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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 29, 2014, 1:45 pm 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
and for those that didnt notice, I am back to FieroReinke instead of FieroReinke2. I was stupid enough to try to change my email on my profile and it locked my account. This is was forced me to switch to FieroReinke2 in the first place. Oh well, maybe I can get one of the admins to unlock it for me again.

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PostPosted: June 17, 2014, 10:10 am 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
I have a nose cone!!!!!!

While at the Midwest gathering I bought an Equinox nose cone from Eric (Smith on here). He bought two for his build and I was able to talk him into selling this one to me.

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My engine will be dropping about 2 inches from its current position. I dont plan on using any kind of hood scoop and will adjust the height of the scuttle to clear the engine.

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This nose cone is designed to be used with fiberglass side panels and not the aluminum side panels more commonly used in on this dies of the pond. So when I line up one side with my top rails, it hangs over the other side about 1/4". With the flange built into the nosecone, it doesnt have much flex allowing me to squeeze it togther. Hopefully I can notch the flange near the top and this will allow me to squeeze it in to match my top rails.

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PostPosted: July 14, 2014, 11:33 am 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
With the wife out of town this weekend, I got to play in the shop. I closed up all the joints I felt I could and finally cut the frame loose from the build table.

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File comment: Finally off the table
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After flipping the frame over and closing up most of the joints on the bottom that sides of the tubes I put it back on the table and test fitted the engine. I am planning for the oil pan to hang down 1.5" below the frame. This should allow the engine to clear the bonnet without a scoop, based on my trial fits of the nose cone.

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File comment: And back on the table
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I sat and stared at the engine mounts for awhile contemplating different approaches. I wanted to use the 2265 chrysler mounts, as they are dirt simple and cheap, plus I already had two left over from my Fiero. I use the same mount on the fiero tranny. They allow the drivetrain to sit lower in the Fiero, and since I am using the 3.4 DOHC that is taller than the factory 2.8 it was necessary to lower the setup to clear the hood.

Making the engine side of the engine mounts was easy. A little angle iron and some 1/8" plate. I slotted the driver side to allow for engine removal. Deciding how I wanted to make the frame side of the mounts took longer. I even slept on it. For some reason at 1 AM the idea hit me and I ran out to the shop, in my skivvies and in the rain I might add, and mocked these up with tape and cardboard. I used round tube to make them look better and make it easier to get my fingers in to tighten up the nuts.

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File comment: Passenger Side Engine Mount
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File comment: Drivers Side Engine Mount
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Now that I had the engine in place, I temporarily blocked up the transmission to get my pinon angle correct based on the diff flange angle, and started working on the tunnel. I wanted to make the top tubes out of 1" round and made them first, then made the supports out of 1" square. I still need to add the triangulation. My plan is to make a bolt in cover out of steel or aluminum. Once I get my steering wheel in this week, I will mock up the stereing column and start working on the welded in scuttle.

Attachment:
File comment: Transmission Tunnel
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PostPosted: July 15, 2014, 4:56 pm 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
Received my steering wheel today. I ordered it a little earlier in the build than many do, but I wanted to have it before I started to build the scuttle. I splurged a little bit, but I wanted to have a good quality steering wheel. It is an OMP Trecento 300 mm with NRG 2.5 quick release. The hub for the Miata column is scheduled to be here Thursday. The hand grip is approximately 1" in diameter and feels really good in my hands. The quick release is easy to work and only locks into place in one position so I don't need to worry about the alignment getting messed up when I pull the steering wheel off. I also opted for a steering wheel with the yellow stripe. Some think its cheesy or ricey, but it will give the car an even sportier feel (like it will need that).

It came with a 1.5" diameter OMP logo for the horn button, but I will probably wait and install a 2" lotus logo when I have the time and money to deal with those kind of details.

On to the picture......ignore the messy desk

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PostPosted: July 16, 2014, 12:28 pm 
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Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
Posts: 2885
Location: Oregon, usually
FieroReinke wrote:
The hub for the Miata column is scheduled to be here Thursday.
Tell us more. Where's it coming from, what does it cost, is there a part number?
FieroReinke wrote:
I also opted for a steering wheel with the yellow stripe. Some think its cheesy or ricey
If cheesy, it's cheddar. If ricey, it's either that GMO golden rice or basmati with lots of saffron. A white stripe would make it look cheesey a la muenster or provalone, and ricey would become self-explanatory.

(Note: I'm genuinely curious about the hub)

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PostPosted: July 16, 2014, 12:57 pm 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
The hub is a NRG SRK-160h. It is the short hub designed specifically for the mazda steering column.

https://www.getnrg.com/products/quick-release-kits/short-hub/srk-160h

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PostPosted: July 16, 2014, 2:34 pm 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
Speaking of the NRG hub, it was supposed to be delivered tomorrow, but came in early. Here are pics. The plan is to have the bottom of the hub flush with the dash panel.

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I will post pics tomorrow after I attach the hub to the quick release and to the column.

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PostPosted: July 17, 2014, 9:03 am 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
As promised, here is a picture of the hub and half the QR mounted to the Miata column. I don't plan on using the column mounted key cylinder so I need to remove it from the column. Anyone know how?

