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I cut up the stock S2000 exhaust header and tried to design exit tubing to accommodate the space and side exit of the car. But it appeared to be too difficult and I decided to fabricate a header from scratch. After purchasing some 1.75" 180 degree bends and 90 degree bends I started down that path.


The stock S2000 manifold is really more of a header configuration rather than a manifold per se (picture a cast iron manifold). The configuration is a 4 - 2 - 1 type so I followed that design. The header progresses from 1.75" tube to 2" to 2.5" tubing. I also decided to split up the header flange into three parts for ease of fabrication and welding. I kept the two pieces of the header separate so I could remove each piece from the engine and pull the piece out from the top without removing the engine first. I'm not sure that's such an advantage. You can see in the pictures I used two "V" band clamps to connect the pieces.

Boy if you were in the header business or planned to fabricate a number of headers, IC Engine Works has some neat modeling equipment that allows a simulated header to be put together from a number of plastic pieces and then duplicated in metal. I wish I had something like this to simplify the fabrication.
http://www.icengineworks.com/






Now on to finding a quiet muffler (or maybe two). I've read some of the past posts on this subject but this is a rather subjective topic and hard to find the right one without trying one. Everyone's got their level pain (or pleasure) when it comes to engine sounds.

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

That's a great looking header. Love the design. You'll need 2 mufflers or 1 really long one. Those engines are really throaty. They sound great.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Nice job on the headers Dave W

Ditto. Nice job.

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Sweet header for sure, well done!

I am up in Sebastopol and would love to chat 408 314-4211 thanks, T. J.

Finished welding up the roll bar and fabricating the attachment brackets for a bolt -in bar. So I thought it was time to roll out the chassis for a look in the sun. I think I'm going to tackle the fenders and aluminum siding next. Things are slowing down a bit so I've got to get re-motivated for the next push.

Cheers, Roy

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

As I mentioned in my last post, it's time to buy some aluminum sheet and start the outer and inner panels. I forgot how much aluminum sheet it took so after measuring I bought three sheets of 4 ft. by 8 ft., 0.040" 3003 H14 (half hard) aluminum.

I also forgot how thin and soft this stuff is but it is easy to bend and cut. You've got to be very careful not to dent the material.

The outer and inner panels are pretty much cut and I'm still fitting some of the inner panels. The panels are not fastened in place until I disassemble the chassis and paint. I made a special offset panel located at the driver's right foot position for extra clearance for the throttle foot. It comes pretty close to the transmission side. I had to cut a hole to allow the clutch slave bleed valve to penetrate.

Once I've painted the chassis I will re-assemble the chassis and fit the back piece in place.

Roy

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

I completed the side skin panels and the interior panels. All have been fitted and ready to be permanently installed once the chassis is either painted or powder coated. I'm currently leaning towards powder coating many of the pieces and the chassis. I'm trying to finish all the necessary brackets and fittings that need to be welded to the chassis before the final coating (either paint or powder). I know there will always be something that needs to be welded on and it gets messy with it all coated.

I installed the rear fenders and fabricated the necessary brackets. I also fabricated the front fender mounts or brackets using some of the ideas from a previous post.

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7832&hilit=front+fenders

The S2000 front hubs had two holes already drilled into the body of the forging. They were a perfect size for tapping using a 12 mm tap and they make a great bolt mounting point. I tried to get fancy and only use one mounting bolt location but soon realized the fender bracket and fender could rotate some with only one attachment point. So I used both points with some good success.

The front fender mounting brackets were easy to fabricate with the wheel resting flat on the build table and the hub, brake disk and brake caliper in place inside the wheel. I located the center line of the steering arm with respect to the front of the fender so both fenders would match. I used wood blocking to keep the fender about 1" from the tire and used a hold-down strap to secure the fender to the tire. With all components locked in place the bracket pieces could be cut and tack welded in place.

Both the front and rear fenders are aluminum and manufactured by "Fenders N More". The ordering was somewhat of an experience, the story of which I'll save for another time. Now to disassemble everything and prep the chassis for completion.

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

With the fenders and all of the aluminum skin pieces done, I made a list to check off all the various brackets and braces needed for completion of the chassis. The goal was to get the chassis blasted and then powder coated. My first Locost was painted by first sanding and scraping off the surface rust that had accumulated over the months of construction, and then applying a good rust inhibiter primer and finally a semi-gloss black top coat. I've read many of the logs and posts that discuss the pros and cons of paint versus powder coat and decided to try powder coat. The big disadvantage is the problem of touch up if you have to weld or machine the chassis after powder coating. That's why I made an extensive list of items needed to be done before coating hoping to avoid this problem. We'll see if I succeeded.

The powder coating has been completed, taking about 10 days all together. They use some silicone plugs for the treaded nuts and holes you don't want powder to enter. They also use some type of fiberglass tape for any surfaces you don't want coated.

See the photos for the results. Now it's on to full assembly.

Roy

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

Wow! I have to wonder if the person survived the wallop that S2000 got on the driver's side. That was a hard hit.
Roy, I really like your Miata based car with the clam shell fenders. It turned out great. I'm going to build one like it next year.

Your foot pedals look a little close together. Can you press the brake with your shoes on an not hit the clutch or gas pedal?

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Skip-
As far as I know the original owner of the S2000 survived the left side crash. He may of had a headache for awhile though! My final conclusion though is to not buy a car from the midwest or east because of the salted roads! You should have seen the rust on the old brake rotors.

Paul-
I have played with the pedal locations and they are adjustable somewhat. By moving over the clutch pedal and with the recess on the right side for the accelerator foot I think it works out OK. Won't know for sure until I drive the car for the first time. This is a common problem with many of our Locosts as many of you know. You notice I haven't designed the final gas pedal yet until the first good trial.

And I've still got your note about the immobilizer chip on the ECU. That's one of future jobs which is to complete the wiring for the S2000 engine.

Cheers,
Roy

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

The wiring was the thing that scared me the most but turned out to be fairly simple. If you get stuck let me know and if I can point you in the right directionI will.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

looking at the clutch bleed nipple, I could see me (if it were my car) catching my right foot on it and perhaps breaking or bending it. can you create some type of protection so it doesn't happen? I could be as simple as a big nut welded on that gives you enough ID to access the nipple.

Great build, keep going, the finish line is in sight

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005