LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently March 28, 2024, 4:42 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 58 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: January 10, 2010, 12:55 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
I am a little late Jack told me to do this a long time ago. I am going to work on getting this log caught up to where I am on the project. I will skip over a lot of the routine parts of the project that would be repeating what I have seen in other build logs. This build was loosely “based” on the Haynes book, I really did not like the look of the Haynes rear though so I figured that out on my own. I will try to remember to include some of my specific challenges in using the 2.3 Ford T-bird power plant, some of which I am still dealing with. I started my build in late October of 2008. It was drivable in August, I even had temporary tags, unfortunately I was contacted by the state and told not so fast we got some more questions for you. I went back and forth for a couple of months and was just about to re-think my registration strategy when they finally conceded. Which is about the time our weather turned bad and the rain started. It is now January of 2010 and while it is not really finished I have been doing a lot of driving, just to work out the bugs of course. I am planning on gradually putting in my photos sequentially although if anyone who is planning or using a similar set-up has question I have not gotten to don’t be shy. Sorry for not warning anyone when I posted my crushed finger picture I did not mean to gross anyone out too much. Here is a picture of the first stage of my build. This part was extremely exciting for me, it went fast and I had not done done anything like this for years, I had a blast. I want to close by thanking other posters in this forum for letting me lurk about and learn from their builds.

I am not sure if the picture is going to come through or not having challenges with the size


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 10, 2010, 5:08 pm 
Offline

Joined: January 14, 2009, 2:24 am
Posts: 505
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Here you go:


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 11, 2010, 10:32 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
Here is a picture a little further along. Rear end and spindles attached with tubing doing stand in for the shocks on order at that point. As I'm sure everyone else had to the rear-end required a lot of cutting and grinding. All of the brackets had to come off and be ground before I could fabricate new ones. I was going to use a rear out of the 88 mustang I got the T-5 from, but I came across a bronco II with 3.73's and a limited slip for $98 at the U-Pullit and could not pass it up for some reason. In hindsight the 3.73s are pretty low for the power to weight. Overall I have been pretty good on the budget, the two outliers have been the coilovers and the front brakes. I got in a hurry and did not think through the fact that I could have used Granada hubs and calipers pretty cheap instead of the WW, but they are nice and light now that I have them. The lower A-arms on the front were fabricated out of 3/4" 0.120 DOM tuning. Tapping them was quite a bit of work, my tap handle was not very long and after doing them my palms were pretty bruised. In putting together the front suspension I went for 9 degrees of caster driving the car now this was a good choice steering effort is perfect and self centering is good.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 15, 2010, 10:28 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
Still trying to figure out picture uploads an my MAC. If this works it will be some pictures of my rear axle work. I decided to cut some of the webbing on the axle as well as the really think lower portion. I doubt it will reduce the strength enough to have any impact given it's stout construction. It is a 7.5 Ford LSD out of a Broncho II. After cutting and grinding the old mounting hardware off, I doubt I will ever get all of the metal fillings out of my shop.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 15, 2010, 2:01 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: September 27, 2006, 11:12 am
Posts: 349
Location: Darboy, WI
Craig, nice work! Is the pinion centered on the axle?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 16, 2010, 2:19 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
Ross,
It is offset to the passenger side which works out OK since I had the engine offset a little as well. I think it is about 1-1.5" off if I remember correctly. I offset the engine to give me a little more room for my feet and pedals. Unfortunately I made my transmission tunnel before I decided on a T-5 trans so I ended up needing to add two tubes on the outside of the front end of the tunnel notch my tubing so the starter would clear.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 16, 2010, 12:53 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
Here are a couple more pictures about four months into the project Feb-09'. I still have never had the use of an engine hoist. To get the engine placed I lifted the frame over it and set it down. If anyone remembers my crushed finger pictures that is what happens when the motor slides off the side of the jack when I am getting things aligned. You can see how high the throttle body is above the motor going over the valve cover. Initially I ran it that way but there was no way I was going to get a hood to fit and I did not want to have a huge scoop. I fabricated an intake plenum to bring it lower and point the throttle body forward. I started thinking about doing a complete intake for it which I may in the future but I was did not have the equipment to do a decent job of cutting out a plate and bungs for the injectors. I may consider it when I pull the car apart to paint the frame. This is the point where I spent a lot of time jumping up and down on the frame like a little kid and watching the suspension work.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 16, 2010, 8:57 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 26, 2008, 5:35 pm
Posts: 321
Location: Floreeduh
Can you post some pics of the intake you fabricated? I'll need to do something similar.

