where as the B has 1/2". You can replace the B studs with 7/16 from the TR's or you could opend the holes up on the hubs. The problem with opening the holes up is finding suitable nuts. The TR nuts are chamfered both sides, the one side is chamfered to clear the hub of the wheel, the other to help center the adapter.

As for the Spit/GT6 bolt on hubs, they are shorter than the standard wire wheel hub and use a special wheel that only fits the Spit/GT6 hub. So, in my mind useless unless you want custom wheels or stay with a 13" wheel.

One more thing, if you think the wire wheel B axle is narrow, try fitting a Spridget axle into a car, now that is narrow. But with the hub adapters on it, it does clear the 39" wide chassis of the Seven (and Eleven).


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PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 8:08 pm 
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The problem with opening the holes up is finding suitable nuts. The TR nuts are chamfered both sides, the one side is chamfered to clear the hub of the wheel, the other to help center the adapter.


Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do on my lathe. I already have the B WWs sandblasted and coated with self etching primer. I also have to use half-inch wheel spacers as the hub adaptors don's fit over the metal surrounding the axle nut.

Ah well.

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PostPosted: December 21, 2011, 11:00 pm 
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signbandit55 wrote:
Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do


Doesn't that hurt?

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PostPosted: December 22, 2011, 12:00 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
signbandit55 wrote:
Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do


Doesn't that hurt?


You have to pick the right tools and go slow. It helps to have a couple of glasses of wine first.

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PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 9:57 am 
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signbandit55 wrote:
carguy123 wrote:
Doesn't that hurt?

You have to pick the right tools and go slow. It helps to have a couple of glasses of wine first.


You musst have zee correckt tools und ze correckt la-bore-a-tory assistant, yah, Herr Doktor?
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PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 2:26 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
signbandit55 wrote:
Looks like I have some nut chamfering to do


Doesn't that hurt?



I think today all the cool guys call that "man scaping", good thing I'm old school and understand what you mean by chamfering your nuts. Did I say that right?

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PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 2:48 pm 
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Did some more frame assembly last night and started welding up a few of the joints to keep things rigid and stop stuff from bending. So far the frame is totally straight and true. I think it's because I'm clamping it to a steel welding table that has a MDF top that is bolted every 6 inches to the top.


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PostPosted: December 23, 2011, 8:50 pm 
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Here;s my solution for eliminating the lower trunion and upper bushing for the MGB front kingpins. Nothing is set in stone yet. The heim joints at top are threaded into a jig. The big old bolts will have the heads turned thinner by quite a bit. There are grade 8 captive washers behind the castellated nuts keep the suspension in place if the spherical part of the heim joint falis. I had a very old Beattie Formula Ford that had this washer set up. Thankfully a heim joint never failed so I can only hope it works.


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PostPosted: December 24, 2011, 12:11 pm 
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Yo, JD-
Clever design. I think if you're using two heims on top and bottom (one on either side of bushing/trunnion) that it should be plenty strong enough for a lightweight car like a 7.

:cheers:
JD

{I think I should be JD1 and you JD2. Just sayin...}

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: December 24, 2011, 9:42 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo, JD-
Clever design. I think if you're using two heims on top and bottom (one on either side of bushing/trunnion) that it should be plenty strong enough for a lightweight car like a 7.

:cheers:
JD

{I think I should be JD1 and you JD2. Just sayin...}
causin


I can be JDD, since that's my intitals. On the Heims, What I have yet to determine is that if I make the A-arms on top so the front and back tubes aren't welded to each other, will the spherical ends of the rods (at all four rod ends) allow the upright to rotate (causing positive and negative caster and maybe a little camber movement as well. I have a very scientific way of figuring this out. I will fab up the a arm tubes on top so they aren't welded to each other, bolt the thing together and see if it moves. If it does, I'm welding another tube to join the front and rear tubes to each other (near the upright). Heavy 5/8 x 1'2 inch heims are overkill, but who cares about unsprung weight when you're running 165 SR14 tires on wire wheels?

Happy Holidays!

JDD

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PostPosted: December 25, 2011, 8:55 am 
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Yo JDD-
I had a similar "thing" on the rear control arms in my build. I went with bushings on the outside ends, because I was concerned with rotation of the arms. These were the rear CAs, and more of an H than an A shape. I think if the two outer are close together and you have a cross brace it will help, but I'd be concerned about unwanted rotation, just like you said.

I performed the same experiment, built an LCA and then swung on it. With stiff poly bushings, rotation was negligible. I'd be interested to know your results with heims, especially since I shied away from using them!

Merry Christmas to you and yours-
JDK

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: December 25, 2011, 7:12 pm 
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I didn't want heim joints either so I went with rod eyes. More surface area and still adjustable for camber. My A-arms are two piece, with a bolt-together cross tube, similar to the shock arms on a stock M.G. We'll have to see if it works.

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