LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently September 17, 2019, 4:27 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 490 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 ... 33  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: February 28, 2014, 1:11 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 4003
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Mnot wrote:
. . . <SNIP> . . .
A question for you guys.... when do i cut the BR tube at the firewall? i am having trouble maneuvering the driveline into place for mock-up.


The BR10 (BR12 too) are only cut after the chassis is fully welded to minimize distortion. You could probably figure out a work-around if it's critical that you remove it, but you probably don't have to do that. Depending on how much of your chassis is in place now, you may be able to take it off the build table and slide it under your eng./trans. combo hanging on slings or chains for a trial fit.

If you have the Champion book too, look at the bottom of page 48 for a photo of that process. If you need the help, I can probably scan that photo for you and post it here.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 28, 2014, 4:12 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
it nice to know i am not the only one with that crazy idea. i considered doing it but talked myself out of it. More Guiness and i might have talked myself back into trying it. i remember reading that those tube are cut after final welding but was trying to figure out how to get it in there. I don't have the Champion book but i understand your suggestion. i went to HF today and bought a load leveler for the crane to help maneuver the big lump. i have also removed a few things from the motor hoping to slim it down. i hope to post pictures of my victory this weekend.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 28, 2014, 6:05 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 11, 2012, 5:20 am
Posts: 27
Location: Lithuania
Check that: http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=594.0


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 2, 2014, 7:57 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
thank you for the heads-up! i will be sure to address it when I replace all of the gaskets.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 2, 2014, 8:20 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
Victory!!! ok, its a small one but I'll take it.

the engine fits pretty well. I think i might be able to use the stock engine mounts but i might have to shave the passenger side mount a little. the total height of the engine is 27.5" and the sump is about 1.75" lower than the bottom of the bell housing. it seems that i will have plenty of room for the steering shaft and hydraulics. the motor is placed where it is because the sump is pushed all the way to the driver side, it tilts so much i don't think it would fit in anything smaller than a Haynes.

what is the "typical" amount of clearance between the bottom of the chassis and the top of the motor? it looks like i will have 25-26" if i don't redo the intake.


Attachments:
File comment: vvvvrrrrooooommmmm
vroom.jpeg
vroom.jpeg [ 243.82 KiB | Viewed 4065 times ]
WD_0035.jpeg
WD_0035.jpeg [ 246.22 KiB | Viewed 4065 times ]
WD_0034.jpeg
WD_0034.jpeg [ 200.97 KiB | Viewed 4065 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 2, 2014, 1:22 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 4003
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Congratulations. It looks to fit well and the motor mounts look like they're just about where they need to be. From your photos, I can't tell where the shifter will be, but that's always something to check too.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 2, 2014, 7:51 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 11, 2012, 5:20 am
Posts: 27
Location: Lithuania
Lonnie-S wrote:
Congratulations. It looks to fit well and the motor mounts look like they're just about where they need to be. From your photos, I can't tell where the shifter will be, but that's always something to check too.

Cheers,



For this gearbox shifter is very easy to relocate, because it is just two linkages.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 10, 2014, 7:56 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
i got a little work done this weekend. I altered my table by adding a 4x4 post to the front of it and then another leg in the center of that to help support the weight of the motor and allow me to lower the motor in the chassis while keeping the chassis flat on the table. Once i did that, i was able to mock up some motor mounts. the sump hangs down about 1 3/8" below the bottom of the chassis.


Attachments:
WD_0040.jpeg
WD_0040.jpeg [ 205.57 KiB | Viewed 3951 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 18, 2014, 9:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
Now that the engine and tranny are pretty much in their place, i have to setup the diff. I changed to the Explorer diff cover and I like it much better than the T-bird setup (thanks Yohan). It seems like it will be easier to mount this way and be a better setup for my whopping 130 ft-lbs of torque!! How to mount the front of the diff is another story but, i might have found a rather simple solution.

Imagine the blue tape is a 1x1 tube crossing between the SB tubes. The cardboard is a 2x1 channel that is bent to match the 17* of the SB. The nut would be fully welded and a gusset/plate would be added to connect the vertical SB tubes to the diff mount.

