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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 2, 2019, 8:07 pm 
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Are you having a gap between the rear fenders and body as visible in the photos or are the fenders just not in their final resting place? If the gap, what was the thought process behind that, don't think I've ever seen that on a 7 style car before.

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PostPosted: December 2, 2019, 9:16 pm 
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Trochu wrote:
Are you having a gap between the rear fenders and body as visible in the photos or are the fenders just not in their final resting place? If the gap, what was the thought process behind that, don't think I've ever seen that on a 7 style car before.
Yes the gap is real and as shown. Car9 has long trailing arms and the body tapers aft of the roll bar. I went with free standing rear fenders to clear the trailing arms and not have super wide fenders at the rear. They are 11" wide and stand free by 3" in the front and 5" at the trailing edge. Agreed, not the traditional Seven style, but I like the jaunty look.

rxlocost wrote:
I like the location and style of the lights. Why not simply weld a mounting tab to the fender stay. It would be a cleaner install IMO.
Chuck, I've been thinking through your idea and decided to go that way. Had to get creative to avoid closing-in the though bolt fixing the stay to the socket, but think I have that solved. Much cleaner looking. Will post pics when I have a new tail light mock up.

GonzoRacer wrote:
Those tail lights are sooo cool! I think I'd like 'em in the aluminum look instead of chrome, but that's just my opinion. If the bodywork was painted, maybe they'd be OK. I'm also liking the "remote" rear fenders more and more. Neat idea.
Those license plate bolts/lights... You're just showin' off!!!
benny_toe wrote:
... those license plate lights are way cool. Never saw them before...
Thanks, fellas. Just typical aftermarket hot rod / street rod stuff. I used the license plate lights on the Ultima. The new LED version should be better.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: December 2, 2019, 10:24 pm 
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Tom, FWIW, here is my idea. (the "hole in fender" should read "fender stay")


Attachments:
mount.jpg
mount.jpg [ 52.6 KiB | Viewed 2843 times ]

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PostPosted: December 10, 2019, 3:00 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Tom, FWIW, here is my idea. (the "hole in fender" should read "fender stay")
Chuck, that’s an interesting design with some great details like running the wires in the fender stays, etc.

My space is a little tight, though. There’s only a 5” gap between the fender and body and 2” of that is taken up by the socket that supports the fender stay. So a simple br@ck^t was made by cutting a piece of channel from some 1” x 1/8” wall square tubing and welding on a tab. Not pretty, but the mount will be hidden under the light.
Attachment:
PC095082-1.jpg
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The cutout in the bottom of the light has been sealed with a rubber gasket and a 16 gauge aluminum filler panel. The light just bolts onto the mount.

The mounting br@cket will straddle the stay tube and be welded on. Note the angle between bottom of the light and the lens face, about 75*. So will have to compensate by rotating the mount on the stay 15* before welding on.
Attachment:
PC095081-1.jpg
PC095081-1.jpg [ 365.29 KiB | Viewed 2722 times ]


On the stay, the mount will shoulder up against the support socket and be welded to the stay. This neatly centers the light in the gap. The mount surface needs to sit a bit above the socket so the light clears the head of a bolt that will pin the stay into the socket (not shown here.) The light will have to be unbolted from the mount in order to remove the pin so the fender stay can be pulled (always something.) :roll:
Attachment:
PC095085-1.jpg
PC095085-1.jpg [ 322.14 KiB | Viewed 2722 times ]


Definitely a cleaner look than my original clamp-on br@ck^t.
Attachment:
PC095084-1.jpg
PC095084-1.jpg [ 356.64 KiB | Viewed 2722 times ]

Thanks for the ideas and inspiration, Chuck.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: January 17, 2020, 2:06 am 
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Finished off the tail light mounts. Simple br@ck^ts fixed to the fender stays.
Attachment:
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While the fuel tank was out, I re-did the fuel pressure regulator mount. It had been a simple slab of 1/8” cold rolled. The replacement should be lighter and retain the regulator better.
Attachment:
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Then started work on the right-side half of the rear body panel. Used a tucking tool to gather the metal before forming it over the top-tube bend. The Channel-lock based tool worked the best here. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=20381 Here’s the process photos:
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This corner formed much faster with a better result than the first one which wasn’t pre-gathered. The leather covered slapperswere a big help as well. Not perfect, but good enough.