Attachment:
File comment: Hub and Quick Release on Miata Column
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File comment: Steering wheel attached to Miata Column
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I also went ahead and mounted the drivers seat. Since I am building the car for me, I hard mounted it exactly where I want it. Since I am tall, that means as far back as possible. I only tacked the mounts at this time, so when I fully weld them, I will take a picture and post it. Right now its mounted in four place. Very simple, two angle iron brackets at the front sides of the seat that are attached to the triangulation on the side of the frame and the tunnel. Two pieces of 1.5" x 1/8" flat stock bent to a 100° angle welded to a 1"16 ga cross bar. I will in the future also add a mount to the backrest of the seat securing it to the top of the rear panel framework. Right now its bolted in with 3/8" standard bolts. These will eventually be swapped out for rounded head allen bolts.

Attachment:
File comment: Seat bolted in place.
20140716_230841.jpg
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PostPosted: July 17, 2014, 10:50 am 
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Location: Cuba, MO
I also think I am going to run out of 1" 16 ga tubing. I am down to about 6 feet and I still need to do some more triangulation in the engine bay, transmission tunnel and rear of the car.

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PostPosted: July 23, 2014, 10:31 pm 
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Joined: March 20, 2011, 9:49 pm
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I am so totally gonna copy your engine mount design. It look like a good way to use a bunch of the 1" tubing I have that I cant use for my suspension.


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PostPosted: July 24, 2014, 12:08 am 
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Location: Cuba, MO
FYI Smith, tube going to the outer rail is 1" and the other 3 are 3/4". All .065" wall. I still plan on adding a 1" sq tube between the two rails under the mount to keep the weight of the engine from forcing the outer rail to the outside.

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PostPosted: July 30, 2014, 8:15 am 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
Posts: 390
Location: Cuba, MO
Picked up a E type Jag engine mount to use for my tranny mount. I think it will work out great. Basically its two pieces of angle iron with a 1/2 - 20 bolt welded between them. The head of the bolt is cut off so with it welded to the angle iron so the bolt it is essentially a stud. It is a little laborious to install. The mount bracket still needs to be cut from 1/8" plate and welded to the frame, I have a piece of 3/16 strip holding it right now.

1. Install engine, making sure the tranny clears the tranny mount bracket that will be welded to the frame
2. Install the bracket / stud to the tranny.
3. Then the mount is threaded onto the stud
4. Then the tranny is lowered onto the mount bracket that will be welded to the frame.
5. Tighten the bolts that secure the mount to the frame.

Hopefully I don't have to install and pull the engine too many times. It may end up being a two man job once all the panels are installed.

Attachment:
File comment: Tranny Mount
20140729_220909.jpg
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PostPosted: July 30, 2014, 1:15 pm 
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Location: Novato, CA
FieroReinke wrote:
I still plan on adding a 1" sq tube between the two rails under the mount to keep the weight of the engine from forcing the outer rail to the outside.

A very good idea. That outer tube is a long one.The first time you get the car out on a bumpy back road you'll appreciate the extra rigidity.


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PostPosted: August 4, 2014, 10:37 am 
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Joined: January 27, 2010, 1:11 pm
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Location: Cuba, MO
Spent some time in the shop this weekend working on the car. Finished the tranny tunnel triangulation. The tubes are only tacked as I am running on fumes in my bottle. I will try to get it refilled this week.

I also fitted the driver side R tube. The passenger side will have to wait. I am not sure I will even be able to put in a Y version. With the engine shifted to the pass side things get very tight. It would be running almost parallel to the main upper rail.

Attachment:
File comment: R tube
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I decided to cut out the square tube triangulating the cockpit and replace it with round. I can see this tube being used as a grab handle for the passenger and will be seen when sitting in the car, and I think round works better for this.

Attachment:
File comment: Cockpit triangulation
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Fabbed the roll bar mounts. Per SCCA, the top plate is 3/16" and the rest 1/8". Again these are only tacked until I get more gas. It was nice turning up the welder and welding the thicker metal.

Attachment:
File comment: Roll Bar Mounts
Roll Bar Mounts .jpg
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I started looking at suspension brackets. I think I will start with the rear once I get a piece of 1/2" threaded rod to help locate the brackets. I am glad I bought the brackets from Jack instead of making my own. This saved a lot of time and the end result will be better. I don't think I could have made brackets as nice or consistent as his.

Test fitted the nose cone once more, and this time with a strap. With a little bit of pressure I can get the sides to squeeze in to match the top rails, so it wont take much massaging to get the nose cone to fit properly with the dzus fasteners.

Attachment:
File comment: Nose Cone
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With the tranny mount complete I finished up the tunnel triangulation.

Attachment:
File comment: Tunnel
Tranny Tunnel.jpg
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PostPosted: October 14, 2014, 7:52 am 
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Joined: October 13, 2014, 8:23 am
Posts: 3
Location: Carrollton Texas
Hi Chris,
New here. Just have to ask where you got the steering wheel hub.



I like your idea of using the jag mounts. I am going a little different using the range rover mounts. Similar design.



Locost Haynes 7 Miata Build
What‘s red and smells like blue paint? Red Paint.
Learn from the mistakes of others. You wont live long enough to make all of them yourself.
"if you're ever gonna stand on it at all, stand on it now. the longer you wait, the slower you get".
A wise man once said that if you stand out in the rain, you will get wet.

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Learn from the mistakes of others. You wont live long enough to make all of them yourself.
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