LocostUSA.com

Tom, Are you planning to use wipers? if not, you might consider creating a "frameless" screen so that the top has no frame. Mine is smaller/lower than yours and I like the idea of an unobscured line of sight. Your stanchions look great.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I'm rx7locost and I approve this message.

P.S. Nice work

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks, Chuck. I had meant to post the link to your Windshield Construction thread, here: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=9225

Mnot, I like your frameless wind deflector. Nicely done! I have a similar, wrap-around one on the Ultima. Its chin high so I look over the top of that and use a full face protection on the freeway and at least goggles on two-lane blacktop. On the locost I want to avoid the helmet for highway use so plan to use a look-through windshield. At this point I'm planning on using a combination of clip-on wipers and Rain-X. I don't plan to drive a lot in the rain, but you never know around here...

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Ha ha ha ha ha!, good one Tom, I needed a good laugh today!
I had the same thoughts a few haircuts ago, now I firmly believe in Murphys Law - 'if there's a chance you could get rained on in our cars, it will most likely happen at some point in time'
Still you made me laugh

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Interesting angle on the bend for your stanchions, Tom. I'm not that far, and I hope to use Jack's anyway (I have his scuttle), but they look really good. If I have to make my own (need thicker for hand holds), the reason for that angle may come clear to me.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Thanks, Lonnie. If you are using The KV scuttle, then I'd recommend using Jack's stanchions and windshield construction/assembly process as detailed in the KV website and subsequently enhanced by Chuck and Jack here:
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=9225

My scuttle shape was different enough that I had to make my stanchions from scratch, but I'm following the process above. That funky angle twists the stanchions so that the face attaching to the windshield frame is parallel to the car centerline while the surface bolting to the scuttle matches the taper of the upper frame rail. Jack explains that much better on the Kinetic website.

Work on the windshield frame has been set aside as I'm hunkering down here at CV ground zero. Lot's of other things to work on where I don't need to head out to forage for parts and materials. Well, at least while the toilet paper supply holds up.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Thank you for that pointer, Tom.

Best of luck up there with Covid-19. It's so crazy about the toilet paper, but it's true in San Diego too. Nobody seems to have an answer as to why it's happening. Maybe it was a Facebook or Internet rumor people took seriously or something?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Funny part about the TP hoarding is my colleagues in China do not understand the US hoarding at all. Go figure! My son who is in military health services doesn't understand it either. He says "It is a respiratory disease, not an intestinal one".

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I went to Auto Value this morning to get the final part needed for my rad fan assembly. Beside staff, I was the the only one in the place, kinda pleasant.

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Trochu Motor League

Found enough parts, scrap, etc. to continue with the windshield frame without venturing out. I already had the 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/8" aluminum channel. Scrounged around in my woodpile and found a barely acceptable piece of 3/8" plywood for the bending form. Had enough scrap steel to start making the bending tool but had to order another bearing from Grainger and paid freight (I already had one sitting in Will Call, but am avoiding contact with folks.)

After getting the desired shape in the form board and overbuilding the bending tool, the aluminum channel was annealed at the bend points. The easy part was making the bends.

Still some trimming and shaping to do on the lower end of the legs, but its getting close.

Once properly fettled, the windshield frame will be mounted to the stanchions using rx7locost's weldnut technique. I'll make up a final windshield template but will wait until the shutdown is over before getting the glass cut to shape. The windshield's lower edge will sit in a rubber channel a'la Jack's approach.

"Symmetry is overrated" JD Kemp

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Finished fitting up the windshield frame and attaching it to the stanchions.

Used rx7locost's technique for fixing the stanchion to the frame
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=9225

Now need to source the right length button heads, make up a template for the glass and set this aside for awhile. Much to do before final assembly time.

Small steps, but any progress is good. And vroom-vroom sessions are much more satisfying with a "windshield" to look through .

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Good progress Tom. Got a glass cutter lined up? The shoop that did mine is out of business.

Kind regards,

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Larry in Seattle

Tom, Nice work. Check your wire stripper/crimper. Mine has screw cutters built in. Simple to just screw in the screw the whatever length you need and snip. Something like this:

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks, Chuck. That's a nice feature. My stripper/crimpers don't do that. I'll look for another pair that does.

Been using the lockdown time to work on headlight mounts. Seems my minimalist shock mounts don't have room to mount lights. What's more, they're rotated along all three axis from the car's normal.

So to return to "normal", saddle mounts were made that were twisted to square things up and provide a mounting platform.
I wanted to use 5 3/4" motorcycle-style headlight buckets, so a prototype bottom mount pivot was hacked out of 7/8" aluminum square bar with a band saw. Final pivots will be done when I can get access to a mill. Crush tubes are welded into the mounts to provide a solid through-bolt point.

A mounted height of about 24" from ground level to headlight center should result.


Here's what the almost finished mounts look like.
I wanted a Dietz-style bucket, but they aren't available in 5 3/4", but found some good looking buckets through Amazon. Seller is KiWAV. Also available through eBay.
No need to make an LED headlight choice now, the technology can only get better by the time I'm on the road.

Got the LED turn signals from these folks. They should be plenty bright.
https://www.online-led-store.com/nanofl ... ledstb1803

The devil was in the details, but the result should clear the suspension at max bump and the fender stays at max turn. The aluminum spacers added behind the turn signals provide space to run wires out the back of the lights. 1/4" bolts will be added between the light mount checks and the shock mounts to eliminate any tendency to pivot around the shock bolt. And the right mounting screws, once I can go to the hardware store without a mask on.


The mounts ended up being a bit on the heavy side but they should be solid and vibration resistant. Plus they can be easily removed to improve aerodynamics.

Onward to the front fender stays.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

I've been reluctant to make up front fender stays without having tires to fit the fenders to. Given the time line of my slow build, if I bought tires when I started they would have turned to wood by now (don't ask me how I know.) But given my penchant for perverse logic, I figured what the he!!, why not just start with wooden tires.

So here are my pseudo-Toyo R888 235/40 ZR 17's:

Add a couple of spacers to get the right clearance between tire and fender (per Perry's recommendation):

Lay a fender on the tire mock-up, and voilà:

Just to be sure, a reference check against the same size tires across the garage was in order:

Stepped back and took an admiring look at my not-so Locost (kind of like a stand-up vroom-vroom session )
Gee, windshield, headlight and fenders, even exhaust. Must be almost done...

Ok, back to reality. Now I have to figure out and fab the fender stays. I'll use Perry's tubular stay approach, but fix them to Wilwood Mustang II uprights. I see lots of fettling in my future.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52