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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 9:23 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Easier way, though holding the outer boards during setup is awkward. Screw straps (cut from old blue jeans?) with 1/2" deck screws to the lower boards then screw those straps to the upper boards already clamped in place. Good ratchet strap sets can be found at home depot or lowes along with the threaded rod described below.

If the overhang of the skin over the buck is a lot, add a 2x4 to the end of the buck then add the angle iron to the 2x4. You can also drill the angle iron and use a long threaded 1/2" rod instead of clamps, plus the rod can't slip like a c clamp can.

If you bend it a little too far, it is easier to spread it than it was to bend it.

I thought it was a typo about 3004, thinking it was 3003 but either is fine. 3004 may have a harder heat treatment. You can anneal the bend area but it would take a long time with a bottle torch but safe. A rose bud on oxy actylene is highly effective but can quickly ruin a panel without experience.

It is a typo it’s 3003. Any way I did this. I have a lot of clamps and 2 ratchet straps. When you sinch it up tight that’s just making it tight. As soon as you let the straps go it’s all back where you started. I have the buck cut for over bend too especially in the front my nose cone comes in to meet the frame a little. If I don’t get it today it’s going by my buddy tomorrow on the English wheel. That will bring it in.

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Last edited by Tundra 7 on September 8, 2018, 9:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 9:27 am 
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davew wrote:
I made my hood buck using 6" Dia. pvc tube, and did not put end plates on the buck. This allowed bending the aluminum over center around the bottom of the tube. I drill access holes on the outside of the pvc tube OD, then screwed thru the ID tube wall into the wood buck structure to hold everything in place. As usual it took 3 times longer to make the buck, Vs making the hood!
I would also suggest that you make the hood slightly longer on both the sides and length, then trim to fit the car. I had enough material on the sides that it allowed me to put a small sub flange on the sides to strengthen the hood.
DaveW

I’ve heard the 6” pipe a lot. The nose cone radius is about half that. How do you make it work with such a large diameter?

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davew
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 10:05 am 
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The tube is a 6" Dia. = 3" radii. That matched my CMC nose cone, and the radius on the scuttle is only slightly larger.
If you need a picture, let me know. DaveW
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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 10:33 am 
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You have a bigger radius nose. That’s why. My 3” tube matched the nose pretty nice.

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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 10:41 am 
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It puckers in the middle when the sides are pulled in. It’s not far. The corners match pertty well. One has a little work on it yet. Reading where you have to bend it to make it lay down where you need it is the hard part. It’s not the same spot. This is cut 3” longer on the bottom and about 2-1/2 longer in the length. When you bend the 90* angle along the bottom will the straighten up the sides?


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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 1:37 pm 
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Try this. It takes time but makes a big difference. My fenders are 3003 on the trike. I annealed them a few times using this method but had to step up to a big torch for the compound curves.
Get comfortable because it takes a while.
Is that .050?


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on December 22, 2019, 6:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 2:08 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Try this. It takes time but makes a big difference. My fenders are 3003 on the trike. I annealed them a few times using this method but had to step up to a big torch for the compound curves.
Get comfortable because it takes a while.
Is that .050?

K. I have an oxy set with a big tip.

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waltj
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 7:08 pm 
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Be REAL careful of you use that. It is very easy to go past the sweet spot. Even when you are being very attentive. You probably shouldn't need to ask how I know this. :oops:
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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 8, 2018, 7:48 pm 
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waltj wrote:
Be REAL careful of you use that. It is very easy to go past the sweet spot. Even when you are being very attentive. You probably shouldn't need to ask how I know this. :oops:

I smoked up to scuttle covers.

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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 9, 2018, 4:02 pm 
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Between the wheel and the tube and no heat we got it. For a general fit it looks good. It only takes a slight pressure to hold the sides in which the latches will do, so onto phase 2 tomorrow. Take care of the field trim and start forming the 2 safety ends. Should be nerve racking as usual.


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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 11, 2018, 4:18 pm 
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Well their won’t be a hood for Saturday when I go to the vintage races at Road America. Having body line issues and need to make a new scuttle cover :ack: That will be #4 :ack: then the long top rail body line my be a problem from how I did the side panels. I won’t know for sure until I take it apart. I don’t want to take it apart because I am not sure I can get it all done by Saturday. There are very few driving days left. :(. Just hit 1000miles

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marafonets
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 11, 2018, 8:10 pm 
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What a beautiful carpet :lol:

Image

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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 12, 2018, 5:38 pm 
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Yep, nice rug.

Not sure what your post meant about smoking, but it seems you have plenty of scrap to become comfortable annealing.
Google rosebud tip, since this is what you need to use with an oxy acetylene rig, not a large welding tip. A rose bud is capped on the end with lots of holes.

As soon as the material gets shiny, STOP. WAIT a minute. Passover it to get the black marker off.

You might also try a thinner gauge or source half hard or annealed material so you don't have to to make two bends.

The back cut on the buck needs to start at the beginning of the bend on top. It looks like your back cut starts at the end of where the bend would be on the side. Easy to pull it back if you go too far than it is to bend it far enough for spring back with the buck in the way.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12
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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 12, 2018, 7:03 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Yep, nice rug.

Not sure what your post meant about smoking, but it seems you have plenty of scrap to become comfortable annealing.
Google rosebud tip, since this is what you need to use with an oxy acetylene rig, not a large welding tip. A rose bud is capped on the end with lots of holes.

As soon as the material gets shiny, STOP. WAIT a minute. Passover it to get the black marker off.

You might also try a thinner gauge or source half hard or annealed material so you don't have to to make two bends.

The back cut on the buck needs to start at the beginning of the bend on top. It looks like your back cut starts at the end of where the bend would be on the side. Easy to pull it back if you go too far than it is to bend it far enough for spring back with the buck in the way.

We didn’t have to put any heat on it. When I set it on the car it and push in very easy it follows the shape real nice. I have a rear safety edge bent on it now. I am not doing the front. If I have to I’ll use an edge guard. The radius is not fun to do and I am afraid I’ll ruin the whole hood.

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Tundra 7
 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: October 29, 2018, 5:43 pm 
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Seems foreign to be on here it’s been so long. Last weekend we had a lot of fun in Knoxville. My buddy Kurt (who I’ve know since the 5th grade) is in the MG club down there. He has a couple MG’s. A 1960 A with his own spin on a vintage paint. A 1978 B with a Rover V8. Also a ‘09 911 that never left the garage :shock:. A lot of cool people and no shortage of projects with the bunch either. It’s just a different sickness is all. So we ran around the mountain roads for a couple days. Did have some rain for about an 1hr or so. I was shocked at how little I got wet. My pants never got wet. The guy that put on the ride last Saturday has a couple E types that are concourse cars. Why there uncovered and dusty is beyond me. Also has a cobra for sale if anyone is looking.
This was the first real ride for me and the 7. Where about done for the year. I may get it out tomorrow but I am sure it’s done. Put on 1400miles this summer, and had a blast. The car gets 24mpg which I think is awesome. Handles great, rides nice. Just need to finish the darn bonnet and paint or wrap. Anyone have experience with wrap?


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