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PostPosted: January 30, 2017, 8:49 am 
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The holes sizes drilled were all the same size and placement kept symmetrical (3 even sections). There are 9 mounting holes which secure it to the flywheel, they create 3 lines directly through the center of the pressure plate. When balancing the plate across those holes it appears to be evenly balanced.

There is a machine shop in town so I may get it all balanced one the flywheel is attached. I may also get them to Tig weld my home made baffle.

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PostPosted: January 30, 2017, 5:19 pm 
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turbo_bird wrote:
I've thought many times I'd like to lose some weight from my pressure plate as well, but never though of lightening the one I have. Are you able to balance it after the lightening?
Kristian


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PostPosted: February 6, 2017, 8:25 am 
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The new brakes worked great and really gave me confidence slowing the car down. I tweaked the ride hight to reduce the rake. This almost eliminated the oversteer issues I have been having. Which caused me to recalibrate my driving to account for the extra grip.

I think overall I got a solid 1 second improvement on the field. With FTD by about a second and only 2.7 seconds back in Pax (Previously around 4 seconds back).

This was my first run with a passenger which was good enough for FTD. I gained about a second on my last run. I had a rerun due to a guy who didn't "run" for a cone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3xVPx522z8

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PostPosted: February 8, 2017, 4:08 pm 
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I'm assuming the baffle is aluminum?

Idiot course worker!

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PostPosted: February 8, 2017, 8:16 pm 
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Yes aluminium baffle. Still not sure how to secure it. I messed with my spool gun for a couple of hours the other day and decided it is junk. I am never going to be able to weld aluminium correctly when the wire does not come out at the right speed and then as soon as it makes contact with the metal it jams the gun as the wire pops of the motor. JB weld might work either that or get the Machine shop to do it.

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PostPosted: February 9, 2017, 5:45 am 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
Yes aluminium baffle. Still not sure how to secure it. I messed with my spool gun for a couple of hours the other day and decided it is junk. I am never going to be able to weld aluminium correctly when the wire does not come out at the right speed and then as soon as it makes contact with the metal it jams the gun as the wire pops of the motor. JB weld might work either that or get the Machine shop to do it.


I would say send it my way but I'm still not as comfortable as I want to be with aluminum.

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PostPosted: February 9, 2017, 8:09 am 
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Your spool gun problem might be due to incorrect wire feed speed. I had similar problems welding steel, the damn thing was like a tattoo gun. BAM BAM BAM! Slowed the feed way down and it does a beautiful job.

Bill


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PostPosted: February 9, 2017, 8:22 am 
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BBlue wrote:
Your spool gun problem might be due to incorrect wire feed speed. I had similar problems welding steel, the damn thing was like a tattoo gun. BAM BAM BAM! Slowed the feed way down and it does a beautiful job.

Bill


What he said! If you look up the wire info from the manufacturer on the web, they will have all of the basic parameters for that wire. Wire feed, gas, etc. Also, as I am sure many on the forum have said before, clean the aluminum. Not just degrease it. We have always degreased, then used a mild caustic to take the oxide film off. If not a caustic, which isn't an option for a lot of people, use a good SS wire wheel on a grinder, etc. Same goes for the wire. If it has been out in the open air for a while, that oxide layer can build up on the wire as well. One more point, maybe not as critical for a baffle, but anyone using Aluminum Mig on critical components, I have seen 1/4" shoes pull out of their welds on bulkheads that looked so clean they could have been milled! Zero penetration on the plate side. They did, however look perfect beforehand.

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PostPosted: February 10, 2017, 11:04 pm 
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Dismantalus wrote:
BBlue wrote:
Your spool gun problem might be due to incorrect wire feed speed. I had similar problems welding steel, the damn thing was like a tattoo gun. BAM BAM BAM! Slowed the feed way down and it does a beautiful job.

Bill


What he said! If you look up the wire info from the manufacturer on the web, they will have all of the basic parameters for that wire. Wire feed, gas, etc. Also, as I am sure many on the forum have said before, clean the aluminum. Not just degrease it. We have always degreased, then used a mild caustic to take the oxide film off. If not a caustic, which isn't an option for a lot of people, use a good SS wire wheel on a grinder, etc. Same goes for the wire. If it has been out in the open air for a while, that oxide layer can build up on the wire as well. One more point, maybe not as critical for a baffle, but anyone using Aluminum Mig on critical components, I have seen 1/4" shoes pull out of their welds on bulkheads that looked so clean they could have been milled! Zero penetration on the plate side. They did, however look perfect beforehand.

