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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 10, 2014, 7:22 pm 
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Joined: June 24, 2013, 11:48 pm
Posts: 67
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Hi Perry,
I would think the 4 row rad should do the trick. I run a 3 row 65 Mustang alum rad on my 5.0 Locost. In the south Alabama heat I've never seen anything above 205f in bumper to bumper traffic. I run one 16" pusher fan pushing 2600cfm supposidly. We are currently on a road trip in our 7 and I did see 215f climbing up to the state park at Mt Nebo Arkansas but it cooled right off when I reached the top. That was pulling a 500lbs trailer.

BTW....That's a great looking car.

Steve


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PostPosted: June 10, 2014, 11:58 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Hey Steve
Thanks the kind of info I like to hear. I just ordered a 2500 cfm pusher tonight. That and the 4 row aluminum core should do the trick. I under estimated the requirements for cooling on this build. The rad is back ordered should get it by the end of June. Oh well, live and learn.

Thanks Gar, email me a pattern. I'll get the specs on the Lexan when I get home and let you know how thick it is. Wouldn't take nothing to mail them to you.

Hey Al, Killam is about 1/2 drive from my place. They have a sign coming into town that says something like 'Welcome, Drive Safe, Killam'

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: June 19, 2014, 12:36 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Received the Champion aluminum rad and 2500CFM fan today. 4 hours later it was installed. Poor weather here, kind of drizzly. Have to wait for a test drive to see if the larger rad solves the problem. I am most confident it will, when I removed the 68 Stang rad and took a good look in the filler neck the tubes that I can see are plugged with brown crud. This was supposed to be a new rad. I'll have to get it dipped and will be able to use it for the next build.

Now for news that makes this all worth while. I received my appraisal today.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: June 19, 2014, 12:45 am 
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Location: san francisco bay area
Might not be a bad idea to flush out the cooling jacket and/or run a coolant filter for a while.

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For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett


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PostPosted: June 21, 2014, 12:39 am 
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oldejack wrote:
Might not be a bad idea to flush out the cooling jacket and/or run a coolant filter for a while.

The coolant is new and clear. The problem came with the new copper core rad.

I'm happy to say the wifey and I put on 145 kms today with no heat issues.

I guess that concludes this build log.

Over the top...
Attachment:
img1285.jpeg


From the side...
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img1284.jpeg


What a ride...
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img1283.jpeg


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: June 24, 2014, 9:30 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
:thmbsup:

Cool deal, Perry. That's a pretty fat and happy smile on your face in that photo.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 24, 2014, 10:11 pm 
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Wow! Beautiful... Just beautiful. The car, I mean...
Congrats, Perry! Very well done!
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: February 13, 2015, 2:54 am 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
This winter I ordered some prescription goggles with photo gray auto tinting, hope it improve the way I look.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: April 4, 2015, 8:57 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Hi Perry,

I've revisited your #2 build to look at your scuttle and hood. I'm really not satisfied with my fiberglass scuttle. I don't want to create a new sub-project, but it just looks and feels cheesy and I remember liking yours a lot.

I have some questions for you if you don't mind.

1) Did you use the same templates for the scuttle on the #2 build as you did on the #1 build?

The first entry I found here was on about page 17. I didn't revisit your#1 build and the answer to the questions above and below may lie there.

2) Did you shape your scuttle to fit and be compatible with your fiberglass nose shape, or did you just pick a shape you liked and hope you could blend the hood to match up with each end (scuttle and nose) when you formed it?

3) Did you use radii and shapes from one of the Locost books to determine your scuttle, or make them up yourself?

4) I see your 5.0L is mounted lower than my V6, but it is very tall too (like my V6) and your hood clears it without problem. Is that coincidental or did you make you scuttle tall enough to clear the EFI manifold by design?

5) How many hours do you think it took you do design, form and fab your scuttle and hinged hood?

I've got a little time to think about it, and make a decision about making my own scuttle, but I'm leaning towards doing it on an emotional level. On the other hand, I have a long list of things left to do and that's what's keeping me from jumping in without understanding what's involved better.

