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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 19, 2015, 12:43 am 
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Location: Louisville KY
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That's a start I hope.

EDIT -- some more from this series....

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


Last edited by geek49203 on April 20, 2015, 10:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: April 20, 2015, 12:52 am 
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i don't see an idle air control?

there must be one as the a.c. running through the computer probably increases idle speed.

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PostPosted: April 20, 2015, 8:08 am 
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How about a cooling fan output?

How about EVAP Emission control output? (at least one of us has added such a device after-the-fact)

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PostPosted: April 20, 2015, 10:35 am 
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Location: Louisville KY
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Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: April 20, 2015, 10:47 am 
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Location: Louisville KY
Here are the 95 PMC wiring connects, I think. I once had a spreadsheet w/ this stuff compared to the OBD1 stuff, and I'm still looking for that.

******* Thanks! *****************

A is RED PCM connector.
B is BLACK PCM connector.
C is GREY/CLEAR PCM connector.
D is BLUE PCM connector.

Pinout Color Where it goes:

A2 blk/wht PCM Ground
A3 blk Injector #1 Control
A4 lt blu/blk Injector #4 Control
A5 yel/blk Injector #6 Control
A6 red/blk Injector #7 Control
A7 dk grn/wht Fuel Pump Relay Control
A9 gry EGR Vacuum Control Signal Solenoid Valve Ctrl
A10 dk blu Secondary Cooling Fan Relay Control
A11 dk grn Cooling Fan Relay Control
A12 tan/blk Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module
A13 wht TACH Output
A14 brn Air Pump Relay Control
A15 dk blu Performance Mode Indicator Lamp Control
A18 tan/wht PCM Ground
A19 lt grn/blk Injector #2 Control
A20 blk/wht Injector #5 Control
A21 pnk/blk Injector #3 Control
A22 dk blu/wht Injector #8 Control
A23 orn/blk Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module
A25 dk blu Fuel Enable Signal(Theft Detterant System)
A31 ppl VSS Ground
A32 yel VSS Signal
B1 dk grn/wht A/C Request Signal
B2 red/blk Low Resolution Signal
B3 pnk/blk Distributor Reference Low Signal
B5 wht Ignition Control
B6 blk A/C Evaporative Temperature Sensor
B6 blk A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
B6 blk TPS Ground
B6 blk Trans Fluid Temperature Sensor
B7 lt grn 1-2 Shift Solenoid Control
B8 dk grn/wht VSS Output
B12 yel/blk 2-3 Shift Solenoid Control
B13 gry Skip Shift Solenoid Control
B13 wht Control Solenoid
B14 red Distributor Ignition Feed
B15 orn PCM Battery
B16 blk MAP Ground
B19 yel MAF Sensor Signal
B20 ppl/wht OR lt blu/blk High Resolution Signal
B21 dk grn A/C Clutch Status
B28 gry 5v TPS Reference
B28 gry A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
B29 gry MAP 5v Reference
B30 pnk PCM Ignition Feed
B31 orn PCM Battery
C1 lt blu/wht IAC Coil
C2 lt blu/blk IAC Coil
C5 lt grn/blk IAC Coil
C6 lt grn/wht IAC Coil
C7 tan rt o2 Sensor h02s LOW
C8 ppl rt o2 Sensor ho2s HIGH
C11 lt blu Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module
C13 lt blu Performance Mode Switch Signal
C14 lt blu/blk Brake Signal
C15 orn/blk Park Nuetral Position Sensor(4L60E ONLY)
C16 red/blk Pressure Control Solenoid
C19 tan/wht lt o2 Sensor ho2s LOW
C20 ppl/wht lt o2 Sensor ho2s HIGH
C21 tan IAT Sensor Signal
C22 dk blu TPS Sensor Signal
C23 lt grn Map Sensor Signal
C25 yel ECT Sensor Signal
C28 pnk Trans Fluid Temperature Sensor
C29 dk blu Trans Fluid Temperature Sensor
C30 red Trans Fluid Temperature Sensor
C32 blk/wht PCM Ground
D1 tan/wht PCM Ground
D2 lt blu/wht Pressure Control Solenoid
D6 brn Torque Convertor Clutch Solenoid
D6 lt grn Reverse Inhibit Solenoid Control
D8 dk grn/wht A/C Clutch Relay Control
D9 brn/wht Malfunction Indicator Lamp
D10 dk grn/wht EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Control
D11 tan/blk Torque Convertor Clutch Solenoid
D12 red A/C Refrigerant Pressure Signal
D12 red/blk A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
D15 wht Skip Shift Lamp Control(T56/T5 ONLY)
D20 wht/blk Output Field Service Enable.
D22 dk blu Knock Sensor Signal
D24 dk blu A/C Evaporative Temperature Sensor
D24 dk blu A/C Evaporative Temperature Sensor Signal
D28 yel/blk Trans Fluid Temperature Sensor
D30 pnk PCM Ignition Feed
D30 tan Serial Data

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: May 22, 2015, 2:25 pm 
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
OK, Tim! I just had one of those face palm moments when I figured out who I was talking to all morning. I've been following your build off-and-on for a while now, primarily because of the Haynes chassis and the Lalo body! Somehow or other, your tunnel mods had escaped my memory. Senior moment i guess! Nice to get to know you a bit better.

