LocostUSA.com

I figured it was a good time to start a build log.

I figured it was the best to do this from the very start of the design process and ordering and choosing the parts that will be used.

This build does not for say fit the "LOW COST" of this website theme, but will fit in to a non traditional L& styled build over all.

I will try to add posts as often as possible.

The first part of the posts will cover some of the basic parts I plan on using in this build and how they will help with the design for the over all for the car.



My husband is the mechanical person in this build for the most part, as his knowledge base is more in that side of things. I my knowledge is more on the design and also with body work in both metal and composities. Over the years and though both of our families we have been introduced and made friends with a lot of people in the automotive industries. So we will be using them for the knowledge to help and improve the build process.




I will post some real info on this build either to day or tomorrow to get things going. This is just a good intro to the project post for now.

Definitely looking forward to watching this build come together. As as far as cost goes, the phrase "low cost" is an entirely subjective concept...And in my humble opinion the term "locost" (as opposed to the proper noun Locost) has blossomed into more of a state of mind than it is any specific measure of a car/build.

That is how I see things, I know there are all different build budgets out there, from the person just scraping by with what they can get to the full on high end custom build. I admit that this will be more of a higher end build, but this does not mean that we have an open checkbook either.

My husband and me are lucky that we were able to before the downfall of the ecconomy to save and invest in ways that were not hurt by this happening. My husband still works a full time job and takes pride in his work. We both are NAVY Vet's, both of us are disabled to some extent from this, but neither of us would ever change what we did or the jobs we did while we were in the Navy.

As for me, I am no longer employed outside of a small family bussiness, that we are trying to build, with some help from my older sister. I am 90% disabled according to the Goverment. But this does not stop me from doing things I enjoy and doing a little bit of work that I enjoy. All this does is give me a reason not to put things on hold and to do these projects.

Something I learned when my oldest daughter was born is " A disablities is only something that medically and socially says that you are different than others. If you do not let your physical disablity run and control your life, but you learn to work with and find ways to live your life to the best. By doing this you are taking control and a disablity will not define who you are, but it will only be one small part of who you are."

My oldest daughter who is now 18 and a freshman at OHIO STATE, was born with spina-bifida and is paralyzed from her waist down. She has not allowed this to slow her down or stop her from doing most things kids her age were or wanting to do. She is planning on studying Automotive and graphic design. Taking after her father and me in our love of cars.


I will post a starter list of basic parts, I plan on using that are going to make a differance in the chassis design, that I am working on.

A list of basic parts I needed to know the dimensions for before I started to work on a layout for the chassis.


Radiator - as this would determined the width of the car at the front of the body work. I have had good luck working with Meziere products in the past, so i am planning on using there Scirocco style double pass stock radiator the have. The specs are 25"wide x16.5"tall x2.5" thick. the radiator comes with -16an fittings installed for inlet and out let, both mounted on the passenger-side, with out a filler neck. It also comes with an aluminum fan shroud and a 16" electric fan already installed.

Engine - I am going to be using a rebuild and stroked 3.0L Toyota 2jz motor, stroked 3.4L with a TRD head, aftermarket intake manifold and aftermarket turbo manifold for T-4 twin scroll turbo.

Transmission - I have come across while searching a factory toyota V-160 6-speed transmission at the same price as a new T-56 or Tko series transmission would cost. So, I figure it would be lest work to adapt and use this transmission.

Rear axle- I found a Currie F9 series fabricated ford 9" IRS housing, they also carry stub axles and all normal 9" parts will also work with this. So I am planning on using this for a little less modification work to have to be done.

Front and rear upright - I am planing on using C6 corvette used units. This will allow me to upgrade the brakes and still be able to use the tire and wheel package I am planing on using for both street and track use.

Tires and wheels - Forgeline CF3C centerlock conversion wheels, 19x10 front and 19x11 rears. for track use I plan on using Hoosier R^ track tires and unsure right now on brand for the street.



Chassis design as of right now - 2"x4" 6061-T6 aluminum for base frame structure with 7075 3/8" thick plate for floor and firewalls. This should give a strong solid base to build the rest of the chassis and roll structure out of 6061-T6 aluminum 1.50" or 1.74" .125" wall tubing. I have to double check both NASA and SCCA rules to make sure that this will pass inspection for track use, before I go further.