Still have the boot top to do, but good progress on this end of the build.
Attachment:
IMG_0589-1.jpg
IMG_0589-1.jpg [ 233.23 KiB | Viewed 2496 times ]

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: January 17, 2020, 7:20 am 
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Tom, its really coming together! The simplicity of bodywork belies the amount of effort you spent here. I really like the lights, understated yet meet the needs.

Thom


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PostPosted: January 17, 2020, 9:23 am 
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Nice job on the corners :cheers: We have a winner :lol: Tom, you even gets bonus points !!
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PostPosted: January 17, 2020, 11:03 am 
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Very nice job on the corner forming :cheers:

Not to mention that the taillight brackets now look simple, elegant and effective.

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PostPosted: January 17, 2020, 4:21 pm 
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Very nice Tom.
Did you use the same technique on the bottom corners of the rear panel?

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PostPosted: January 18, 2020, 7:08 am 
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Looks great!

What was the material thickness and alloy? Did you anneal during the process?

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PostPosted: January 18, 2020, 10:59 am 
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Hi Tom-
Sorry I'm late... Been out in the shed, playing with my wang... (This 4th grade humor just never stops, does it?)

As always, the sheet metal work is top notch. Like the tail light br#ckets too! So much that I almost typed that dirty word... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: January 18, 2020, 6:52 pm 
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Thank you all for the kind words. The tail lights came out nice and the improvement in the metalwork over the first corner is evident. So I must be learning something.

I used 0.05" (edit) thick sheet aluminum, which thickened further as the gathers were shrunk over the tubing. Dressing off the resulting “calluses” and blems with a file and sandpaper cleaned up the finished appearance without over-thinning the metal. Also, using soft-face hammers and slappers meant there was less to clean up.

MV8, I used 5052-H32 aluminum sheet. Early-on I bought enough at one shot to complete the car. The worked areas were annealed to 650*F multiple times (5-6?) during the forming process. I used a Tempilstik crayon to make sure I hit the annealing temperature.

I’ve since learned from a pro metalworker that 3003 is a more “forgiving” for this kind of work and would be the preferred alloy. 3003 anneals at a higher temperature (775*F) so a different Tempilstik would be required.

Perry, I used the same technique to form the lower corners. But since the tube was larger diameter and the edge being bent over was shorter they were much easier to do. And besides, the results will be tough to see if I keep the shiny side up.

Next up is the aluminum skin for the scuttle. Minimal metal forming required, but the under-skin br@ck^ts to support the windshield without distorting the skin will be a bit challenging. Still thinking on that whilst I rough out a 26” x 56” aluminum panel and lay down my gas bottle roll former...

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


Last edited by seattletom on January 19, 2020, 12:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: January 18, 2020, 11:24 pm 
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That's wicked thick aluminum, you're going to have the safest locost around! :lol:

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PostPosted: January 19, 2020, 12:00 am 
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Trochu wrote:
That's wicked thick aluminum, you're going to have the safest locost around! :lol:
Whoops, you've got a good eye. Should have been 0.05" not 0.50" :oops: I'll go back and make the edit. Thanks for the catch.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: January 19, 2020, 1:06 am 
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I'm just razzing you Tom. If someone read that and went and bought 0.5", they'd almost deserve it. Bet a sheet of that wouldn't be locost. It's good info Tom, which I appreciate. I've yet to do the bodywork on mine. Not really looking forward to it, the methodology provided helps.

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