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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 22, 2015, 9:22 am 
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The pictures:

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tail light rough in 6.JPG
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Attachment:
fuel tank mount 4.jpg
fuel tank mount 4.jpg [ 322.36 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
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PostPosted: September 22, 2015, 2:06 pm 
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There. It's in.

Things fit, if only just barely.

The front of the tank, showing the clearance between the panhard and the tank cage:

Attachment:
fuel tank mount 5.JPG
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The rear/side of the tank...

Attachment:
fuel tank mount 6.JPG
fuel tank mount 6.JPG [ 350.41 KiB | Viewed 912 times ]

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PostPosted: September 28, 2015, 2:08 pm 
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It's a tough thing, going out and cutting a 6 1/2" hole in a panel you've been beating on for months...

I think my fuel door is gonna work out okay. More massaging needed, but so far so good.

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fuel door 1.jpg
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fuel door 2.jpg
fuel door 2.jpg [ 147.62 KiB | Viewed 887 times ]

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PostPosted: October 1, 2015, 9:36 pm 
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And sitting here waiting for final assembly...

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rear 30 sept 1.jpg
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rear 30 sept 2.jpg
rear 30 sept 2.jpg [ 183.63 KiB | Viewed 849 times ]

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PostPosted: October 18, 2015, 2:23 pm 
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Pedals.... starting to think about pedal placement. Which was caused when I started thinking about the firewall, which of course I need in order to hang the hood, which...

I am not sure I'm gonna have $400 (plus master cylinders) for a Wilwood setup (the Tilton seems to be $100 more?).

I'm looking at the donor car's pedals from a '95 Camaro. The clutch master cylinder's kinda off in outer space compared to where I'd mount it with Wilwood (it points down towards the bottom of the car).

The Gen 4 Camaros all came with power brakes as near as I can tell (all of the S-10's came with power brakes too, and the brakes are off of a S-10), but a good 1" GM manual brake MC should work here?


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PostPosted: October 18, 2015, 9:43 pm 
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Don't forget that Jack has cast aluminum pedals starting at 30 locost bucks ea. Very reasonable I think. Not sure he has a solution for dual masters, at least not on his website. Strangely enough, I haven't seen anyone use them yet.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2015, 1:07 am 
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Chuck, re the KV floor mount brake and clutch pedals, they're just single master*. I came up with those for the low-end Locosters (such as myself) who were using donor master cylinders, with or without proportioning valves. There's no question dual masters with adjustable bias bars is the way to go if you have the budget...which is why there's only about twenty of my pedals in the field, but they're out there all right--if you haven't seen them, maybe it's because it's dark down there in the driver's footwell.

*to clarify, each pedal is single master, but that's one master cylinder for the clutch and one for the brake. Google <dual brake master cylinder>for more info.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2015, 9:49 am 
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JackMcCornack wrote:
which is why there's only about twenty of my pedals in the field, but they're out there all right


There will probably be about 22 when this week is over. Although I'll probably use the Wilwood clutch MC 'cause the Camaro thing would be 2" into the ground, or 2" into the motor, if I used it.

Have you considered making a "kit" that uses your bits to make a Haynes foot pedal box? Which would simply have you doing a plasma CNC back plate etc to add to your pedals?

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PostPosted: October 19, 2015, 11:54 am 
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No problem Jack. I mentioned the dual master setup only in ref to Geeks's comparison of cost for the Wilwood and Tilton setups. I know someone must have used your pedals. I just didn't recall reading any write ups here. I don't think it would be too difficult for an individual to mod one of your pedals for use with dual masters and a bias bar.

Geek, glad to see you are going with the cast alum pedals. Maybe you could do a detailed write-up?

FWIW, I have one of those said donor single masters w/ proportioning valves. Definitely the way to go IMO for a Low Cost build. I made my pedals because I like the hanging pedals rather than the floor pivot. But each has their own preference. HINT: I glued coarse sandpaper cut from a used belt-sander belt on my pedals to keep my feet from sliding off. So far for 5 years, it has done its job.

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PostPosted: February 20, 2016, 6:18 pm 
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Beautiful weather outside, so I did some work on the Lalo.

This is where I realized that I can't use my OEM Camaro gauge cluster on this thing unless I want some sort of aero "bump" in front of the driver, or raise the scuttle by at least 5". Looking at photos of the Mk1, I see that the top 1/3 of the wheel was above the scuttle, with the gauges to either side.

