LocostUSA.com

You could probably use a smaller radiator, making it easier to fit in the nose cone, if you positioned it closer to vertical.

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Trochu Motor League

Hi all! I haven't posted in 2 years but I'll add some updates soon. The radiator was not mounted that way; I just had it laying in there to check the width

Hey, good to see you back. Are you done yet? Looking forward to the updates.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Well, I am about 3 years into it and can see light at the end of the Locost tunnel! My guess is that I have 2 more years to go.

July 2016 I got laid off from my job, but luckily with 6 months severance. Since then I have been working for myself, so now I REALLY need to hustle and work at my REAL job, so the Locost project has languished for a while.

At this point, the chassis is done and painted and I just riveted and bonded the floor & rear bulkheads in (.050 aluminum with CherryLock 5/32" flush rivets, 2" spacing) and the sides (.032" aluminum, also CherryLocks).

I will try to post some photos and details in the most chronological order.

One of my goals is to try and repurpose most of the SVT Mustang, so instead of an inline fuel pump I decided to use the Mustang's in-tank pump. I think it will be quieter too. In the photos you can see the bracket and electrical connections I fabricated.

I hung the stock Mustang sending unit inside a plastic tank as well on the Justang. Mine was a just flat stock bent in a big U shape, with only two of the bolts holding it on. What a pain in the butt it was to install or remove!

Here's the hanger and sender
https://www.instagram.com/p/x0qLfLDVaB/?hl=en&taken-by=thugasaur

Here's the tank
https://www.instagram.com/p/6naMrkDVZa/?hl=en&taken-by=thugasaur

Here's the car at its first GRM challenge, $2015.
https://www.instagram.com/p/9L5H-FjVbM/?hl=en&taken-by=thugasaur

And just to gloat, here's Al Unser JR driving it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/9MkuMajVRp/?hl=en&taken-by=thugasaur

Nice work on your bracket! My car didn't have that plastic module; just the S shaped steel bracket. Seems to be pretty robust so I adapted it to the tank as shown. My level sender came with the tank that I bought from Jack.

Regarding the previous comment about the radiator; I wasn't intending to mount it lying flat. I just had it laying in there to see how much clearance I was going to have. I went with a widened nose and can fit in a fairly large radiator (same as Rod's Locost 5.0). Here are some photos of how I mounted it. Also, I made my own thermostat housing, added a heater hose port to the electric water pump, did some fabrication of the radiator shroud and duct work, made a fiberglass molded duct, etc., etc.



Here's the duct I made;

Mold made with foam board and mold release so that I could remove the molded part;









Here's the top opening. The bottom of the radiator will duct to the sides behind the control arms.

Some radiator mounting and ducting details

Here's the thermostat housing I made








Here's my heater hose modification for the electric water pump

Here's some pedal stuff

Hey, that's some very interesting work you're doing. I'll be interested to see how your radiator ducting works out. I like your homemade gas pedal too - just don't drive that car barefoot.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

LongIslandLocost, I can't see any of your pics...but it looks like Lonnie-S can. Anybody else having problems viewing the pics in these posts?

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

I'm seeing them fine.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Thanks Lonnie! No, I never plan to drive barefoot, especially with that pedal! I intentionally made it very aggressive so that in that tight pedal box my foot is less likely to slip off.

I spent a lot of time thinking about, designing, and still building the ductwork. I am pretty sure my ideas will work; but let's see when it's 100F and I am in bumper to bumper traffic! With the electric water pump and big fan I think I'm good. If it doesn't work, I will first modify the radiator so that it has triple pass water flow. If that doesn't work I can always remove the ducting and let the air flow over the engine and out the bottom/sides.

Note that my duct will be split; about 2/3 of the air flow area is out the top of the nose cone and 1/3 will pass low over the steering rack and flow out under the engine (perhaps!) but more so out of vents that will be built into the bodywork surrounding the control arms and exhaust.