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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 24, 2013, 10:19 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
seattletom wrote:
. . . The plastic LS motor arrived from P-Ayr (no problem making my 1500 lb. target with this puppy.) . . .

Now that's something new to me. What is the usual purpose for that plastic block? Can you fasten the typical engine items on to it like water pump, intake, etc.?


Hi Lonnie- It's kinda early in Tom's time zone (So why are YOU up?) so I'll chime in for him. Plastic blocks -and entire engines- are used fairly often in the hot-rod or racecar building world, just for ease of measurement during the design and layout phase. It's one thing to pick up the plastic "engine" and set it in the frame and then move it forward an inch or two or rearward or whatever. Quite another matter to do the same operation with a 450 lb cast iron V8. Also, if you can buy a plastic one cheaply, that can "put off" the more expensive engine purchase until later in the build.

There's probably other reasons, but those two come to mind. Oh, and the plastic engines don't drip oil on the shop floor...
:cheers:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: January 24, 2013, 10:50 am 
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Oh, and yes, the plastic blocks are helicoiled such that you can bolt those kinds of bits and pieces on the block / heads.

Should be able to attach a waterpump, timing chain cover, oilpan, valvecovers, intake, exhaust mani's / headers, bellhousing, and accessory drive setup (except the harmonic balancer).

They're certainly alot easier to pull in and out of the framerails. For me it's hard to justify the cost, though. New they're $375... But to others, it's may not be such a big deal. Especially if you can use it more than once (Might make a really cool coffee table, too).

JustDreamin


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PostPosted: January 24, 2013, 1:16 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Hi Lonnie- It's kinda early in Tom's time zone (So why are YOU up?) so I'll chime in for him.

Thank you, JD. Yup, I'm up at 4:00 AM Pacific Time most days.

GonzoRacer wrote:
Plastic blocks -and entire engines- are used fairly often in the hot-rod or racecar building world, just for ease of measurement during the design and layout phase.

That's a heck of a good idea. At first, I though it referred to an exotic engine block material (anyone else old enough to remember the TNT process developed for the Crosleys or the Polymotor race engine?), but could see from the photo it was a mock-up. Then, I thought, it might be a prop used for in-store advertising or display. It sounds like a pretty handy thing to have.

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: January 24, 2013, 2:12 pm 
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JustDreamin wrote:
Oh, and yes, the plastic blocks are helicoiled such that you can bolt those kinds of bits and pieces on the block / heads.
Should be able to attach a waterpump, timing chain cover, oilpan, valvecovers, intake, exhaust mani's / headers, bellhousing, and accessory drive setup (except the harmonic balancer).
They're certainly alot easier to pull in and out of the framerails. For me it's hard to justify the cost, though. New they're $375... But to others, it's may not be such a big deal. Especially if you can use it more than once (Might make a really cool coffee table, too).
JustDreamin

It's like JustDreamin said, you can attach most every accessory including engine mounts. And not really expensive when you consider re-selling it on ebay or Craigslist (they are in demand) and defering the bigger $ a real motor costs. And then there is the savings in osteopath bills... I figure its a no-cost deal in the long run, and requires a lot less $$ up-front .

I'll make a simple wood box (non-drip oil pan) to set the motor at the right height, a cardboard intake manifold for hood clearance, etc. At some point I'll bolt up the real bellhousing and then the tranny. I should be able to get real close with this set up and then do the final weld in when I get the real motor.

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However, you don't have a hair on your... uhhh... EARS... yeah, that's it, ears... iffen you don't sit in that seat and rev the motor for a pic! Open the garage door, so you don't get exhaust fumes in the shop.
JD, thought I'd wait until I got some tubes welded together...but maybe not :oops:

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: January 25, 2013, 12:10 pm 
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The plastic blocks are nice, but costly. When I was mocking my car up, I bought an engine block that tossed a rod for $50. I also got an empty trans case and an empty diff case for basically the cost of shipping. (they were aluminum so not too bad). Either way, having a physical mock up that you can easily move around was priceless.

Ken


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PostPosted: January 30, 2013, 10:53 am 
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Tom...Nice bio! 33 hot rod build...sweet! A car I have had interested in building...but I like the 1500 pound with a v8 power L7? style. Visited Burton a few years back to try the Stalker superchargered v6...it was good but, I have found that I like and need is the "NA American V8" rumble. I to have followed rod's 5.0 build. Downloaded and been studing Tom's Car9.

