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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 4, 2018, 11:36 pm 
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trialsmangasgas wrote:
Cup holders???? Really???? Hope your cups have tight lids the way you drive!!!! TeeHee. Looking good. Russ

You leave my lids out of it.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 4, 2018, 11:45 pm 
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Thanks guys. Oh man to see the stuff come together is pretty cool. I have a lot to do in the next 2 weeks and I am missing next weekend to tour a couple colleges :ack: We are at that point.
I also have a friend of the family who is a machinist and took on my rebuild project of the windscreen mounts. I want to remake them from stainless to aluminum. So he sent me a wood model and is now making a rough set of mounts to place and make sure they will work. It’s going to delay the license and title paperwork I had hoped to send in this month.
We’re making the base bigger. Right now it’s 3” long and going to 4”. That’s it everything will work great as is. I also want to make a band of aluminum that fits over the scuttle to mount these to. Any ideas are appreciated. What gauge and how to make it. These bases will be tapped from below so top is clean.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 5, 2018, 11:35 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Wow, you're developing some seriously nice touches with those windshield mounts. Very nice.

I don't have any construction advise, but I would advise finishing your build before anyone starts college next fall. It's like installing a vacuum tube to your wallet. :mrgreen:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 5, 2018, 6:38 pm 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
Lonnie-S wrote:
Wow, you're developing some seriously nice touches with those windshield mounts. Very nice.

I don't have any construction advise, but I would advise finishing your build before anyone starts college next fall. It's like installing a vacuum tube to your wallet. :mrgreen:

Cheers,

Lonnie I can believe that sucking sound. Where else can you spend $2-4K a week. Would be nice to make that. He’s going to be writing for quite a few scholarships to ease that cost. If this car isn’t on the road this summer someone may get hurt. It’s gotten to be mandatory.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 11, 2018, 2:47 pm 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
Spent about 12hrs yesterday in the garage, was awesome. Installed coil overs, drilled and tapped fenders. I have some bolt trim rings coming for the fenders and scuttle. Made the new scuttle skin then cut it an inch short on both sides. Why I don’t know. Moved on to making my windscreen bracket. I had an idea on how to start it and I think it went well. I am going to wait till next weekend to bend it up. Have to get more aluminum for a new scuttle. I want to put the rivnuts in all at once. Also made some trim rings, now my upholsterer (that speaks limited English) needs to get me some boots. The last trim ring for the shifter he covered in vinyl. Unreal, Evidently he doesn’t like shiny stuff like I do.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 18, 2018, 7:41 pm 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
https://youtu.be/So7lVH4ERZQ
https://youtu.be/tvpaNmJ3MCA
So here is my link. Clutch works finally. Needs some pedal adjustment or something. Went in gear right away. Took it out of gear and it wouldn’t go in. Weird. Picked up my seats and installed belts.
Got bit pretty good from the aluminum last night. I feel pretty good I can get it to the car show on Thursday.


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MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782


Last edited by Tundra 7 on March 18, 2018, 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 18, 2018, 7:59 pm 
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Way to go Steve. :cheers:

Time to start the registration process if you haven't done so already. You need to get that done for The Gathering.
:zoom:

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 18, 2018, 8:38 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Way to go Steve. :cheers:

Time to start the registration process if you haven't done so already. You need to get that done for The Gathering.
:zoom:

I don’t have my windscreen brackets yet. A family friend is making them for me and he’s retired so you know he’s on a different schedule. I’ll have to send him a email and perk him up

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 18, 2018, 11:47 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Thanks for the videos. Congrats on the big step. You're gunna have fun with that one.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 19, 2018, 12:10 am 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
Steve,

Can you throw Tuner Studio at the car? Sounds like it's too rich down low.

Still a great accomplishment. Build looks great.

Cheers.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 19, 2018, 6:17 am 
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benny_toe wrote:
Steve,

Can you throw Tuner Studio at the car? Sounds like it's too rich down low.

Still a great accomplishment. Build looks great.

Cheers.

Larry it’s horribly rich. I was hoping to get it on there tonight and Tuesday night to see if it can clean it up. Do you know how fast that program auto tunes?

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 19, 2018, 6:24 pm 
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Took the car for a s[in with the auto tune on. I'll tell you what it is fast in the changes. As long as you bring on the throttle slow and let the computer have a chance at it it works. I think a few more times it will have it. I wasn't dressed for it. Got home from work and jumped in it. 32degrees the only thing keeping me warm was adrenaline. my clutch works great. I have to adjust the pedal. I have about 4 times more throw than what it needs. Pedal depressed about an 1-1/2 or so thats it. Tranny is smooth short strokes. The springs actually feel good. They dance around out there not bouncy seem very grounded. All I need is windscreens and mirrors. I have the roll bars just need to weld them up. This car show will slow me up this weekend. Thanks Larry.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 20, 2018, 12:20 am 
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Location: Cornelius OR
Always start tuning with the hot idle, get the motor good and hot. Thermostat must be open.
Make sure you are out of any trim areas WUE ASE etc.
Remember WUE should end at 100% just before or very near the thermostat set point (you can fine tune this later)
You should not be using any of these for hot idle, and you cant tune a cold motor.
You tune a hot motor and then adjust the trims to get it to run cold.

To tune idle first disable closed loop idle control. Set idle speed manually
Disable O2 correction, & always tune on a fully warmed motor.
Add 1 or 2 degrees in the spark table below your target idle speed.
(this will help the motor recover from a sag, especially automatic trans)
Check that WUE ends at no less than 100% and at a temp slightly lower than tstat opening. (100% is no change to the fuel calculation)
Make all the cells used for normal idle (a square of 9 cells) in the lower left of your VE table the same number.
Start the motor and adjust the throttle stop so the motor will run steady 700 - 900 rpm.
Then highlight all the cells in the lower left corner, and use the up or down arrows to change them all.
Adjust to make the motor happy not shooting for a specific AFR.
(many try to set at 14.7, few if any motors will idle there)
You want the smallest number that provides a smooth stable idle (lean best)
Note the AFRs in that area and change your AFR table so Auto Tune does not change them back.
(I lock out those cells when using Auto Tune.)
Another reason to adjust the AFR table in the idle area is O2 correction will try to steer AFRs in that direction
Then you can make final adjustments to the individual cells to fine tune.
Always make final tuning adjustments on a fully warmed up motor (thermostat open).
Then if auto put trans in gear and fine tune again (different cells).

Now you can enable closed loop idle and return the throttle stop to just barely open.
I set the throttle stop to just barely open because gack from the PCV will collect around the blade opening and close it up over time.
Not closed so far it sticks (if using closed loop idle).

All of the other adjustments use the hot idle settings as a base and modify them for different conditions.
Now once a day you have the chance to make observations for altering WUE settings.
Also cranking squirts and ASE

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 20, 2018, 6:27 am 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
Bent Wrench wrote:
Always start tuning with the hot idle, get the motor good and hot. Thermostat must be open.
Make sure you are out of any trim areas WUE ASE etc.
Remember WUE should end at 100% just before or very near the thermostat set point (you can fine tune this later)
You should not be using any of these for hot idle, and you cant tune a cold motor.
You tune a hot motor and then adjust the trims to get it to run cold.

To tune idle first disable closed loop idle control. Set idle speed manually
Disable O2 correction, & always tune on a fully warmed motor.
Add 1 or 2 degrees in the spark table below your target idle speed.
(this will help the motor recover from a sag, especially automatic trans)
Check that WUE ends at no less than 100% and at a temp slightly lower than tstat opening. (100% is no change to the fuel calculation)
Make all the cells used for normal idle (a square of 9 cells) in the lower left of your VE table the same number.
Start the motor and adjust the throttle stop so the motor will run steady 700 - 900 rpm.
Then highlight all the cells in the lower left corner, and use the up or down arrows to change them all.
Adjust to make the motor happy not shooting for a specific AFR.
(many try to set at 14.7, few if any motors will idle there)
You want the smallest number that provides a smooth stable idle (lean best)
Note the AFRs in that area and change your AFR table so Auto Tune does not change them back.
(I lock out those cells when using Auto Tune.)
Another reason to adjust the AFR table in the idle area is O2 correction will try to steer AFRs in that direction
Then you can make final adjustments to the individual cells to fine tune.
Always make final tuning adjustments on a fully warmed up motor (thermostat open).
Then if auto put trans in gear and fine tune again (different cells).

Now you can enable closed loop idle and return the throttle stop to just barely open.
I set the throttle stop to just barely open because gack from the PCV will collect around the blade opening and close it up over time.
Not closed so far it sticks (if using closed loop idle).

All of the other adjustments use the hot idle settings as a base and modify them for different conditions.
Now once a day you have the chance to make observations for altering WUE settings.
Also cranking squirts and ASE

Thanks Bent, I’ll have to check the one value between WUE and the stat opening temp. It idles great. Push the button it fires right up. I don’t think it spins over twice. It will idle right to no problem. I’ll check how many squares I have on the bottom for idle I have a box of them may be 9. Thanks tonight I’ll make another run around the block. This time with a hat and gloves.

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My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: March 20, 2018, 9:30 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 5326
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
You're a very exciting stage, Steve. Remember to take the Go Pro (or equivalent) along too.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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