LocostUSA.com

Lonnie - holy crap, are you using surgical steel for your project?? That is some clean and shiny scrap!! THANK YOU for suggesting the smaller wire, it is much much easier to use. the thicker wire made me feel like I had to hurry.

I have made some minor progress but it is progress...

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Glad to help.

I've just gotten in the habit of prepping every weld and wire brushing after welding. It takes time, but I think it gives better results and the clean-up lets you see your true bead pattern better. That's why they look shiny.

Your project's looking good.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

what he said. cleanup at of the base metals is key prior to striking the first spark.




also what he said.

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

What is the preferred method of prepping the steel before welding? Simple green and a scotch brite pad?

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Acetone is what I normally use. A clean stainless steel brush or sand paper are good are removing stuff that isn't oil. I'm sure there is a special name for it but you can get 1" wide rolls of sand paper at HF - a strip of that stuff easily gets through mill scale and other contaminants.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

What I used was a spray bottle of window deicer that I think was mainly alcohol but it really worked at removing the oily film prier to welding.

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John - Slow and Steady. . . Well slow anyway
Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245

I saw a product on a few of the DIY car shows that i wonder if anyone has used. it is called welding primer. not sure if it is a generic product or proprietary. thoughts?

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

So, the estimate in the FAQ of "how much tubing do I need" isn't even close for the haynes build + a newbie. i originally bought 120' of 1x1 and have completed the main chassis and i am out of tubing i haven't done the transmission tunnel or the rear suspension/diff section. i have some miscuts but my scrap bucket doesn't have that much in it. I calculate that i need about 47' more so i will buy 60 or maybe 80 since i will be adapting the Haynes to fit the T-bird bits. so, at this point I am halted until i get to the jy or the metal supplier.

i added up all of the pieces in the appendix rounding a bit and came up with 1100" for what i have already built.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

It's hard to know the value added of products like that. It could be great stuff and do something special, but you don't need it. One offroad fabricator I know of sprays all this joints with anti-splatter spray like you use on the copper welding nozzles, so they'll be really pretty. Maybe that product has a similar chemical component to it?

Acetone is much better for dirty/oily metal IMHO. But, after the joints are all cleaned up and have been wiped down and brushed to bright metal previously, I just use alcohol to clean off sanding dust or similar light soiling.

You probably already know that acetone is extremely volatile and it's not good to breathe the fumes or leave your wipe up rags anywhere near the welding area. I try do do as much of the acetone work as possible outside, like cleaning up metal that's going to be cut up for the chassis. On the chassis you can't do much except ventilate as well as possible an take your chances.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I've used weldable primer on body repairs before. It is supposed to protect the metal between the sheets at joints where the paint cannot reach. I'm sure it is better than having bare metal sandwiched together with a very slight gap to hold moisture and salt. I wouldn't use it indoors - you're still burning paint when you weld.

I don't see any use for it on a tube framed car though since everything is welded and you do not have two untreated pieces of metal that are exposed to the elements touching each other.

The fun part is finding the stuff - you have to go to Napa or somewhere a little less fast and furious to find it.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

At the moment, the plan is to pick up my engine, tranny, DME, etc. this Wednesday! i have been unproductive over the last week or so because i didn't have the drivetrain to line things up and start on the back half of the chassis and TT. i hope to weigh the whole lump when i pick it up (engine and tranny will be together. Is there anything else i should weigh or measure? It is from a low milage 1992 E30 convertible. it has the M42 motor and the Getrag 240 manual transmission. I hope to get an M20 flywheel and starter so i can reduce the rotating weight by 13-15lbs.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

It was a good day yesterday!!!!! M42 with a get rag 240 transmission (5spd) and all necessary bits. It came out of a '92 cabriolet with 100k.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

sweet! that IS a good day or, rather. Das ist eine gute tag! Ja!

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

Ja, ich bin über aufgeregt!

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Now that the drive train is out and on the floor, i am really happy with my choice to use it. for the most part it is a pretty compact setup. The tranny is smaller than i remember which is good. The intake really adds to the height ~29" tall, but i think i can separate the 2 halves and make a log style intake mounted to the bottom half which might reduce torque a bit but i need the room so something has to give. reworking the intake will give me ~3" of clearance for the bonnet and i will probably have to mount the engine so the sump is 1-1.5" below the frame.

A question for you guys.... when do i cut the BR tube at the firewall? i am having trouble maneuvering the driveline into place for mock-up.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005