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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 11, 2017, 10:50 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Charlotte, NC
I haven't posted much lately but I have been working at on the 7 as much as I can. I got new rear calipers and painted all 4 calipers using the G2 epoxy paint. I am happy with the results.
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AND, I finally got my motor back!
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Now, I have to wait for the brown truck to bring presents....

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PostPosted: November 4, 2017, 9:39 am 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Moving as slow as molasses in January, but moving just the same
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PostPosted: November 5, 2017, 8:17 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
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Moving as slow as molasses in January, but moving just the same
Not to worry, bro... Moving is good. Moving carefully (sounds better than slow) usually equates to fewer mistakes. Not that I'd actually know that, but I've heard... :mrgreen:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: November 5, 2017, 8:37 am 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks JD. My goal is to hear the engine run, in the car, by New Years.

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PostPosted: November 5, 2017, 8:42 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Mnot wrote:
Thanks JD. My goal is to hear the engine run, in the car, by New Years.
I'd bet on that happening! How-some-ever, the main thing is still to have fun. As long as that happens, it's all good!

Oh, and when it does run, you will have to post a video (this is not optional!), or expect to be abused.
This can be a rough crowd, ya know??? :mrgreen:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: November 12, 2017, 9:28 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Charlotte, NC
I am certainly having fun and enjoying each milestone/accomplishment along the way. The engine is almost complete including the VW lifters which save about 30g each (hoping it will help at high revs). The problem is I haven't even started on wiring this thing and I am a little overwhelmed. the lights and stuff aren't the problem but the running circuits and computer needs for the EFI is a challenge. I am also partially color blind so I will stick to some basic colors to keep it easy. a back story to that, I tried to fix the horn on my 1970 MGB when I was 16 and hot wired the car instead :shock:

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PostPosted: November 20, 2017, 9:53 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I just ordered a whole bunch of electrical stuff. I am using SXL crosslink wire and braided wrap. Any suggestions or pointers?? I kept the colors to the 6 that I can confidently see (color blind).

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PostPosted: November 30, 2017, 3:18 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
Posts: 42
just read through your build. Looks good! I'm sure I will pull ideas for my suspension from yours. If needed, could I ask for a-arm measurements when I get to that point?


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PostPosted: December 14, 2017, 6:06 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I am happy to help and will gladly share any of my specs, successes, and mishaps to help others. you can post questions on my build site or shoot me an IM.

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PostPosted: December 29, 2017, 8:57 am 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Charlotte, NC
I have gotten a little more done recently. I got the motor back together and placed in the car using 325i motor mounts which are slightly shorter which lowers the motor and should clear the hood with no bubble or cutout neededI.
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bought a metal brake/break? to start on the firewall etc.
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I changed my "design" to put the firewall in front of the cowl so I can remove it to access the wiring etc. I bought some door edge molding and it works perfectly to line the edge of the aluminum. I also roughed in the fuse panel but I have started on wiring yet because I ordered the wrong connecter.
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lastly I decided to abandon the Miata gauges and go with VDO cockpit gauges. they were on sale on Amazon for 30% off over the holidays which helped make the decision for me. Below are printouts of the gauges trying to see how I want to lay them out. I don't have any of the switches yet but I plan to put them directly below the small gauges and then the brake bias, kill switch, and accessory power socket in the center section below (in front of shifter).
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PostPosted: December 31, 2017, 4:08 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Looking nice.

Cheers, and Happy New Year

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 1, 2018, 1:55 am 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 4:44 pm
Posts: 1419
Location: Charlotte, NC
Looking good Gavin. Happy new year!

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PostPosted: January 1, 2018, 3:30 am 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
I like a nice clean dash. Your's is clean!

Cheers and Happy New Year to all!

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PostPosted: January 1, 2018, 10:27 am 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks guys! I wonder if the dash is too tall. by that I mean, there is a lot of real estate below the gauges compared to the caterham and other builds. Your thoughts are welcomed...

And Happy New Year!!!

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PostPosted: January 1, 2018, 3:57 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
As it happens, I'm just finishing up my dash today, and it's not a lot different from yours. I had the same concerns while designing it (what to do with all that area under the center gauges), and here are a few pics of what I did, & how it's turned out (so far, anyway!). It isn't perfect, and there's still some blank space below the switch panel, but it's a lot better than it was without it. I think it turns an "issue" (ugly switch gear, etc., which I thought would look unfinished if they just came through the dash willy-nilly) into a "feature".

BTW, the dash is 14 gauge aluminum, covered with automotive, outdoor-grade vinyl.

Covering the dash with vinyl was new to me (never done anything like that before), and it was a bit of a challenge, but I think it turned out okay. There will be a rubber combing on the entire length of the bottom edge including the clock panel (i.e., 1/4" i.d. rubber tubing, slit lengthwise & pushed onto the edge - I think it will protect the lower edge of the vinyl, and give a "soft" edge to the dash).

Clearly, I'm an "old school" kind of guy, which you can tell from my design.

Dash, overall -

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and with the glove box open (the light's not on inside, as it's not powered up at the moment - works great, though):

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And some detail of the polished aluminum center switch panel. Looks scratched up with the camera flash, but will be mirror polished again when final installation is done. The holes at either end of the polished panel are for the choke cable (left side) and heater pull cable (right side):

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I know it's not to everyone's taste, but I spent a couple of years, on & off, designing and building this, and I hope someone else can get some ideas from it...

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