_________________
"Patience is something you admire in the driver behind you and scorn in the one ahead. "
Mac McCleary


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 17, 2010, 12:51 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
Tim,
Here are the few photos I have. I essentially cut out two plates from roughly 1/4 inch stock one to mate to the manifold and one to make to the throttle body. I have seen really nice rotated manifolds that are cut gutted and rotated but they were still too tall for my hood. I only had a rough guess of exactly what I wanted when I started and kind of improvised. What I never took a picture of is a small piece of metal that I used as a radius on the inside as a small hump to make the bottom transition less abrupt. For the main body I used 16 gauge sheet. Make sure you check your clearance for the manifold bolts so you can get them in OK. Also for the throttle body bolts I tacked bolts on the inside instead of tapping. Let me know if you have more questions. The yellow is kind of loud but I am trying to figure out how I'm going to do the engine when I pull this thing apart to paint the frame. Sorry I don't have more photos on the fabrication but I think you can figure it out from the finished picture.

The second photo is misleading, all but about an inch of the sheet metal ends up getting chopped off when I fab the upper section. I started the upper section with a sheet the correct width tacked it to my TB plate and hand bend a nice radius, then did the sides and last the bottom.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 19, 2010, 12:46 am 
Offline

Joined: December 24, 2006, 3:32 pm
Posts: 226
Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Craig,
Very nice!!! Since I'm about to commit sizes on my 2.3Turbo Ford/T-5 tranny tunnel, would you please make a couple of measurements for me?
1) Could you measure the width of the (2) vertical "H" tubes on either side of your bellhousing??
2) How far back do you have the engine sitting?? Maybe a measurement from the cam cover to the horizontal "Q" tube at the firewall/footbox area??
Will "attempt" to attach a pix of my plenum as constructed.
Thanks,
Don
Attachment:
Dons Manifold.jpg


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 19, 2010, 10:58 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
Don,
Your plenum looks amazing, I assume it is aluminum, I would really like to see a picture when you are done! I will try to remember to get you those measurements tonight or tomorrow. Here is a picture of what happens when you don't fit all of the parts together. I had to weld in two additional tubes and notch then box the original tubes so my starter would clear. Not my happiest moment on the car. If I used the transmission I was planning before a Ford Fog 4-speed out of a Pinto (instead of a T-5) I would not have had to notch the tubing. Craig


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 20, 2010, 9:37 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
Don,
My engine surface sits 2.75 inches away from the crossmember, the trans surface is about 1.5 inches front it. The upper trans to engine bolts are pretty much at the same level as the crossmember. My basic dimensions were from the Haynes book. The width of the transmission tunnel is 15.25" at the point where I notched my tunnel to make my starter clear, this is the width it should have been. The width at the top of the tunnel is 14.5". the oilpan sit about 1.5-2 inches below the frame I may shorten cut and shorten the pan a little but so far I have not hit anything.

It would have been nice to have the motor lower than it is if possible. I got a haynes nose through Jack at Kinetic, unfortunately I had to bend up small aluminum spacers to raise the nose about an inch, so I must have had my engine mounted higher then Haynes when he did his.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 20, 2010, 9:58 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 26, 2008, 5:35 pm
Posts: 321
Location: Floreeduh
Craig,

I had the same issue with my engine. I ended up stretching the nose 1" higher. Allows for more space up front for the radiator. I think cooling will be a bit of a challenge for this motor.

Dale Knapke has a TR-6 that he put a 2.3T in that makes nearly 450HP. He came up with some innovative ideas that are similar to what you put together.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I may go with a similar intake idea. Do you have an intercooler?

_________________
"Patience is something you admire in the driver behind you and scorn in the one ahead. "
Mac McCleary


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 20, 2010, 10:15 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
I don't have an intercooler yet but was planning on it. Right now I have really high tech black PVC pipe running from my turbo to the throttle body. I am surprised I have not melted it yet, but have not had enough road to run real boost for more than a few seconds. After about 5-6 seconds I am going pretty darned fast. Another plug for everyone finish your cars so you can drive them! If you are not driving something like this you have no clue how much fun they are. BTW today, I had one of those nice Charger police cars pull a screeching U-turn when I went by (I just knew they were going to pull me over) follow me for about a mile (probably long enough to run the plate), pull up beside me, give a thumbs up and turn off.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 20, 2010, 10:34 pm 
Offline
The voice of reason
User avatar

Joined: January 10, 2008, 4:47 pm
Posts: 7652
Location: Massachusetts
Quote:
BTW today, I had one of those nice Charger police cars pull a screeching U-turn when I went by (I just knew they were going to pull me over) follow me for about a mile (probably long enough to run the plate), pull up beside me, give a thumbs up and turn off.


Maybe they just liked your car and couldn't believe it was legal. I think screeching u-turns are probably one of the perks in that job. :)

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 58 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 42 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
POWERED_BY