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PostPosted: October 2, 2016, 9:44 pm 
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I've considered trying to force a 14" fan on there. It'd force me to remove the pull fan shroud, but maybe that'd be worth trying anyways (due to the getting hot at idle business). Going to try just removing the shroud first, and then probably upgrade fans. Car is apart right now because the water pump gasket I purchased didn't fit. Either going to have to trim it to fit or find the right one.


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PostPosted: October 2, 2016, 10:26 pm 
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It's apart, you've spent how much time and $$$ trying to track down the trouble? Replace the water pump while it's an easy thing to do.

I've seen water pumps that looked good but didn't pump well so eliminate that from the equation as you go forward.

BTW I don't remember, have you flushed the engine?

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PostPosted: October 3, 2016, 3:32 pm 
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Got the new pump ready to go (turns out its a 1990 crown vic pump, as they were clockwise pumps). Going to try to build that ducting (this is like the 7th time I've said it, but this time for real). I'm not sure of the best way to make it given my delicate nosecone mounting situation, but worst case scenario is that I simple remove my grill to add and remove everything, maybe adding rivnuts in the current nosecone holes. I'd rather avoid rivnuts though for fear that they'll back out too easily.


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PostPosted: October 3, 2016, 5:57 pm 
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eh3civic wrote:
I'm not sure of the best way to make it given my delicate nosecone mounting situation, but worst case scenario is that I simple remove my grill to add and remove everything, maybe adding rivnuts in the current nosecone holes. I'd rather avoid rivnuts though for fear that they'll back out too easily.
Not sure what size threads you need, but you might try floating anchor nuts:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... rnuts3.php
I understand they have a locking style thread. Other light aircraft solutions might work as well.

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PostPosted: October 3, 2016, 9:29 pm 
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We figure that if we keep you chasing your tail until winter, it'll work no matter what and the problem's solved, at least until next spring...

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PostPosted: October 3, 2016, 9:40 pm 
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I was pondering today as to if I'm doing that subconsciously!


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PostPosted: October 4, 2016, 8:45 pm 
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Replaced the pump, tested the thermostat, double checked the timing, beefed up the radiator some (though maybe that was a mistake), added a surge tank. Is it too crazy to contemplate adding a secondary and tertiary radiator at the front panels? Basically cutting big holes in the panels and sticking some radiators in those holes? You can just feel the desperation while you read this, I know.


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PostPosted: October 4, 2016, 9:48 pm 
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I assume I might still have air in the system, despite the new tank. Back to my pictures, I believe I should probably cap off the existing radiator somehow and run that tee where my current temp sender is. I get this idea from http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/. If I had to guess, I'm getting some very high temp readings in part due to the sender being at the hottest coolant point, but also perhaps because it is where air would most likely trap due to it being the highest engine point.
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If your engine doesn't have steam ports, and the rad is lower than the top of the engine, the bleed line to the surge tank must come from the highest point on the engine because this is where steam and air will naturally gravitate and get trapped. A fitting on the water pump in the same passage as the outlet to the radiator can be a reasonable compromise.

If you add a surge tank to a system that already has a rad cap on the radiator, you need to permanently seal the radiator rad cap location, or at least install on the rad a cap with a rating significantly higher than the surge tank cap will have, so that the radiator mounted cap will not open before the surge tank cap.


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PostPosted: October 4, 2016, 11:31 pm 
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Maybe you could plumb the thermostat bypass thru the surge tank? Doing a T where your temp sensor is is ok, but you should have flow by the sensor.

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PostPosted: October 5, 2016, 12:18 am 
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This. Like I keep saying, you have to bleed off coolant from the highest point in the system. If that point is the coolant sensor location, so be it.

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PostPosted: October 5, 2016, 10:08 am 
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Maybe you could plumb the thermostat bypass thru the surge tank? Doing a T where your temp sensor is is ok, but you should have flow by the sensor.


This is a highish pressure place, so I'm hoping that will contribute to flow across the sensor with a tee, at least when the temp gets up. I'm afraid to change the thermostat bypass since I'm only now changing things to the point where they were on a stock setup (tstat bypass + heater hose loop essentially).


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PostPosted: October 5, 2016, 10:20 am 
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When the motor is cold and you take off the bypass hose at the manifold do you see air or coolant?

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PostPosted: October 6, 2016, 3:07 pm 
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Tested the new setup today and it is still acting wonky. Purging air much better at least, but it is still overheating at idle. It is also unacceptable at speed, although it is improved significantly compared to before.


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PostPosted: October 6, 2016, 3:37 pm 
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Changing my focus to the fan. My current fan is woefully inadequate I think. It was a fan that came with one of the ebay radiators, and despite their claimed rating, it is not enough... actually even at their claimed rating, it is nowhere near enough I think. Going to try to fit a 3000+ CFM pusher in front of the radiator (plenty of space to do so).


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PostPosted: October 6, 2016, 3:55 pm 
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Except that you said it's unacceptable at-speed. A fan doesn't help in that situation and in fact, its (unpowered) bulk actually blocks the air flow.

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