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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 4, 2016, 4:12 pm 
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Location: Columbia SC
benny_toe wrote:
Ron,

I had a problem finding a slave cylinder that would fit on my early Toyota T50 tranny so after a lot of hard thinking I went with a Saab 9000 internal unit. Had to make an adaptor and a tool for bleeding the master.

Just a little over 1K miles and no problems.

If you check my build log, I did exactly the same thing with my Volvo M47 transmission. :D :D

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PostPosted: January 4, 2016, 6:34 pm 
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If I recall correctly, that's where I got my inspiration! :D

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PostPosted: March 2, 2016, 6:07 pm 
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Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Worked on the lower control arms today.
Cut tubes for both sides and trimmed the parts of the Fox arms that hold the ball joints. Dry fit the drivers side.
Attachment:
RtLCAfrnt01.jpg

Attachment:
RtLCAtop01.jpg

Attachment:
RtLCArr02.jpg

I need to order the shocks before the design for mounts can be nailed down. They will fit more or less like this.
Attachment:
ShockAbout here.jpg

Ron


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PostPosted: March 9, 2016, 1:33 pm 
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Decided to go ahead with the shock mounts. Worked out the top.
Attachment:
TopSkMnt04.jpg

Attachment:
TopSkMnt05.jpg

Attachment:
TopSkMnt01.jpg

Attachment:
TopSkMnt02.jpg

Attachment:
TopSkMnt03.jpg

I'll add a gusset with a arched cutout to the top later.
The shock will line up just to the back of the LBJ, Sits at 45 degrees and will attach to 1/8" pieces that will have the 1" tube passing through them and are fitted through slots in the piece holding the ball joint. I don't know how else to explain it. I hope to post pictures of it soon.

Ron


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PostPosted: March 10, 2016, 4:48 pm 
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This is what I was trying to describe.
Attachment:
LCAbtmShkMt01.jpg

Attachment:
LCAbtmShkMt02.jpg

Attachment:
LCAbtmShkMt03.jpg

Attachment:
LCAbtmShkMt04.jpg

Attachment:
LCAbtmShkMt05.jpg

Attachment:
LCAbtmShkMt06.jpg

Ron


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PostPosted: March 10, 2016, 4:54 pm 
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Location: Sidney, BC, Canada
That's a nice looking shock mount. It looks like a very good way to lower the attachment point and package a longer shock than you otherwise would be able to. I'm usually too lazy to make nice swoopy cutouts like that, what tools do you use for it? just cut and grind to shape?


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PostPosted: March 10, 2016, 6:23 pm 
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Posthumane,

Thanks! Yes it was basically just cut and grind to shape.
Made a template and transferred the 1" hole center to a stack of 2" x 4" x 1/8" plates. Drilled the 1" hole and the 2" dia. cutout. Separated the plates where I had tacked them together. Using the template I traced the basic outline. Used a transfer punch to locate the 1/2" hole on the front piece first. With the 1/2" holes drilled, the shape was refined, trimmed with an angle grinder, and smoothed with a 40 grit disc on a 12" grinder.
It took more time to work out the approach than to make the pieces. This way the shock is mounted to the frame the way I wanted it to.
Attachment:
MntFab01.jpg

Attachment:
MntFab02.jpg

Attachment:
MntFab03.jpg

Attachment:
MntFab04.jpg

That 1 hp 12" disc grinder is from Northern Tool. It makes short work of shaping the 1/8" stock.


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PostPosted: March 11, 2016, 8:56 am 
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Location: central Arkansas
I have one of those disc sanders too. I folded my big belt sander horizontal and set it on top to try it out. That was maybe five years ago. I haven't seen any need to stand the belt sander back up. The discs are also much cheaper than belts, which I managed to snag far too often...


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PostPosted: March 11, 2016, 12:03 pm 
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Location: Sidney, BC, Canada
Looks like a very handy tool. I was thinking about making one for myself, since I have an extra 1/2hp motor kicking around from a washing machine.

One thing I noticed is that your drill press vice is bolted down. I was told to leave the vice (or part) floating and just rest it up against a post on the drill bed to keep it from spinning if the bit catches. I think the reason for it is that it lets the part wobble with the tip of the drill bit for bits that aren't completely straight. I'm not sure which way is better though.


