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PostPosted: October 11, 2018, 12:37 pm 
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Hood hinges from a 87 Buick Electra.

Hood comes forward, then tilts forward.

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
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PostPosted: January 3, 2019, 8:42 pm 
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okay, the hood hinges work. Not low weight but definitely low cost -- under $100 (I had to buy the entire Buick Electra hood).

This doesn't look like much, but note that the hood is set up so it's almost perpendicular AND the nose isn't touching the ground. Okay, there is lumber under it on this photo 'cause I later had to strengthen the mounting points. But when finished, yes, the hood tilts way forward w/o the nose rubbing the ground.

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Here is the underside of the hinges. Note the metal bits that I used to attach them to the frame. Eventually I'll add springs to help the hood open / keep it open.

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This is the second part -- the bits that attach the rear of the hood to the cowl. Cut off of the hood, and still in need of downsizing, but at least I know that the hood will be securely attached in the rear.

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: January 3, 2019, 8:56 pm 
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So now fitting the rest of the hood....

This is how the hood sits now. Some notes:

1. The construction paper on the windshield marks the area of windshield that will remain when I make my first try at chopping a top. Gonna cut out 7" (insert jokes here) which might make it more like the original late 50's curvy cars.

2. The hood comes back to roughly 8" forward of the windshield, where surprisingly the Miata firewall was. Strange how that happened. The bits that I cut off of the end of Jack's doghouse now make the beginning of the cowl covering. You'll note that the cowl cover won't touch the windshield -- I have to have windshield wipers due to local requirements. There will be mesh under that where I'll put the air intake, wipers, battery, etc etc.

3. The motor doesn't stick up as much as I (and Jack) feared. The original Lola MK1 had the doghouse bottom level w/ the wheel hubs, and I'm some 9" higher than that. But the front of the nose is flush with the bottom of the frame, so that can't go lower. And if I lower the rear of the nose section then the motor will just stick out more -- might as well hide the wipers I guess.


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And here is the rear of the cowl covering as it sits tonight -- notice that I'll have to fill in some really complicated shapes here. Fortunately, Jack's kit came with a cowl that can be, uh, modified to provide the corner bits that I need.

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: January 4, 2019, 6:46 am 
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Check out my responses on the alt brkt design here: viewtopic.php?f=36&t=15693&start=60

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PostPosted: January 4, 2019, 9:14 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Check out my responses on the alt brkt design here: https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewto ... 3&start=60


Dang... I owe you bigtime! Tons of time and thought for little ole Liberal Arts grad me! Thanks!

BTW, what alternator is that?

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Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 3:39 pm 
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On a roll here... some pics of the cowl / scuttle / dash area. Pretty sure this isn't how Jack envisioned this, but I'm having some fun trying out some ideas.

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There is about 23" between the back of the dash / end of wind screen and the start of the rear pontoon "Kardashian".

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: January 8, 2019, 7:57 am 
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Yo Tim!
Nice progress on the hood/bodywork there, Bro...

Speaking of alternator brackets: I've been looking for a picture to show you, can't find one. Can't take one because I'm not at home this week... But, for the upper alternator mount on my car, the one that adjusts the belt tension, I used a big turnbuckle from Ace Hardware. I put a jam nut on the RH threaded end and some large washers on either "eye" and bolted that thang to the water pump mounting point and the upper "ear" on the alternator. Turn the center of the buckle to get the belt tight, run the jam nut down on the buckle and *POOF* alternator mount.

For the lower bracket, I used aluminum angle, tubing for spacers, some long all-thread rod and three or four nuts. It ain't real purty, but it works. I'll try to get a picture of that part soon as well. (Actually, I painted it green, so it is kinda purty! :mrgreen: )

MV8's br^cket designs are nice work, and they'd do the job perfectly... But I can be back from the hardware store and have the alternator mounted in about 15 minutes. :mrgreen:

As always, my .02, but for you, NO CHARGE!
:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: January 8, 2019, 11:21 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo Tim!
Nice progress on the hood/bodywork there, Bro...

