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PostPosted: November 17, 2019, 3:26 pm 
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Repost from 10-19-2019. I had saved a couple of posts we were warned might be lost if/when the pre 10-04-2019 history was restored:

Made a little progress, so time to report, even if it gets (hopefully) blown away by a restore of the last two year’s postings. I’ll save a copy of this post just in case.

So I’ve been working on the rear fenders. How they are mounted affects fabrication of several body panels, so the rear fender mounts needed to be completed before continuing with the exterior tin work.

The rear fenders will be “free standing,“ i.e., not attached directly to the body. This accommodates the long trailing arms as well as the tapered tail section of the Car9 chassis. Plus, I like the look.

Here’s what Fenders’n’More shipped. The rears are 11” wide.
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For the rears, I used a combination of Perry’s front fender stays and JD’s sidepod mounts (from an earlier iteration of the Slotus.) Perry uses ¾” x 0.065” steel tubes attached inside the front fenders (and thence to the spindles) for his stays. JD used tubular aluminum outriggers inserted into steel sockets welded to the Slotus’s lower rails to attach the sidepods. I’m using JD’s socket-plus-outrigger approach and Perry’s fender attachment technique. The removable outriggers will be pinned to the sockets at final assembly.

The rear sockets (1” x 0.125” wall) weld onto convenient chassis tubes. They accept ¾” x 0.065” wall steel outriggers and the sockets will have gussets added during final welding:
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Rear Fender Stay.jpg
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The front sockets weld to 1” x 2” rectangular tubes added to the chassis. The sockets go through the tubes so won’t need gusseting. As the front outriggers point at the occupants’ kidneys, the “perfect” side-impact crash was considered. The sockets are plated over on the inside to obstruct tube penetration and the front outriggers are downsized to 0.049” wall tube to better fold on impact. These outriggers end about 1” “inside” the outer wheel rims for additional crash absorption and I may decide to remake them from aluminum tube for improved crushability. As a side note, Marcus designed the Car9 chassis so that no tubes point directly at the occupants. My forward rear fender mount design violates Marcus's design goal.
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Forward Fender Stay.jpg
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The rear fenders stand off the body panels by 2 ½” to 4 ¾” as defined by the tapered tail.
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Rear Quarter.jpg
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Here’s a side view. The rear fender height is set to accommodate max wheel bump. Their high-point is ¼” below the top of the boot. (The plastic drape on the front of the car is for some in situ fiberglass work on the nose cone. More on that later.)
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The outside to outside measurement across the rear fenders is 71 ½”, which should be the wide-point of the completed car. They don’t make my a$$ look fat do they?
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Rear View.jpg
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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: November 17, 2019, 3:55 pm 
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Repost from 10-29-2019:

Time to quit procrastinating and get on with some fiberglass work. I get itchy just thinking about it…

The only f-glass on the car is the nosecone. I started with a KV unit that has all the nice curves. Then widened it 5 ½ “, sectioned it a couple of inches and now it’s time to extend the length about 5 ½”. No hood is planned and the car has a long scuttle, so the extra nosecone length is needed to close the gap with the rear-set engine.

The scuttle shape had been lofted to carry fair lines length-wise along the nosecone to the dash hoop/bulkhead. The first step in creating the form for the nosecone extension was to create a temporary bulkhead for the new aft edge of the nose cone that followed those fair lines.

The old aft edge of the nosecone had an offset ledge to locate a hood. This was left in place to provide an overlap joint for the extension. An aluminum strip was riveted to the underside of the ledge for attachment of the form for the inside surface.
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The extension is a simple ruled surface, so a sheet of 0.065” polycarbonate (Lexan) was cut and fixed in place to create the form. The f-glass gets laid on top of the Lexan (polyester resin does not adhere to (or dissolve) Lexan.) The sheet was attached to the aluminum strip with two-sided tape and to the temporary bulkhead with a couple of tacks then waxed-up.
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The first glass layer was S-2 bi-directional cloth. Then a couple of layers of mat followed by a finish layer of S-2.
Two layers of S-2 going from the front to back of the nosecone tie the widened area and the extension together.
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Nice to have the sun back out, but that means it will be getting too cold for much more f-glass work.
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Here’s what it looks like with the formwork removed/cut-away but lots of detail work left to be done.
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The nosecone’s underside will get additional glass reinforcement and a cross-wise stiffener once the weather warms up. Then comes a major Bondo phase to blend in the modifications followed by primer/sealer and eventually a "brushed aluminum" looking vinyl wrap.

