LocostUSA.com

Perry, nice thought. I didn't see that solution at first. It would solve the clearance issue. From where I sit, it appears that the axle might have to be removed before bolt could be removed for Rod end service or possibly camber adjustment. That would require the hub, brake disk, caliper etc. to also be removed first.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

What about a "jet nut"
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... gJWrvD_BwE

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

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EDITED
The reducing sleeve can be shortened to 0.060" - 0.090" as the "safety washer" may not be needed as the flanges on the LCA act as a "safety washer". The reducing sleeve acts as a washer so the washer behind the nut can be eliminated.

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

Id machine a custom nut that doubles as a safety washer

Thanks for the ideas, Gents. All very helpful.

Perry, I ordered some Red Rubber Grease from Amazon. I hadn't heard of it before. Looks like good stuff to have around.
Unfortunately, rotating the bolt end-for-end is problematic. Like Chuck pointed out, there would be way too much disassembly required to adjust toe-in.

Kinetic, adding a spacer is creative thinking! Love that! It would affect CV joint plunge, however, and that could cause bigger problems down the line.

John, the Jetnut idea is a good one. Aircraft quality Jetnuts are shorter than Grade 8 Stover nuts, and as you pointed out, don't need a washer. All that helps with the clearance problem. I'll put a couple on order from Pegasus along with the shorter AN8 bolts.

I'm moving ahead with option 2 and reusing the OEM axles. Will need to order some CV joint grease. What's the best stuff out there? Is Red Line's CV-2 a good way to go? And which is the better type of boot clamp: The pinch-to-tighten variety or the crank-up-and-fold-over style?

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Reporting from Google: Any NLGI Grade 1 grease made for CV joints should work well. Usually, wheel bearing grease is grade 2.

The Red Line cv-2 says it is for wheel bearings and high angle CV joints. but don't list the NLGI grade as far as I can tell. I would think that just about any auto parts store would carry some version of NLGI Grade 1 grease on the shelf. A lot of people like Red Line. I highly doubt that auto mfgrs use Red-Line grease in their warranted axle shafts. That said, I doubt that the Red Line stuff will hurt.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks for the research and input, Chuck. After some digging, I did find the specs for CV-2 on RedLine's website. It is NLGI Grade 2, which is more viscous than a Grade 1 grease. Grade 1 seems to be preferred for tripod-type CV joints. Probably because of all the needle bearings involved (What JD called "Giblets" whilst cleaning up a failed CV joint on the Slotus. ) I'm guessing that thinner goop is better for lubing all the giblets.

As my inner CV joints are tripod-type (I haven't opened an outer yet,) I'll be looking for a good NLGI Type 1 CV joint grease. Wish the manufacturers made finding the specs easier.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

It pleases me to see how the group pulls together to find a solution to a problem.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I followed Chuck’s lead and went down the Google rabbit hole on the CV joint grease question. Learned more than I wanted to know about tripod-style CV joints and their lubrication requirement.

For the inboard, tripod style joints, Pegasus Racing summed it all up pretty well, paraphrasing the info on the GKN website:

“The needle bearings in tripod joints can overheat easily because the rollers slide along the length of the needles in addition to spinning around them. The very tight tolerances in tripod joints also do not tolerate solid additives, which can jam and cause the bearings to seize. This special grease from GKN has high scuffing resistance, but without the solid additives typically found in CV grease….This grease is designed specifically for use in tripod joints. Use of the wrong grease can lead to premature failure.”

Maybe that explains JD’s Giblets. While GKN’s tripod grease is pricey, saving an axle may be worth it, not to mention the time removing the giblets.

For the outboard CV joint, typically a Lobro-style , a different type grease is needed to handle the heavy spot loading. Motorsport grade CV joint grease is available for the outboards at pretty good prices if one shops around.

Guess I’ll be doing some shopping, for two kinds of grease.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

That's great research Tom. I did not know that.
I would have used just normal lubrication unknowingly and then would have had a premature you know what, but that's another story for a much different forum.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Finished rebuilding my 2002 Mustang Cobra half-shafts and returned the imported “direct replacements.” Hopefully no giblets if I did this right. I used the correct greases for the two types of CV joints and even found boot clamps made by Oetiker like the originals. The Oetiker clamps look to be much superior to the cheap aftermarket clamps. Hopefully the original CV boots stay good, as I haven’t found replacements for those yet. Perry’s Red Rubber grease has been applied to the boots for longevity. Even cleaned up and painted the exposed shafts.
Rear suspension has been reassembled and torqued to spec with the exception of the axle nuts and the shock bolts. I have questions regarding the axle nuts. The picture below shows the original nuts on the right with integral “loose” washers. The original nuts don’t seem to have a locking provision. The nut on the left is typical aftermarket with a distorted top thread for locking and no integral washer. The Ford replacement nut (W710084-S439, smaller picture) also appears to have an integral “loose” washer. Locking on these seems to be via the green goo and perhaps a distorted thread.
So my questions:
Which nuts to use, original or Ford replacement?
What locking mechanism is required for the nuts?
What is the proper torque for the axle nuts? (JD said Bubba had to use a long pipe on his wrench to get enough torque, but then he had giblets in his axle boots.)

Once I get the axle nuts torqued to spec I can re-set my string box and finalize the initial alignment at all four corners. First pass on alignment has been done so it should be close already, but once more around to be sure.

Thanks for the help!

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

I would use the new Ford replacement. I do not have that high a torque torque wrench so have always used a 1/2" air impact till the nut stopped moving.
So I just just checked a Mustang service manual - 98 ft/# and 45 degrees

https://wwwqa.performanceparts.ford.com ... 4130-M.pdf

Soon to be a DRIVER??????

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

Thanks, John, Exactly the info needed. New Ford nuts are now on order. I should be able to wrench the 98 lb.ft, but may need Bubba for the last 45*. Useful link to the instruction sheets as well. Blue thread locking compound was also mentioned.

A while before it will be a driver, though. Lots of (hopefully) small challenges ahead. The parts you turned on your lathe for me over the years are anxious to finally be on the road.

Thanks again.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

In the natural gas compression industry this is known as the "torque turn spec", it eliminates the need for large torque wrenches. You can use your 250# torque wrench set at 98ft/lbs, then mark the nut/shaft, then mark the nut at 45°, then let Bubba have his way with it til the marks match up.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Many years ago when working on a VW bus, I replaced bearings in both reduction boxes. These were gear reducing boxes attached to the rear swing axle tubes. Designed to give more ground clearance and shorter top gear to allow the engine to push the big bus. The lower bearings included a ball bearing and a roller bearing. Unfortunately the roller bearing had a plastic cage. Tightening the drum on the lower shaft with my 1/2" impact shook the cage enough to destroy it. Bus was back the next day with a bad oil leak from the destroyed bearing and damaged seal. Lesson learned on that one. Luckily roller bearings are not used on 99.9% of vehicles. When tightening the axle nuts I prefer to have the wheel on to avoid shocking the CV joints and differential.

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6