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PostPosted: June 3, 2015, 9:52 pm 
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Location: Louisville KY
Okay, time for an update:

I spent today trying to get the rear bodywork hung. Once that is done I can hopefully mount the fuel tank, run fuel lines, get the e-brake figured out, start planning the side pods, etc.

I'm going with the reverse clam shell idea -- the trunk lid plus the two fenders will operate as a unit, hinging from the very back of the car, latching just behind the driver/passenger. There will be a sheet metal "Trunk bottom" under the fuel tank (keep the air from catching the fenders maybe?) but I don't think that the trunk area will ever be waterproof.

I decided this morning to cut off the bits that were the back of the Locost "boot" and just go with a pure Lalo rear configuration. Seems to make my life simpler. I then put a 1" square tube at the rear-most point in the "Kardashian" rear fender bits, held up with a couple more 1" square tubes, which will hold the hinge points.

Once I get the top sheet metal installed, I'll hold it down with a couple of aircraft latches that hopefully will be flush with the top of the trunk.

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: June 4, 2015, 1:29 am 
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Location: Oregon, usually
I like it. Milwaukee Jim did his similarly. I think it's a better system than mine, where the fender has to be removed from the car to do a tire change. I s'pose your (and Jim's) way, you can tilt the back open to put fuel in the tank too.

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PostPosted: June 4, 2015, 9:23 am 
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Location: Louisville KY
So now I am pondering that deep philosophical / theological question: Rivets?

I have to attach the Kardashians somehow. Jack had kindly provided some nice fancy screws to do that with the thought that I'd have to remove the pieces to change a tire. And of course I need to attach the top of the trunk. Seems to me that, whatever fasteners I use I'm probably setting myself up for the "look" of the car?

It seems to me that this is one area where a "kit car" is easily identifiable, 'specially if it has faux rivet bumps in the 'glass, or it just has a few rivets /screws when obviously more would be needed in an original construction.

- Smooth look: glue the Kardashians to the support (or hide the fasteners), glue/weld/hide fasteners for the trunk lid, etc. Smooth, clean look?

- Rivets (with a few screws): Would be appropriate for people approximating the aluminum construction, which would in turn kinda like like airplane construction.

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Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: June 5, 2015, 12:18 am 
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Those fenders are plenty thick enough to use countersunk rivets, which you could fill and paint over. If you glue...well, there are some spectacular urethane glues that will bond fiberglass to steel but it is -very important- that you sand the fiberglass down to a non-glossy (and non-greasy) surface before you attempt any bonding/laminating. 80 grit works fine (it's what I usually use for fiberglass surface prep) but many people go as rough as 36 grit (which I use sometimes when I'm feeling lazy).

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PostPosted: June 7, 2015, 12:03 am 
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My regrets for having dropped off of the face of the earth for a year, so maybe I missed a thread....

But has anyone tried fender liners of any sort for these bits? Or is it the conventional wisdom that I really don't need to worry about rocks and stuff doing damage to the composite fenders?

Thanks!

Tim

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: June 7, 2015, 9:29 am 
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Some of the guys have used spray-on bedliner with apparently good results.

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PostPosted: June 7, 2015, 9:38 am 
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My Lalo still has the traditional Locost body underneath (basically) so I didn't give it liners since the engine compartment was already protected...but I didn't think about fender damage from flying rocks. And on inspection, I see there hasn't been any fender damage from flying rocks on MAX so I'm still not going to think about that. However, my tires are decidedly non-sticky (Goodyear Assurance Mileage Max) so YMMV if you put slicks on.

However, I'm ready to rethink that fender liner thing because of rain. The front tires throw water over the top of the pontoons and it travels back to the cockpit. Since I'm working on making a weathertight (okay, weather resistant) cabin, I need to address that issue, and fender liners of some sort are on the list.

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PostPosted: June 7, 2015, 12:45 pm 
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JackMcCornack wrote:
However, I'm ready to rethink that fender liner thing because of rain. The front tires throw water over the top of the pontoons and it travels back to the cockpit. Since I'm working on making a weathertight (okay, weather resistant) cabin, I need to address that issue, and fender liners of some sort are on the list.


I was thinking of that weather tight thing on the trunk as well. I need to provide at least some ventilation 'cause the fuel tank (with fill spout) will be back there, but I really don't want to just leave the thing open to the axle/shocks area. If nothing else I'd love to keep most of the air out of the trunk area if I'm traveling at high speeds (last week was the anniversary of Bruce McLaren having is rear body bits come off of his car).

I'm also thinking of cutting up the hood a bit. Yeah, the does sound harsh? I'm thinking of extending the cowl, which would use the rear-ward foot or so of the hood to accomplish that. I'm also thinking of borrowing the '84 'Vette idea of having the lower half of the hood stationary, maybe also the very front of the hood. Thinking about it.

Tim

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Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: June 21, 2015, 7:14 pm 
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Just so you know I'm still working on it....

Attachment:
rear body work 21 Jun 2015.jpg
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Attachment:
rear body work 2 21 June 2015.jpg
rear body work 2 21 June 2015.jpg [ 212.47 KiB | Viewed 1122 times ]

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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