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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 21, 2019, 11:14 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
In the frenzy to get ready for the inspection, I ordered and installed a VDO GPS speed sending unit. It could not be easier. The tachometer on the other hand was the polar opposite. I struggled for a year, yes, a YEAR trying to get that F*&^ing thing working and no dice. Upon multiple emails to VDO technical support, I learned that it needs more than the 5 volts that they told me originally. My ECU for the BMW M42 motor puts out from 4-6 volts depending on the revs. They suggested a pull-up-resistor but didnt offer what size :BH: . So, through trial and error, and YouTube videos for LS swaps, I determined that a 1k resistor did the trick and I now have a tach :)

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005


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PostPosted: August 22, 2019, 8:53 am 
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Joined: May 19, 2016, 8:46 am
Posts: 34
Location: Chesapeake Va.
Mnot

Sorry for the late come back, usually only go through posting once a day in the mornings.

Did not realize you were using an electronic flasher. My suggestion will not work with one.

Chuck provided you with a better way to deal with your problem.

Red


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PostPosted: August 23, 2019, 10:16 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I PASSED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I mailed the paperwork and the $15 check today. Hopefully I will have a title for a 1960 Lotus (Replica) in a few short weeks :D

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PostPosted: August 23, 2019, 10:33 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
After the Autocross I determined that the ride height was way too high and springs were too stiff. Somehow, with all of the changes with the suspension and mounting, the car gained ride height. My ideal, was to be able to clear a 4x4 piece of lumber because it actually happened to me in my GTI and I cringed going over it (i cleared it). So, that was my benchmark. For my sump to clear a 4x4, my frame would need to be 5.75". In order to accomplish this, I had to cut the upper shock mount and reduce the length, thereby increasing the shock angle. I gained several things from this change:
1. increased clearance of UCA - see question below
2. decrease effective spring rate (463 lbs/in stock spring from Suzuki SV1000)
3. eliminate the brace bar for the shock mount. Because it was so long originally, I ran a 3/4 x 0.120 tube from the top of the bottom tube of the frame up to the bottom of the upper shock mount.
4. reduced weight because of #3

Now that I have all of this space for the UCA, I am contemplating building new ones that are easier to adjust. Jack's design seems like it might work for me but I would have to install it in reverse orientation that he shows. I would also need to bend the forward tube which would have a heim and a clevis. I did my best to illustrate this forward tube shown in teal. the dotted line is the clevis mount (5/16" plate with a 5/16" bolt). My question is, is my orientation okay given the loads from braking? Or, will it try to tear itself apart?? The tube shown is 1.25" x 0.120 wall and the curved tube located in the front would be 1" x 0.120" wall.

Attachment:
IMG_2794-low.JPG
IMG_2794-low.JPG [ 250 KiB | Viewed 237 times ]


Jack's design:
Attachment:
ControlArmsNE1s.jpg
ControlArmsNE1s.jpg [ 32.31 KiB | Viewed 237 times ]

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PostPosted: August 24, 2019, 12:08 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 4005
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Congrats on passing the inspection, Gavin. That's huge!

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 24, 2019, 9:12 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks Lonnie. Soon we will have another Locost on the road!! Just in time for the fall weather when it is best to appreciate the open top design of the 7. Of course, it is far from done and i still have to dismantle the car to finish weld and paint the chassis but i will likely drive it around little bit just because I can (once i get tags).

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PostPosted: August 25, 2019, 7:54 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
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Of course, it is far from done and i still have to dismantle the car to finish weld and paint the chassis but i will likely drive it around little bit just because I can (once i get tags).
Uhhh... You need to look up some Locost history related to one Dave Hempy. Dave is one of the original members of the forum and still does the work behind the scenes to keep it up and running. He took his Locost for a test drive before he finished welding the chassis with some disastrous results. :cry:

He also slipped out to the garage in his skivvies and took pictures of the headlight buckets and posted them. With his reflection in the shiny new chrome headlight showing all the world his (lack of) attire. But that's another story... :mrgreen:

Maybe you meant drive AFTER disassembly and final weld, in which case, sorry for the sermon.
If you meant it the way I read it, beee carefullll!!!

Peace, Love and "Can't wait to drive it!" --
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: August 25, 2019, 11:59 am 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
GonzoRacer wrote:
He also slipped out to the garage in his skivvies and took pictures of the headlight buckets and posted them. With his reflection in the shiny new chrome headlight showing all the world his (lack of) attire.

A bit over dressed in my humble opinion, don't think JD? :rofl:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
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PostPosted: August 25, 2019, 9:01 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
Thank you for your concern JD! I meant it how you read it but the truth is that it is 90% welded. All the suspension and main components of the chassis are welded. What is not welded are the tubes I added beyond the typical chassis tubes. For example, the triangulation of the rear roll bar brace, Of course there are a few places that I have noticed that got missed and want to be sure that I double check the entire chassis before moving onto paint and body. I may also redo a few early welds just for confidence :cheers:

-gavin

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PostPosted: August 28, 2019, 9:17 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
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Location: Charlotte, NC
As I mentioned earlier, at the autocross I noticed that the car was just too high. So, I shortened the upper mounts front and rear. This changed the angle of the front for the better because the spring rate is better (it was too stiff) and I gained a ton of clearance between the UCA and the shock. I shortened the rear mount by 30mm. Now, my chassis rails are 145mm in front and 155mm in the rear with my sump 90mm. Here is the V-susp and Wishbone figures:

Final Suspension Figures

Attachment:
wishbone.jpg
wishbone.jpg [ 167.64 KiB | Viewed 121 times ]

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