LocostUSA.com

I think the other car is Paul Bolton from Phantom Engineering in Pemberton (formerly of North Van and the Sunshine Coast). I recall seeing his car at the Vancouver ABFM a few years ago.

Hey Kristian,
there is always next year.
Rod, you are correct. That is Paul's 7; he lives up here now and his shop is out in the Industrial Park. He did a couple of parts for me during my build. He's a great guy. You may also know his friend Bob, next to him; his is a MG with a Ford 302. Very nice build and was by far my show favourite.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

I thought that might have been Bob Elwin's MGC. Bob built a clubmans car while growing up in NZ, I think he told me it's still racing down there. Next time I run into him I'll see if he has any pictures of it.

I just finished my trailer in time to put it away for the winter But it was a busy summer, giving rides in the 7 and finishing a bunch of home projects. I wanted a small trailer, that can be towed behind the Minivan and loading had to be a one man operation. My driver, the primadonna, likes to pull in, takes off his helmet and hands me the keys; "You put it away", while he saunters off to chat with the girls. I should just fire him.
I didn't want a drive-on trailer with ramps, especially with the R1 clutch being a bit of a trigger. So I built a drop axle without suspension, that gives me about 9" of deck height. With the jack I can lower the tail until it bottoms and then hand winch the car on. It is easy, stable and uncomplicated. I'll be making some removable panels for the centre section, and then be able to use it as an utility trailer for around the house. I still have to make some anchor points, but the idea is to not tie down the car, but rather the wheels, and let the suspension be free to move.
This little trailer is in its fourth re-incarnation. It started out as a tent trailer that I found for $100, stripped it and built an airplane trailer. Cut off that tow bar, and it became an utility trailer. Then cut off the axle, traded that for a nice pair of coil-overs for the sidecar build, and used up the old Mazda's snow tires. Just warms the cockles of my Locost heart.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Looks nice.

I would like more info/photos on your building of the drop axle please. is it strong enough to prevent the wheels from bending the axle over time? ....Tying the wheels down is the only way to go IMO, especially with no trailer suspension.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks, Chuck.
The uprights I made from 3x3 x 3/16, into which I welded a sleeve for the stub axle (I believe they are rated for 2,500 lbs each). The sleeve is welded into both sides, while the axle is plug welded into the sleeve, and then also welded on the inside of the upright. The axle was my original tow bar for the airplane trailer; I stitch welded two 1.5 x 3 x 0.125 and it is very stiff. The axle is welded to the upright, which also received a cap. The outer rail, which is the main load bearing one, is also 1.5 x 3 x 0.125. It was welded to the axle as well as the upright, further tying it all together. I made everything extra strong to account for the lack of suspension; the fender brackets are 1 x 2 x 0.125

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

It tows well with all the engine weight behind the axles?

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

It looks deceiving, but between the roll cage and rear end, there is more weight ahead of the axle, than behind. Don't forget, the R1 engine is only slightly heavier than the rear end. I haven't weighed it, but the tongue weight looks to be around 150 to 200 lbs, or so my back says. I placed the axle to give me the most rear overhang, without getting the rig out of balance.
I have only towed it empty, and it is lively, but not any worse than some stiffly sprung trailers I've pulled. The tire pressures can be adjusted according to the mission, and as it appears that a new couch must be its first payload, I'll lower it accordingly.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

I scaled my R1 Locost which is similar to yours. With driver it was right around 60% rear weight, so I am guessing you have it pointed the right direction on the trailer.

_________________
-Jeff

Project Seven
Instagram: @RexRacer19

Looks good. 150 lbs tongue weight should be plenty. Mine is under 100 and it tows fine behind a car or mini van. Definitely nice to not have to deal with ramps and a massive trailer when hauling a locost.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

I had wanted to revisit the exhaust, since the Supertrapp was still too loud; probably a sign of my advanced age. A friend gave me a nice can from a 600 cc sport bike (probably an earlier R6) that looked like a good choice. Unfortunately the bends were all in the wrong direction, and it was too long. Eventually I just grabbed the angle grinder and started cutting. In true bike fashion, a lot of engineering went into this. There is a perforated inner pipe (titanium), layers of baffle material, and then the shiny outer pipe, which I presumed to be stainless. After a lot of filing and fitting, I struck up the TIG, and was ready to do some nice stainless tigging (no worries, Briggs. I'm a long ways behind you.) After a good start, things went to hell in a handbasket in a hurry. The weld cracked faster than I could advance the puddle. Well, wouldn't you know. The outer pipe is titanium as well.
After some research, I knew I was in trouble. Back purging, dry room filler rod storage, post flow of 22 seconds and on and on. I don't even know where to get titanium filler rod, nor would I want to pay for it. Just as I was about to chuck the piece, I took the grinder to it once more, and lo and behold, my first little weld that I did without filler, was solid. Hmmm???
So back to filing and fitting (about 6 hrs in total), I went at it again. Stitched it 3/8 at a time, keeping it in the gas flow, cooling it slowly; it took me nearly an hour to work all the way around. And it seems to hold. I didn't take a hammer test to it, but with a good support, it may just stay together. And what a good support structure I found. Good planning on my part, no doubt.
So far I'm thrilled with the sound, now for some WOT testing.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Titanium now, eh Martin? You're definitely moving up the technological ladder.

Your story reminds me of a metal sculptor I saw at an exhibition at U.C. Berkeley years ago. He found all these novel ways to join various metals in his sculptures by "welding" (a very general term in the context of his pieces) that, in theory, shouldn't work. He just kept experimenting, and finally found success. Sometimes there's an advantage to being naive about things. You don't fail because you're "too dumb" to know you should.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Nicely done. Its surprising how many stock sportbike exhausts have titanium in them.

A few of us were playing around with welding titanium several years ago. We found some sheet laying around the shop and cut it into thin strips to make filler rod. Not sure I'd trust it as filler for anything structural but it was good enough for goofing around.

How is the trailer axle holding up?

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Thanks, guys.
Sometimes it pays to experiment. I wouldn't want to attempt something structural, but if the exhaust fails, it will be not be much more than an embarrassment.
So today, I put the insurance back on, and in-between rain squalls, the girls got a quick ride. What a difference; wow! More torque, better throttle response, and a sound that is just music. I'm a bit kicking myself, for thinking that I knew better, and just doing my own thing. It just proves, that a lot of very skilled people, make these engines work, and it doesn't pay to second guess them. So my advise for future aspirants of a BEC, stay as close to stock as you can. It does work best.
Andrew,
the trailer, and the axle, are working well. Although I haven't done any long hauls, it pulls nice locally, and after building some removable panels to use it as a yard trailer, it has been getting some good use. Hopefully, I'll be able to do a couple of track days, now that my exhaust is approaching the legal limit. In the meantime, the girls had a go at it. Good thing I only give them sidewalk chalk; spray cans are way off limit.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

A little update on a project that I had been fiddling with the last little while.
I was unhappy with the hydraulic, inline brake switch. Not knowing any of its design parameters (basic switch from Speedway), it required a lot of pedal pressure to become activated. Maybe in an assisted system it would be more sensitive, but I had to stomp on the pedal for the lights to come on. So I wanted to go to a mechanical switch, but with the floor mounted pedal that became a bit of an exercise. I tried a motorcycle rear switch, but it was hard to keep everything out of the way. So here is my solution; the switch had to be as short as possible, protected from feet and be adjustable. I made a sturdy bracket that also acts as a heel rest, and used a switch from a '76 Renault (lucky find on Ebay). Rene Arnoux approved.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"