What do you think???


Attachments:
File comment: proposed front diff mount
WD_0045.jpeg
WD_0045.jpeg [ 218.58 KiB | Viewed 3886 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: March 31, 2014, 10:44 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
i got less than i had hoped done this weekend but something is well.... something. i made the diff mount from 1/8" plate 3" x 12". I tried to triangulate it the best I can using some left over plate and a 1x1. it is asymmetric because of the pinion part of the housing. I am using M12 bolts to suspend it between the SB4's. There will be ~17mm above the top of this mount and the cross bar of the seat back.

I'm not proud of the welds but I am pretty sure they will hold.


Attachments:
WD_0054.jpeg
WD_0054.jpeg [ 393.09 KiB | Viewed 3831 times ]
WD_0053.jpeg
WD_0053.jpeg [ 424.72 KiB | Viewed 3831 times ]
WD_0052.jpeg
WD_0052.jpeg [ 413.71 KiB | Viewed 3831 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 2, 2014, 12:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: August 11, 2012, 4:44 pm
Posts: 1423
Location: Charlotte, NC
How many degrees does that engine tilt? I thought the s2000 engine had a big tilt to it.

Great looking build so far. I don't quite understand how you made your diff mount but I'm sure I will once you bolt it in.

Little tip when welding ends that come to a peak. Try to leave a very small gap between the 2 pieces. This will allow for better penetration and won't leave the weld looking like a hump. Hope that helps.

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 3, 2014, 10:40 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
i don't remember exactly how many degrees of tilt for the engine but i think it is about 20*.

The diff mount is 2 pieces of 3" plate (1/8") welded together at 107* (90* +17*) to match the seat back angle. i then tried to triangulate/brace it the best i could with plate on the inside and 1x1 on the outside. i have a friend that is making the same thing for me with his brake so the plate will be 1 piece instead of 2 welded together. i will compare and see which will work best.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 15, 2014, 4:53 am 
Offline

Joined: August 11, 2012, 4:44 pm
Posts: 1423
Location: Charlotte, NC
Hey, just noticed you were in Charlotte. My folks stay in Huntersville. I'll be moving to Gastonia/Dallas area in 4 months. Getting out of the army and going to school at Gaston. Care if I stop by and give a hand/see what all the fuss is about these? Haha I usually try to go home and get some seat time at the track.

_________________
30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 17, 2014, 10:21 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
Briggs,
i just sent you a PM with my contact info.

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 17, 2014, 10:41 am 
Offline

Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
i have gotten a little done over the last few weeks. I remade the front diff hanger with a one piece 1/8" that a friend made with his brake. I then welded the two uprights on either side and reinforced the back. i decided to weld it to the cross bar to make it stronger. i think it should be up to the challenge.
Attachment:
File comment: Front Diff Mount (1/8" plate)
WD_0074.jpeg
WD_0074.jpeg [ 554.46 KiB | Viewed 3609 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: back of Front Diff Mount
WD_0073.jpeg
WD_0073.jpeg [ 523.32 KiB | Viewed 3609 times ]


I also created the diff cage / rear suspension mounts but haven't welded it up yet. I created an angled brace to go in front of the top diff tubes to prevent us from being speared in the back from a rear end collision. They terminate above the outer edge of the vertical diff tubes. i was hoping they would terminate a little farther in but then they wouldn't block the diff tubes. I plan to add more nodes there so i am not too worried.
Attachment:
File comment: Diff cage and SB diagonal brace
WD_0075.jpeg
WD_0075.jpeg [ 561.1 KiB | Viewed 3609 times ]


i also installed the shifter to see where it ends up and i think it is in a decent spot. I am planning to run the TT top tubes from front to back as shown at an angle that matches the sides. Since this is different from Gibb's plan i hope i don't paint myself into a corner by doing it this way.
Attachment:
File comment: TT Tubes at 4* angle to match sides
WD_0076.jpeg
WD_0076.jpeg [ 493.24 KiB | Viewed 3609 times ]

_________________
Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 490 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 ... 33  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY