LocostUSA.com

A very different outcome compared to last month. I completed all 4 runs. The video is of my last run which was my quickest. The alignment is complete rubbish and I need to lower the car a ton. But I had an absolute blast and am very happy with the car over all! I am claiming VICTORY on the day

https://youtu.be/aiJGBv4LHSE

Sorry for the bouncy camera

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Congratulations!

Noting your comments about the ride height, etc., are you happy with the braking and acceleration so far?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Lonnie,
The acceleration is pretty good, I am happy with it. The motor revs smoothly and has good power considering it isn't even chipped yet. Also, I have the stock T-bird gear in the diff (3.27). When I tear it down for final weld and paint, I will put a 4.10 in it which is what the BMW was originally equipped with.

Brakes: they stop fine but they feel squishy. I expected them to be pretty hard but they aren't. I don't know if that is because of the master cylinders that i selected or the pads which are stock replacement street pads. It could be that I still have air trapped in the system despite several bleeds.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I am planning to improve my suspension geometry now that I have some real world feel. I need to lower the car as much as practical, which I think is 3.5" from the bottom of the sump. This lowers the chassis 1.4" and I think it will make a big difference in the handling of the car.

Reworked Suspension

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I noticed your post about the Wishbone program, Gavin. I've never used it, so I can't help there, but there are some other programs folks use out on the web too. Plus there's always the manual methods, which are detailed in several books.

I use the Suspension Analyzer 2.4B program. It was a significant investment, but I knew I'd use it a lot after the build too, so it was worth it to me. You can integrate track or road data logging info with an optional module. That makes what you build in the design phase useful in the real world tuning effort after the car is built.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I am completing the wiring and have it almost all done. An issue I am having is the turn indicator light on the dash. I have only one instead of a light for each direction and I can't figure out how to wire it correctly. I tried tapping in to the 49 wire at the flasher (red to wire and black to ground) and it works but it also completes the circuit so it flashes even with the hazards and turns off. I tried tapping into the 49 wire at the turn signal and it doesnt create a circuit but it stays illuminated even with hazards and turn off.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Mnot

Is your flasher a 3 prong one, if so than the third prong should be wired to your indicator light which also then goes to ground. That way once you active the turn signal switch you have power going through the flasher to the lights on that side of the car.

From what I see of your diagram the indicator is wired in the wrong place and should go to what you have as a ground on the flasher.

The way I see your diagram is that power is going through the flasher to the indicator to a ground thus having the light on at all times.

Hope this helps.

Red

Red, Do you mean to run from the flasher ground tab (pin31) to the positive wire of the indicator, and then ground the negative wire of the indicator? IF so, it didnt work. Any time i interrupt the ground it wont flash. I am using a 3 prong LED flasher, Navita EP36

http://novitatech.com/?q=aftermarket/products/electronic-flashers/ep36

This is the full diagram that Chuck suggested and it works great. The exception is that it has separate dash indicators for left and right.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Can't you just run the L dash light and R dash light off the turn signal switch to the same indicator light?

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Trochu Motor League

Wouldn't that create a "bridge" between L and R and cause both to blink regardless of direction?

Disclaimer: I know almost nothing about electrical things

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Just put in a one way current valve.

I don't either, it might (slowly lowers hand and avoids eye contact).

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Trochu Motor League

A one way current valve (aka: diode) will work as shown below. This would work with this schematic or the one that I did earlier. Diodes number 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4003 etc will work just fine.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I think Red's idea may work with a thermal flasher, not "electronic" for low load leds.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Yo, Gavin! Congrats, Man, you done did it! Well done, good on ya!

Sorry I'm so late in getting back to you. Been a rough week at work, only just came up for air...

Peace, Love and Wiggly Cameras-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Once I completed the autocross event, I decided to call the SC inspector that I was assigned to, now that I have a VIN, in order to get an idea of the time line and what would be "inspected". I expected to get an answer of 2-4 months, hold your breath and wait.... Nope, she was super nice and accommodating and said that she would be in my town in 2 days and would be able to inspect the car. That sent me into a frenzy to get the lights working correctly (see earlier posts) in order to get her approval and thus, a registration, title, and tags. Our appointment was to be today, but she called out sick so I am hoping to reschedule for later this week. Send good karma and stay tuned....

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005