Speaking of alternator brackets: I've been looking for a picture to show you, can't find one. Can't take one because I'm not at home this week... But, for the upper alternator mount on my car, the one that adjusts the belt tension, I used a big turnbuckle from Ace Hardware. I put a jam nut on the RH threaded end and some large washers on either "eye" and bolted that thang to the water pump mounting point and the upper "ear" on the alternator. Turn the center of the buckle to get the belt tight, run the jam nut down on the buckle and *POOF* alternator mount.

For the lower bracket, I used aluminum angle, tubing for spacers, some long all-thread rod and three or four nuts. It ain't real purty, but it works. I'll try to get a picture of that part soon as well. (Actually, I painted it green, so it is kinda purty! :mrgreen: )

MV8's br^cket designs are nice work, and they'd do the job perfectly... But I can be back from the hardware store and have the alternator mounted in about 15 minutes. :mrgreen:

As always, my .02, but for you, NO CHARGE!
:cheers:
JDK


While the RH jam nut certainly addresses the "loosening" concern, I'd recommend looking for LH jam nut to prevent the LH threads from wearing the threads out from constantly beating back and forth on them.

This is a long term reliability consideration than a "need to function" issue.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2019, 5:44 pm 
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Yeah, Chuck is right... That reminds me to look up a LH jam nut for the alternator mount...
:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: January 23, 2019, 3:28 pm 
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Haven't gotten to fix the alternator mount yet... but still working on it.

Pics of roughing in the dash / firewall so I can move the wiring off of the floor (looks like a birds nest, or some electronic old barfed a wire pellet).

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Attachment:
fixed 20190123_131148.jpg
fixed 20190123_131148.jpg [ 173.53 KiB | Viewed 940 times ]

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: January 24, 2019, 1:06 am 
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I just noticed the hood hinges. They look perfect for your application. And they ought not to bend if the wind catches the hood while it's up. I've seen that happen to drag cars with fiberglass or carbon fiber hoods, and the owner tried to shave even more weight from the hinge hardware.


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PostPosted: February 4, 2019, 3:23 pm 
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Okay, I need help here w/ some DD's.

(pause).

The steering shaft coming out of the 90's Chevy column is 1" on the round part, and .75" on the flat part. DD. I note that the Camaro donor had a rag junction which, I presume, took it from 1" DD to .75" dd or something. And then another u-joint en route to its destination.

The destination, with a bit of a bend, mocked up for 2, 13" legs, is an APPLETON (edited) steering rack, DEFINITELY .75" and 48 splines.



QUESTIONS:

1. .75" DD is pretty much the standard, correct? I need to have that first U joint by the steering column take it from 1" to .75"

2. I hear that the maximum for a U-joint bend is 35 degrees. Got it. What are the rules for one of those rose joint shaft supports?

3...... There are some things where you don't want to spend low bucks. Birth control devices come to mind. Aside from shiny finish and brand name, what are the differences between a $30 u-joint and a $100 u-joint?

Thanks!

G'03, liberal arts and seminary grad...

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


Last edited by geek49203 on February 5, 2019, 1:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2019, 8:39 pm 
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Another std is 5/8-36 spline. That is what was on my Rx7 IIRC and what I kept for my Locost. With such a light car, I don't think you need the larger dia for the strength. FYI, I bought a few parts from:

https://www.dansperformanceparts.com/of ... hafts.html

You might want to check them out to see if they have what you need. They worked just fine for me.

A cardan joint (double u-joint) will get you more than 35 deg if you need to.

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PostPosted: February 6, 2019, 8:13 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:


I can't raise those folks. Phone calls go to VM and email has gone unanswered. Definitely good prices tho. If you have any way to contact them please feel free to let them know I'm trying to reach them.

Thanks!

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: February 7, 2019, 12:07 am 
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Tim, IIRC, I just selected my items and paid on line. No direct personal contacts were made.

Chuck

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