Now if I could stop the itching...

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: November 17, 2019, 4:09 pm 
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Repost from 11-04-2019:

My exhaust system is built around LS7 headers. After cutting off 4 1/2 lbs. of flanges, 90*turnouts were fabbed up in stainless, Marman flanges added and it was all tacked together. Given my (lack of) skill welding stainless steel, last week I took it to a pro to finish up the welding using an Argon back purge.

While designed for a bigger engine than the LS3, the LS7 headers have a much-needed tight block-hugger design. Their primaries are hydro-formed tubes with a heat shield overlay.
Attachment:
LS7 manifold - naked - 1.jpg
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The mods I made changed the collector shape/size and direction. The side pipes are supported by a Corvette-style muffler hangers and will have turnouts added. The system should work well. More low end torques is not needed. :mrgreen:
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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: November 26, 2019, 10:54 pm 
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Started work on the rear body panels. Car9’s tapered boot has rear corners with a generous radius. An argon tank made the perfect forming tool:
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First up was the driver’s side rear quarter panel. Here with the white protective cover still on:
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IMG_0456-1.jpg
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After lots of heat/beat/repeat I ended up about 95% done:
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The rear body work had to be split into two pieces so each quarter panel could be pulled off over its fender-stay socket. A joggle was rolled into the left panel so an overlap seam could be used for the left-right quarter panel join. Lap seams will also be used at the leading edges of the quarter panels for their join with the side panels. All panels are removable, attached to the frame using aircraft nut plates (and lots of br@ck^ts :ack: ) per mgkluft’s build.
Attachment:
PB265064-1.jpg
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Shrinking the top and bottom panel edges over the rails was a bit tricky and I learned way too much of what not to do. For the next corner I’ll use a tucking fork to make more and smaller gathers as the metal forms over the rail and be more patient with the process. The first corner turned out ok, though:
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Couldn’t help trying on a license plate for size. :mrgreen:
Hope it doesn’t make my a$$ look fat. :oops:
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Hmmm, now to think about tail lights…

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: November 27, 2019, 1:47 am 
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Great progress Tom! Would like to see how you formed that top roll. It's the best I've seen to date.


See you Friday.

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PostPosted: November 27, 2019, 10:38 am 
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Very nice work, Tom. I like the way you've attached the panels. Are those button head machine screws? The place where the panels join is really nice too. I forget the sheet metal term for the "drop down" where the panels join. :roll:

Anyway, I plan to have an attachment system too, so I'm very pleased to have another good example to learn from.

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 27, 2019, 10:40 am 
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Questions. What gauge and grade of aluminum did you use? I've not seen panels in white film before. Does that signify anything in terms of the material type (application or grade)?

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 27, 2019, 12:30 pm 
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Build looks great! That rear piece came out especially nice IMO.

Lonnie- That vinyl film can be had on any grade of aluminum. You can choose whether you get it or not, at least if you are ordering a decent amount of it. For me it's hit and miss at my local supplier. Sometimes it has the film. Sometimes not.


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PostPosted: November 27, 2019, 2:34 pm 
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benny_toe wrote:
Great progress Tom! Would like to see how you formed that top roll. It's the best I've seen to date.
Larry, Camera angle and lighting is everything. The roll came out nice but not perfect. You can check it out in person on Friday.
Lonnie-S wrote:
Questions. What gauge and grade of aluminum did you use? I've not seen panels in white film before. Does that signify anything in terms of the material type (application or grade)?
Lonnie, I got the aluminum sheets from On-line Metals. Some panels came with clear protective wrap, some came with white. Not sure why, seems to be the same material and the same catalog line item. I ordered 4' x 12' sheets and had them cut to 4' x 6' so they would fit in my van. No charge for the cuts. I did a will-call pick up so no freight charge.