Thanks in advance,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: April 5, 2015, 11:37 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
1) Did you use the same templates for the scuttle on the #2 build as you did on the #1 build?


In a way yes, I have a plywood "form" so to say of the scuttle that I use to Cleco the pieces of the scuttle frame to for welding. EDIT - See page 13 of my first build to see how I cleco the metal to the form. Once I have all the pieces tacked up I remove the clecos and take the form away from the metal scuttle.
Attachment:
IMG688.jpg

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IMG689.jpg

Attachment:
img1101.jpeg

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img1119.jpeg


Lonnie-S wrote:
2) Did you shape your scuttle to fit and be compatible with your fiberglass nose shape, or did you just pick a shape you liked and hope you could blend the hood to match up with each end (scuttle and nose) when you formed it?


Lonnie-S wrote:
3) Did you use radii and shapes from one of the Locost books to determine your scuttle, or make them up yourself?


Both, it took a lot of eyeballing and shaping the plywood form for the look that I wanted. I ran string from the nose to the rear of the scuttle form to determine the proper aspect of the front scuttle form. I also sloped the sides in a bit for looks. I used the same form for both previous builds, I just adjust the width for the frame. Can't really remember using any info from the books.

Lonnie-S wrote:
4) I see your 5.0L is mounted lower than my V6, but it is very tall too (like my V6) and your hood clears it without problem. Is that coincidental or did you make you scuttle tall enough to clear the EFI manifold by design?


I adjusted the scuttle height to clear the intake. I also had increased the height of the frame by 2" to accommodate the taller engine. I also did this on my current build. On all 3 builds the engines sit 1" lower than the frame. I've had no problems so far with the first 2 builds and I've gone over some good speed bumps in parking lots, just take them at an angle.

Lonnie-S wrote:
5) How many hours do you think it took you do design, form and fab your scuttle and hinged hood?


If I were to guess I'd say 2 weeks (80hrs) more or less, the end result - priceless

Remember, you are in control of your own build. You can differ from the book. A lot of the way I build the pieces like the scuttle, the tunnel, and hinged hood is to blend it all together so it "looks" right, that's the secret. On my current build, I adjusted the front frame width to fit the steering rack and the wide mouth nose. This is based on a lot of people commenting on how they like the wide nose look as compared to the narrow nose on my first build.
As long as it's built so that it looks like it should have been built that way wins every time, even though the proportions vary from the books.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: April 6, 2015, 11:07 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Thanks very much for taking the time to post the photos and info, Perry. It's much appreciated.

Best,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 9, 2015, 12:26 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Well I decided to put the 3rd build aside for now and continue on with building a rag top for the Super 7 L.S.O.
I am tagging it on this build instead of starting a separate build thread.
Framed up a profile of the top to get an idea of form. I'll be using 3/4" tubing for the 2 bows. Will be using a wood header across the windshield top frame. Side windows will be similar to what I had on my boat, they will be zippered in along the rag top and snap or Velcro along the bottom.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: June 16, 2015, 11:15 pm 
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Posts: 2394
Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Picked up some oak wood for the header rail. Traced out windshield and started making saw dust. Just a couple of pics. The rail has a step in it, contact points will be top and front of aluminum frame.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: June 18, 2015, 12:15 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Out to the shop for a bit tonight. Made some saw dust shaping the oak header rail. Have it rough shaped.
Attachment:
photo 6.JPG

Attachment:
photo 7.JPG


When I build the windshield stanchions I welded 1/4" posts to them in the event I ever fabbed a rag top.
Attachment:
photo 4.JPG


There will be an aluminum block bolted to the header that slips over the 1/4" post on each stanchion. I'll fab a wing nut bolt to thread into the block to lock it on the post.
Attachment:
photo 5.JPG


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: June 18, 2015, 8:28 pm 
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Yo, Perry!
Good lookin' wood work you got there, Sir!
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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