Thanks for the feedback, I will give it another try at some point.

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PostPosted: February 10, 2017, 11:22 pm 
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Well the car ran great last weekend, with nothing broken I decided it was time to pull the engine out and mess everything up.
Attachment:
IMG_20170210_111234.jpg

My new lightened pressure plate and clutch weight 9.9lbs which just happens to be the exact weight of the OEM pressure plate. I am really happy that I managed to remove the entire weight of the clutch disk and it has better inertia as most of the weight was removed towards the outer edge. The result was 3 lbs saved from the clutch system.
Attachment:
IMG_20170210_115205.jpg
Attachment:
IMG_20170210_115219.jpg

I modified the gearstick, the original is an inner and out parts which are connected via rubber acting like a damper. I removed all the rubber and welded on a bolt which shortened the gearstick and dropped the weight from 3lbs to under 2.
Attachment:
IMG_20170209_141510.jpg
Attachment:
IMG_20170209_142751.jpg

The transmission with Gears 5, 6 and the selector removed as well as some hole drilling I the managed to save another 8lbs. The gears should reduce a lot of friction in the drivetrain hopefully getting and extra hp or 2 to the rear wheels. The transmission is also slightly taller due to a different reduction gear (1.120 vs 1.208) which will give me a very important extra 3mph in 2nd gear.
Attachment:
IMG_20170209_150439.jpg

Seeing as the engine is out I am going to do a few other tweaks and to the chassis for minor improvement and maybe a little more lightness.


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PostPosted: February 21, 2017, 7:54 am 
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Seeing as the engine was out of the car I decided to de-stroke the engine down to 2.0L so I can start running in DMod. The F20C engine has all the parts I need. I'm changing to the F20 crank, connecting rods, pistons, AP1 Intake CAM and springs.

Scrap Metal in open heart surgery with her F22 on the Stand and F20 on the floor.
Attachment:
Organized chaos.jpg

Here is the F22 crank which is a blue color
Attachment:
F22 Crank (in engine).jpg

Here you can se the difference in connecting rod length which is minimal
Attachment:
AP2 vs AP1 connecting rods.jpg

F20 Crank installed
Attachment:
crank installed.jpg

I initially installed the AP2 pistons but after some feedback and research discovered that would lower the compression by about a point so I went back and cleaned up the AP1 pistons and installed them.
Attachment:
AP1 pistons.jpg


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PostPosted: February 28, 2017, 9:40 pm 
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The engine is back in and working after a slight mistake getting the timing gear a tooth off.

Seeing as the engine was out I made loads of changes, heres the short list.

1. Rebuilt and destroked engine from 2.2L to 2.0L
2. Changed transmission to custom 4 speed AP1 transmission
3. New lighter clutch and lightened pressure plate
4. Short shift gear stick (home made)
5. Moved steering rack forward 6" and shortened steering arms
6. Moved radiator back 18" and rerouted coolant hoses
7. Remade driveshaft cover.
8. Removed about 20lbs of stuff I doubt I needed
9. Raised the front of the car and corner balanced
10. Removed 2nd seat and ballast car is now 120lbs lighter.

The car with me is now weighting in a little under 1640lbs which I am really happy with. I was hoping for 1650lbs so stoked with the result. It was a hole lot of removing less than 1lb here and there.

New drive shaft cover which is about 3lbs lighter and looks less [PooPoo] then the old one
Attachment:
IMG_20170228_202440.jpg

Radiator moved back I was tempted to move it to the rear of the car for weight distribution but it seemed like a lot of hard work, steering rack moved forward and steering arms shortened accordingly. I also removed about 10lbs of "stuff" from the front
Attachment:
IMG_20170228_202453.jpg

Here is a pile of lightness.
Attachment:
IMG_20170228_202504.jpg


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PostPosted: March 1, 2017, 8:12 am 
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Hey Paul-
You coming to the Dixie Nat Tour event in a couple of weeks?
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: March 1, 2017, 10:00 am 
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Yes sir, I am registered and ready to go, will you be there JD? Maybe we can do dinner one night or something.

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PostPosted: March 1, 2017, 11:20 am 
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I'm not planning to run the event, car is just too un-sorted...

But I might come visit one day and I'll for sure look you up!

:cheers:
JDK

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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