Sounds like your going to be building a top quality car...great! Do you have a planned completion date?

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PostPosted: January 30, 2013, 8:17 pm 
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DonChez wrote:
Tom...Nice bio! 33 hot rod build...sweet! A car I have had interested in building...but I like the 1500 pound with a v8 power L7? style. Visited Burton a few years back to try the Stalker superchargered v6...it was good but, I have found that I like and need is the "NA American V8" rumble. I to have followed rod's 5.0 build. Downloaded and been studing Tom's Car9.
Sounds like your going to be building a top quality car...great! Do you have a planned completion date?
Don, thanks for the comments. Yeah, something about that V8 rumble...

No timeline set for the build. I'm currently in the ramp-up stage. Measuring 3 times before I cut and learning lots. Also following CharleyN's work on Marcus' Car9. Nice to have a pro lead the way.

A more thorough progress report soon, I hope.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: January 30, 2013, 8:33 pm 
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Quote:
No timeline set for the build. I'm currently in the ramp-up stage. Measuring 3 times before I cut and learning lots. Also following CharleyN's work on Marcus' Car9. Nice to have a pro lead the way.


Sounds like a plan to me, Tom. Don't take the fun out of it by working to a deadline. (It will also give the rest of us more time to steal your ideas and re-build our cars!)

Have I missed CharleyN's posts about Marcus' car? I haven't seen them... I'd love to know what's goin' on with that build too! (Naturally nosey, I guess... )

Regards-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: January 30, 2013, 10:08 pm 
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I too used a scrap block, with oil pan, in construction. Not that I planned on doing that, and not that getting that scrap block was cheaper than $350, but... yeah, using a scrap block is certainly a good way to go.

Just don't buy a scrap block thinking it is good.

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PostPosted: January 31, 2013, 7:03 am 
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Hey Gonzo, just searched through Charley's posts and aside from his Elva thread, the only posts he has made have been in the car9 thread...


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PostPosted: February 2, 2013, 10:05 am 
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So...your a wood burner...me to... :cheers:

looking forward to the great build log!

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PostPosted: February 8, 2013, 2:08 am 
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Zen and the Art of Locost Building

So this is my first (sort of) progress report. Let me describe the scene: A nice flat build table laid out in front of me, all the straight tubing I’ll need for the build lying there, nicely bent tubes from CharleyN leaning against the wall, and me with a plasma cutter in one hand and a MIG torch in the other :twisted: That’s when the “Oh, sh!t, what do I do now?” moment hit me.
So I put the torches down, took a step backward and tried being a little more cerebral. As this is one of the first Car9 builds I want to do it right.

Car9 can be likened to a roll cage with suspension and drive train attached. So it’s important to get the initial structure right, which happens to fit together like Tinker Toys. I followed CharleyN’s lead and started with the fabrication of the front bulkhead. I won’t show pictures of mine, ‘cause Charley’s welds are much prettier. But then I moved on to the dash bulkhead verticals. After some fitting and fettling they were dialed in perfectly. So a trial assembly of the major frame components (sans roll hoop) was in order. Dang! It's starting to look like something :shock:

With the help of HF’s magic magnets, that’s what’s shown in the pictures below. The upper dash hoop legs need to be shortened and fishmouthed. The roll hoop (not shown) needs to be fit up. The ends of the upper rails need to be trimmed and shaped. The front bulkhead needs finishing. etc. etc. Then the basic structure can be tacked together. Fitting in the diagonals and the rear hoops can be done one at a time, but the basic structure is kind of all at once. So that’s my next target. It's only a modest beginning :oops: but stay tuned.


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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52
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PostPosted: February 8, 2013, 7:34 am 
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Is the top rail bent in two, ummm, planes, I guess would be the right term? Or is it a a single bend...?


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PostPosted: February 8, 2013, 8:53 am 
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Yo, Tom!
Startin' to look kinda sexy there, Bro!!! I'm interested in the use of the "double wide" rectangular tubing along with the round. I'd guess the rectangular is more resistive to bending on the longer sides, thus its placement at the front and at the dashboard uprights. Guessing... Is that the thought? It makes for interesting shapes, if nothing else, and looks good.

Krepus, I think the main upper tubes are bent in one plane and then rotated so that they go inwards and downwards. I think...

Keep the updates comin', Tom, it's great to see things moving along.
Regards-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: February 8, 2013, 12:01 pm 
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Tom,
It looks like you are off to a great start. Keep up the good work.

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