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PostPosted: February 21, 2016, 3:34 pm 
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Not even 2" between the top of the steering column (as it's currently placed) and the top of the scuttle.

I see from the original Mk1 that the gauges were on either side of the steering column, so guess I'll have to explore that.

Attachment:
scuttle construction 21 Feb 2016.JPG
scuttle construction 21 Feb 2016.JPG [ 284.11 KiB | Viewed 577 times ]

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PostPosted: February 22, 2016, 8:28 am 
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geek49203 wrote:
This is where I realized that I can't use my OEM Camaro gauge cluster on this thing unless I want some sort of aero "bump" in front of the driver, or raise the scuttle by at least 5". Looking at photos of the Mk1, I see that the top 1/3 of the wheel was above the scuttle, with the gauges to either side.
Yo, Tim! Could you put the OEM cluster in the middle of the dash, maybe canted toward the driver a bit? The layout of the Panoz roadster dashboard comes to mind...
Wud dat werk???

:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: February 22, 2016, 8:42 am 
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Yup, might just work! Or at least I'll futz with my cardboard to see if it can?

I did a bit more looking at the original Lola Mk1 after I posted this, here is their layout. Obviously I'm now into a bit of 'glass, er, composite work?

I also note that the nose/fender/hood piece goes from the tip of the nose back to the dash on the original.

Attachment:
60_Lola_MK1_DV-07-AI_i01a.jpg
60_Lola_MK1_DV-07-AI_i01a.jpg [ 41.12 KiB | Viewed 543 times ]


Attachment:
lola-mk1-img5-200x133.png
lola-mk1-img5-200x133.png [ 71.45 KiB | Viewed 543 times ]

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PostPosted: February 22, 2016, 12:08 pm 
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geek49203 wrote:
I also note that the nose/fender/hood piece goes from the tip of the nose back to the dash on the original.
That it does. The original is a good bit smaller than ours. And like the variable-width nose and the separate rear fenders, adjustable scuttle length make it easy(er) to customize your body to your chassis instead of the other way around.

Tim, you're on such a roll that I'm unwilling to disturb it, but here's what I'm up to...

I'm not happy with how I did my own scuttle, or the scuttle kits I provided with the original Lalos (internal ribs and a sheet of fiberglass to bend over the ribs) so I've been working a pattern for molded scuttles. My own bodywork skills are so-so so I turned the finish over to a Genuine Bodyman. Here's how the pattern looks today:
Attachment:
ScuttlePlug.jpg
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This is the front side--the rear side is open, so it can be trimmed for length (18" is full length) and so it can be shipped fairly cheaply by nesting one half in the other (oh yeah, and it'll come in two halves so you can trim to width to fit).

The schedule is, pattern to the painter (for a finish coat they can polish and wax) on March 14, to the fiberglass shop on the 16th, molds finished the 28th and first finished scuttle popping out of the molds on the last day of March. I was going to put tha one on my own car, but I can wait for the second one if you want the first one.

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PostPosted: February 22, 2016, 12:27 pm 
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JackMcCornack wrote:
Tim, you're on such a roll that I'm unwilling to disturb it, but here's what I'm up to...


Oh now, I'm happily disturbed already, as evidenced by the fact that I'm building a full-bodied car from plans and bits that I bought "off of the Internet" as my first hot rod / welding project.... Feel free to join in!


JackMcCornack wrote:
The schedule is, pattern to the painter (for a finish coat they can polish and wax) on March 14, to the fiberglass shop on the 16th, molds finished the 28th and first finished scuttle popping out of the molds on the last day of March. I was going to put tha one on my own car, but I can wait for the second one if you want the first one.


I can wait a bit. I'm commuting weekly from Louisville to Austin, so it's not like I can hop out to the garage after work. So I'm a bit slower.

BTW... REQUEST FOR AN ENHANCEMENT.... would it be possible to add it a MK1-style "lift" or "bulge" for the instruments? I'm thinking maybe a "bubble" (aka hood scoop type thing?) that would be perhaps engineered for something like the Miata cluster, which should also be big enough (I think) for my Camaro cluster? Of all of the ways I can think of spending $800-ish on this thing, buying gauges isn't not high up on the list, ya know?

Tim

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