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PostPosted: March 11, 2016, 3:27 pm 
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I searched the net for every example of a homemade sander I could find. I also read a lot of reviews for disc sanders from 6" to 15" and learned that a good sander that would stand up to being used in a metal fab shop needed 1) at least a 1 hp motor. 2) A well made platen to mount the sanding disc to 3) all metal frame. 4) A fairly large disc table . When you figure time and materials to build something even close.
Compared to what I pieced together to start with,
Attachment:
Fr035,LA and LB.jpg

I've had the 12" over a year it's a pleasure to use every time still . :wink:

The vise is bolted to a piece of thick table top. It has 2 carriage bolts passing through the bottom so black plastic knobs can be used for fine adjustments. I don't let the vice float when metal working. The only wobbly bits I have are some entry level brad point wood working bits that are used only when accuracy doesn't matter. My most used bit for 3/16" and under is an Irwin single flute Uni-bit with 1/8" deep steps. I use a lot of tapping/cutting oil. For thicker material I have collected, over time, every size Cobalt bit the local hardware store carries, and for larger sizes or metric Mcmaster-Carr has good selections. I spend the extra money to make life easier and so far it's paid off.

Having said that..when I use the Uni-bit on larger than 1/8" I'll flip the piece over and with the bottom knobs loose let the drill center the bit to bring the rest of the hole to size. Just because some days I'm to lazy to change to the correct size regular bit to finish the hole. With care and practice I can still wind up with accurate cuts.

I know, a simple statement, and a long drawn out explanation.. :roll:

Ron


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PostPosted: March 11, 2016, 7:21 pm 
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What a great idea to reuse the original lca lbj cups. I like the lower shock mount too. The originals had a similar mount.

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PostPosted: March 12, 2016, 9:22 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F,
To give credit where it's due, the idea to use the cup from the stock LCA came from Perry's LSO build,
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030&start=75
as did the upper ball joint adapter,
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030&start=135
Pictures of the early Lotus 7 LCA dropped shock mount are all over the net but this one of the DSK up grade was the main inspiration,
Attachment:
dskAFrames.jpg

The idea for the top shock came directly from Cat 165 pictures. this one in particular,
Attachment:
Cat165UpperShkMnt.jpg

For sure nothing about the built is "new", just the usual collection of ideas from others efforts used in ways that meet my needs. :)

Ron


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PostPosted: March 12, 2016, 9:29 am 
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For sure nothing about the built is "new", just the usual collection of ideas from others efforts used in ways that meet my needs.
Well said, Sir! And good of you to put it out there. This group is pretty amazing.

I've stolen ideas from most all of them myself! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: March 21, 2016, 9:49 am 
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Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Not much done building wise. found some deals on Craigs list to add to the collection.
Attachment:
89core w,F4B.jpg

I bought the core and the tall valve covers. The intake is a F4B Edelbrock. Good mid low to mid range street intake.
And then there was this engine and trans for $100.00. Part of a storage warehouse cleanup sale. I haven't checked the firing order to see if it might be a roller. If nothing else it has all the engine piece parts to convert from EFI to Carburetor. The intake is from a 1984 but the timing cover doesn't have a place for the mechanical fuel pump, so its new enough to be a HO with roller cam. We'll see. :)
Attachment:
WarehouseFind.jpg

Now I need to sell the Ranger engines and transmissions to make room.
Nothing at all linear about this building process.

Ron

The firing order is H.O.!! :o :)


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Last edited by STranger 7 on March 31, 2016, 3:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 31, 2016, 3:50 pm 
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Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Worked on the right side L.C.A., also ordered new motor and trans mounts for 302 and T5.
Upper front suspension brakts then the V8 and trans.
Attachment:
rlca01.jpg

Attachment:
rlca02.jpg

Ron

After welding it into submission! :)
Attachment:
RtLCAwelds01.jpg

Attachment:
RtLCAwelds02.jpg


Ron


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In my defense the moon was full and I was left unsupervised


Last edited by STranger 7 on April 6, 2016, 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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