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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 12, 2018, 11:20 am 
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For some reason, I love that last pic with the leaves. All of them are nice though. :cheers:

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PostPosted: November 13, 2018, 10:29 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Great photos.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 14, 2018, 2:21 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
andrew484 wrote:
rebuilt way back when with 8:1 comp pistons probably for some kind of forced inductiom


I'd save my shekels for a supercharger kit.

Come on, you know you want it...


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PostPosted: November 14, 2018, 3:27 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2015, 1:55 pm
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Nice pictures. Congratulations on building such a nice car.


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PostPosted: November 14, 2018, 3:50 pm 
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TRX wrote:
andrew484 wrote:
rebuilt way back when with 8:1 comp pistons probably for some kind of forced inductiom


I'd save my shekels for a supercharger kit.

Come on, you know you want it...


That's just another 30-50lbs on an already super heavy engine. Aluminum heads would save 100lbs and add 200hp.

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PostPosted: November 15, 2018, 2:03 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
The 351C weighs about the same as the 350 Chevy. The only lighter iron V8 out there is the 221-302 Windsor.

There aren't any heads that are going to pick up 200hp on his motor. 8:1 indicates he has open chamber heads; he'd pick up 35-50hp going to closed chamber heads; doesn't matter if they're iron or aluminum. (Ford's official Muscle Parts figures, from back in the old days) Weight savings between a pair of iron Cleveland heads and aluminum Cleveland heads is only about 25 pounds for the pair; the aluminum heads are thicker everywhere, which negates most of the savings from the lighter metal. First time I put some on the scales I was surprised...

200hp more is doable, but not with the pistons and cam he has. Just the heads would cost more than a supercharger, plus engine teardown, new pistons, rebalancing, plus new cam, lifters, and valvetrain components. That assumes his intake and carb are useful with the new bits, and that he wants to spend the time needed to dial it all in.

A supercharger kit starts looking downright cheap by comparison.


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PostPosted: November 15, 2018, 3:18 pm 
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Joined: June 21, 2012, 11:23 am
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I’ve been thinking about looking for another junkyard Cleveland to build up. At the same time, the car kind of scares the [PooPoo] out of me so I’m not sure more power is a good thing.


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PostPosted: January 28, 2019, 4:44 pm 
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Joined: June 21, 2012, 11:23 am
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You guys were right. The original grill did block too much air flow. Ended making another grill. Hopefully it'll be a lot less restrictive.


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PostPosted: January 28, 2019, 7:24 pm 
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I suspect the fan does not pull enough amps. Advertised cfm is usually bs.
Restrict the bypass hose flow to force more coolant through the radiator.
Set the timing to spec. May be able to find a smaller water pump pulley.

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PostPosted: January 29, 2019, 12:35 am 
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I actually have done most of those things. The problem had finally been sorted out about a year ago. I haven’t had any more overheating problems since. I just never had the time to make a new grill. As for the overheat issues what I had done was: install the biggest diameter fan that would fit on the radiator that put out the most speced cfm, install a high flow water pump with a high flow pulley, put in a bigger expansion tank, make a shroud in the nose cone to direct all air into the radiator, and run the heater hose lines to the back of the car where I have an ancillary heat exchanger with fans. I’ve tested the car up to 90 degrees without anymore issues. The biggest issue came up during freeway driving. Having a lower geared rearend doesn’t help me. The engine stays at pretty high rpms while going 65 mph or more.


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PostPosted: January 29, 2019, 7:09 am 
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I highly recommend a liquid to liquid heat exchanger to make the cooling system more efficient/effective. The oil runs hotter than the coolant. Liquid to air needs thermostatic control for warm up. The svo 2.3l turbo sandwich cooler should fit, aids warm up of the oil and cools it to coolant temp. It will move the filter out by about 2 inches. This is a good deal. These are getting hard to find.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Modine-sandwic ... SwjwZcCCpT

If you don't have room at the block and/or think you need a cooler with more capacity and a remote filter, a number of oems have remote liquid to liquid exchangers with integral filter mounts. Most require a plate to be made to install AN8 fittings to accept AN8 flare to 1/2" push loc hose ends. Also need spin on adapter. Don't use a trans cooler since they add a restriction to the oil flow compared to a cooler designed for engine oil.

Here is a higher capacity cooler that you might have room for.https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-2015- ... k:100:pf:0 If the cooler sleeve od is large enough, cut the end off, sleeve with DOM that will fit inside the cooler and braze, then cut 3/4-16 female threads inside the end. Just need to shorten the dom end enough that it doesn't bottom out on the block before the seal clamps to the block (an old oil filter will provide the right depth). You'd need to use the filter for the cooler application of course.

For max cooling with warm up control, consider this thermostat controlled sandwich adapter and a small capacity liquid to air cooler with push loc an8 lines:https://www.ebay.com/itm/JEGS-51710-Thermostatic-Sandwich-Adapter/312302217309?epid=14012734190&hash=item48b6a9a85d:g:8kIAAOSwNUlb4fxT:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!30180!US!-1:rk:79:pf:0&LH_ItemCondition=1000

I'm guessing you have the 4.10 ratio. I suggest the 3.08 or 3.42 since you have no overdrive. MPG will go up, you will be easier to drive, and the cooling problem may correct itself since you are lowering the generated btus for any given speed.

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PostPosted: February 1, 2019, 12:22 pm 
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Joined: February 18, 2013, 9:37 am
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can you share the width of the rear outside tire to outside tire? I have a chevy camaro rear end and wondered about using it like you are. Mine has the provision for the torque arm though.


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PostPosted: February 1, 2019, 1:09 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
merim123 --

From my research notes:
Gen 1, 67-69 - 60"
Gen 2, 1970-1981 - 62.50"?
Gen 3 - 65". ?

I'll note that the modern F-body axles use rims with tons of backspace, meaning that the mounting surface is flush with the outside of the tire. So whether or not your F-body axle will work will be based (in part) on the rims you wish to use. What you'd pick up of course is a bigger potential supply of limited-slip diffs and rear disk brakes and the rest of the F-body ecosystem.

For me, when I was planning, I had to know the width of the rear end before I could figure out the rest of the frame's dimensions. My S10 is 54.25 between wheel mounting surfaces, which is perfect for a +221 chassis.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2019, 2:02 pm 
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Joined: January 12, 2012, 6:17 pm
Posts: 8
Andrew -

Big fan of your build, how does it drive? I'm in the design phase of my own 351c build, any words of wisdom you have?

351c, T5, Lincoln IRS, Mustang II

Rick


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