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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 23, 2012, 7:42 am 
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Joined: August 28, 2010, 7:53 am
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Here is a torsen on Ebay with 3.23 gear set for $149. you might find one a little cheaper, but thats a fair deal. I suspect you can take the locking components off the gov-loc and use it as an open diff (preferred, IMHO) I think when they break, that they usually just work as open, rather than "exploding"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-02-Camaro-7- ... 499wt_1185


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PostPosted: June 23, 2012, 12:20 pm 
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Joined: June 21, 2012, 11:23 am
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Thanks. I will definetely be doing this upgrade once the cars running.


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PostPosted: July 11, 2012, 1:28 am 
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A little more progress in the past couple of weeks.

Mounted the radiator. Hopefully the triple core aluminum civic radiator with fan and shroud will be enough to handle the cooling for the engine. The rad is about 2.5" thick.
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Freshened up the motor. New carb, new/used intake mani, valve covers, oil pan, fuel pump, oil pump/pick-up, water pump, and gaskets all around.
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Seat sliders and seats mounted. Harnesses mounted and harness bar welded up. Still have to mount the submarine belt under the seat.
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PostPosted: July 11, 2012, 3:56 pm 
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That motor looks mean and fast just sitting there...the headers are great.


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PostPosted: July 11, 2012, 5:06 pm 
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We are Slotus!
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Yo-
I'm kinda diggin' those headers myself... They doo look good, Bro!

The Ford Racing valve covers made a big difference as well.

Keep after it, you're movin' along well now!
:cheers:
JD

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 11, 2012, 6:16 pm 
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It may cool it adequately depending on a number of factors.

I suggest an oem fan that draws a lot of amps, like from an early 90s taurus, baffles inside the nose so air cannot go around the radiator, lots of space around the headers where they exit the side panels, and a 180 degree thermostat.

You can also restrict the bypass, use a larger crank pulley and a smaller pump pulley, and slightly increase the size of the coolant holes in the head gaskets as a last resort.

Another option is similar to what's called a surge tank, but route it in series with the upper hose so coolant flow must go through it. Make it big to increase the amount of coolant in the system for the engine to heat. If it doesn't prevent overheat, it will at least slow down the rate of temp rise.

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PostPosted: July 12, 2012, 1:14 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
(snip) lots of space around the headers where they exit the side panels, and a 180 degree thermostat.(snip)


Do you recommend wrapping / treating / coating the headers, in the hopes that the heat won't dissipate under the hood?

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PostPosted: July 12, 2012, 4:02 pm 
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I think you want to dissipate heat, as much as possible.

I don't know if it's just the 351C, but I have bad memories trying to keep one of those things cool on hot days. Of course the engine was in back, but it had a huge radiator and massive fans and a big surge tank near the engine inlet. Still, you had to take it really easy on hot days. I coasted a lot. But just a fabulous engine, smooth and free-revving right up to redline.


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PostPosted: July 12, 2012, 7:16 pm 
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Insulating the exhaust gas temps from under hood air is good. Cast iron manifolds are better insulators than headers due to the thicker wall thickness and reduced surface area. Ceramic coating, heat shielding, and wrapping helps both to be better insulators.

Wrapping and ceramic coating only the outside of a part is bad for the part because it raises the operating temp of the part. Ceramic coating should always be inside and out.

Heat shields should be solid, not perforated and made from a metal with a low thermal conductivity, such as steel. Aluminum is a good radiant barrier but a poor insulator as metals go. The melting temp is also much lower than steel, which is why firewalls are steel, not aluminum.

It is a good idea to dissipate heat, but not under the hood. The idea is to remove the heat. 1/3 of the heat is already in the underhood air from the radiator.

Nick,
You had a Pantera?

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PostPosted: July 13, 2012, 1:27 am 
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I was hoping that since most of the header tubes are outside of the engine bay it would help with keeping the bay temperatures cooler. I also live in Seattle, where weather in the 60s and below are the norm. Most likely the car will be run without a hood since the carb and valve cover breathers stick so far out. Eventually I will be glassing up some kind of humped/scooped hood like the stalker cars.


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PostPosted: July 13, 2012, 5:07 am 
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Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
I hate to pile on more advice/suggestions/ect. But may want to make temporary "cover"/scoop for air cleaner. I also live in pacific northwest, (OR coast) and while my locost is in a VERY early stage, I do have experience with driving open filtered cars in OUR weather. I have a 20v AE86 daily/donor, lol. I have open throttle bodies, and clamped on a temporary (2yrs now!) set of side draft K & N carb filters, and oiled them heavily, but still during heavy rains, the road mist alone makes the engine stall/hesitate/bog BAD. THIS IS WITH A HOOD! Granted, I have removed the plastic undertray since the first oil change.

Not to preach, just to offer some outside perspective. I love your build so far, and am a Ford guy myself. Used to have 351W in my Cougar. I recently hydraulic'd a great 390 ford in my Bronco, (I don't expect you to be driving your car in situations like I was in, but I digest, or digress, or something. Its late.

Keep us posted, I love seeing it coming along


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PostPosted: July 15, 2012, 12:36 pm 
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Rolled the car out to do some garage cleaning. I completed the temporary drive shaft. Installed the belt brackets and alternator. Temporarily installed and bled the hydraulic throw-out bearing to test function, which works surprisingly well.

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PostPosted: July 15, 2012, 4:19 pm 
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Yep, it's official, ferr shurr, done deal... I love those headers...
:cheers:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 15, 2012, 5:10 pm 
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I keep thinking about them HUGE ports on the Cleveland 4V heads. .. add in them humongous exhaust pipes and that thing looks like it'll be an ankle burner on deccel :mrgreen:
YEEEHAAWWWW!

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PostPosted: July 19, 2012, 1:48 pm 
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Finished one side of the exhaust. It goes from 2 1/8" primaries to a 4" collector, reducing into a 3.5" exhaust. The muffler section is 12" long with a turn down tip. Still have to mount the rear hangers.

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