I'm using 5052-H32 in 0.050" thickness. 5052 anneals at 650*F, while 3003 anneals at 775*F. Glad I double checked that before ordering the correct Tempilstik crayon from Amazon. With all the annealing I had to do I didn't trust the Sharpie burn-off method. Those Sharpies can be sneaky and I didn't want to have a melt-down.
https://www.tinmantech.com/education/ar ... ealing.php

Yes, those are button-head machine screws, 8-32 in ss. The step for the drop-down joint is called a joggle, I think. There may be a better term for that type of joint.

Banzairx7 wrote:
Build looks great! That rear piece came out especially nice IMO.
Thanks, Banzair. I hope the second side goes as well.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: November 30, 2019, 10:23 pm 
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With the rear fenders mounts completed and rear body panels underway, attention turned to the tail lights. I’ve never been a fan of the classic Seven tail lights. Fender mounted, blocky and IMO kinda fugly (sorry Seven tradionalists.)

My original plan was to use ’50 Pontiac tail lights as a tribute to my ’32 five-window from (way) back in the day. But with the rear body panels in place it became apparent that between Car9’s tapered tail and big corner radii, the flat, rear-facing panel would be too narrow for the lights. Pontiac tail lights mounted on that flat section would look like red Dagmars pointed aft. :shock:

Interesting, but not the look I was after.
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So lights were needed that would mount between the fenders and the body. After a bit of research, ’37 Ford and ’39 Chevy tail lights became the top two contenders.

The Chevy units seemed to fit the situation better:
Attachment:
P1015070-1.jpg
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They are really bright LED units from United Pacific and support tail, turn and brake functions. I was able to get the chrome units for the same price as the primered ones. If that’s too much bling, the chrome housings can be wrapped in brushed-aluminum-look vinyl like the nose cone.

The fender stay sockets will double as mounting points. O.D. tube clamps from Speedway plus bespoke 1/8” aluminum br@ck^ts along with rubber mounting pads from flea-bay will fix the lights to the chassis.

This is the Speedway clamp for 1" O.D. tube:
Attachment:
PB305080-1.jpg
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And here’s what the lights look like on the car. A quick and dirty prototype mounting plate was used here. A more substantial mounting plate is in work:
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The Chevy tail lights will be augmented with a 3rd (and 4th) high-mount brake lights on the back sides of the head rests. If amber lighting is required in the rear, bright LED dots can be placed where needed and wired in.

So now the Dagmars are a bit more discrete and pointed in the right direction... :D
Attachment:
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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: December 1, 2019, 6:40 am 
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Tom that appears to be a good looking solution for tail lights. Will you be installing a back up light or is it not necessary for your build? Are side reflectors going to be required?

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PostPosted: December 1, 2019, 10:13 am 
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I like the location and style of the lights. Why not simply weld a mounting tab to the fender stay. It would be a cleaner install IMO.

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PostPosted: December 1, 2019, 3:03 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
I like the location and style of the lights. Why not simply weld a mounting tab to the fender stay. It would be a cleaner install IMO.
Chuck, that's a great idea. I wasn't sure about spacing, angle (the light bottom is slanted), etc. so the tube clamps let me avoid those decisions for the time being. There may be more vibration in the stay than in the socket, though. I will rethink the final mounting. So far, no cutting/welding has been necessary with the clamps, so the current mock-up is totally changeable.

horchoha wrote:
Tom that appears to be a good looking solution for tail lights. Will you be installing a back up light or is it not necessary for your build? Are side reflectors going to be required?
Perry, I wasn't planning to have back-up lights, though they would be easy to add to this set up. Side reflectors and/or side lights can be added as needed and wiring can be stubbed off for future use. I'll have to check the regs again.

As for a license plate light, I'm planning to use LED Lite'n Boltz. Have used them before and they make for a clean solution.

https://designengineering.com/lite-n-boltz-plate-kit/
Attachment:
LEDPlateKit-1.jpg
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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: December 1, 2019, 9:48 pm 
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Tom, those license plate lights are way cool. Never saw them before. You just keep on teaching. :cheers:

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PostPosted: December 2, 2019, 6:22 pm 
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Yo Tom!
Those tail lights are sooo cool! I think I'd like 'em in the aluminum look instead of chrome, but that's just my opinion. If the bodywork was painted, maybe they'd be OK. I'm also liking the "remote" rear fenders more and more. Neat idea.

Those license plate bolts/lights... You're just showin' off!!! :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
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