I do not plan on using a roll cage style design, but instead dual roll structures on at the dashboard area, that will be 6" above the steering wheel and the second behind the passengers above the height of a person wearing full race gear including helmets, this will be a 2 stage system as required by NASA and SCCA for open cars.

I plan on skinning the lower portion of the chassis with aluminum to help with stiffness. The upper portion will be made from a mixture of composites depending on the need and location, plus over all weight.


For some starter dimensions

front track 70"

rear track 68"

max body or tire width 75" measured at outside of rear wheels

Wheelbase 108"

overall length - undetermined right now

Max height at roll structure 42" 48" from ground

ride height 6" , good for both track and street use this way, will make side skirts and front and rear ground effects if need to improve aero performance





I am having issues right now with my mac running a 3d modeling program and can only work in 2d so the drawings are coming very slowly right now.

Wow thats gonna be awesome..always thought the 2jz was a good option..its gonna be a weapon when its finished
Kiwi Dave

Others will disagree with the motor choice, for being to heavy compared to other choices. I always liked the supra's and if there was enough support for the old 22re motors I would even think about using on of them. The old 22re were like the slat 6 from dodge - you could run them all day and not kill them, but there is very little support for them to make any real horsepower with them.

Actually rebeca there was a lot of support for this engine in the oval track world several years ago. On the track it went head to head with the pinto 2.3. Maybe a search of the oval track clasifieds would turn up a fair amount of parts.

will look around some then. I will stick with 2jz for this build. But had the 22re in both an old pickup and an old celica and it ran all day and wound not die, even after running it low on oil a few times.


I will be updating my list of parts used for chasis design any layout soon as I have settled on my steering rack. But want to make these posts of there own. I will also start posting picks of the parts to give better idea of what I am using.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but SCCA only allows the use of DOM tubing in either mild steel or 4130 alloy steel for the roll cage structures.

That was why I brought it up, I will have to adapt my design, still no a big deal, just means making a few changes. Does this mean that just the roll tubes mounted behind and in front of the driver are required to be dom or alloy steel and the rest can be aluminum.

If not then I will have to totatly redesign my design so far.

Thinks for letting me know this.

All required cage tubes must be the same type of steel.

ok, so roll bars and support bars will have to be steel. Almost sounds easier to build entire chassis from steel, that bits at it is heavier.

I will play with a few ideas and go from there. I guess I could bolt the roll structure and support tube to the aluminum main chassis, but not sure how this will go over. I guess it is back to the drawing board again.

I have seen this done on a mid-engine design and the car won the SU class last year in NASA.

Morning RebecaLynn,

Why not do something like the powerboat racers do? Build a "capsule" of steel and satisfy all the requirements of the class and then bolt up the remaining frame of aluminum.

Basically a Oreo Cookie of steel and aluminum. Be easier if something ever happened too as you could simply build a new section and transfer the parts over.

That could cover both your needs.

Cheers!

KS

The last picutre is from the factory SLC that won NASA SU national championship last year, the other two are from another build aand are of a apporved roll structure. I am looking at going more along this basis, building the car with a semi-monocoque design from alluminum and then adding the steel roll support structure from there.

only main differarance is I will design my according to open car specs with dual rear roll bara and a forward bar over the steering wheel and part of the dash. So that it is hight than your hands while driving. this along with side bars to connect the two togeather should pass acourding to the rules.

Since you're starting with a clean sheet of paper be careful about copying or using many ideas from that car in your pictures. Just because it won something doesn't mean there is anything worth copying there.

A good steel tube cage and associated frame can weigh well under 200 lbs. and would likely be stiffer then the car in the pictures above. You can get free programs to help with the stress analysis and we can provide help on that. You can also search this forum for "FEA" for threads on this.

The double roll hoops you are considering are weaker and contribute less to overall car strength, if I understand what you mean They are less safe if the car rolls in dirt or sand. Not allowed by the rules either, I think. As a practical matter they are also hard to install because I don't know what you would connect them to.

I use Google SketchUp for my drawings on a Mac, it's OK but it's just drawing not really drafting. There is a free drafting package from Dassault for Macs. I had to borrow a PC to do my FEA work.

I'd love to see more pictures of the type of older roadsters you're interested in. I'm looking for ideas on that and think it might produce a better looking roadster for the bigger (mostly taller ) modern engines. I also wonder if the older look would help with the license and registration process, some states seem to consider pre '48 vehicles differently.