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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 25, 2015, 4:37 pm 
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A few fiddly bits in the garage today.

Since I had widened to drivers side of the cockpit I figured I might as well build the seat mounts. I used the front cross tube that Brian had fitted. I cut off the risers and mounting lugs and drilled the tubes for bolts. The rear mounts were some judicious use of angle iron and the mig gun. Some cutting, fitting, welding, and swearing were needed to get it all sorted.

Good news is I have space to fit the sliders. 3 inches seat travel ought to do the trick.

Attachment:
20151025_134433_resized.jpg


Once that was done I pulled the Griffin radiator off the shelf. A test fit followed by some head scratching. Not quite sure what was going on but this radiator isn't gonna work. The outlet is up against the steering rack and the filler is on the way of the nose cone.

:oops: Oops crappy pic. You'll have to trust me

Speaking of nose cone... Test fit just for fun. I see some glass work in my future.
Looks ok from the front.
Attachment:
20151025_144853_resized.jpg


From the corner, well not so good. Sticking about 7 or 8 inches out in space.
Attachment:
20151025_144912_resized.jpg


It needs to be widened about 2 inches and clearanced for the shock bellcranks


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PostPosted: November 2, 2015, 9:16 am 
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Well guys, I didn't get a whole lot done this weekend. Honestly, I just didn't feel like doing anything, but my rule is Do something every week.

Sometime in the very near future I'll be getting my shoulder worked on. I've been going to the ortho for the past couple of months. Got a couple of Cortisone shots, been doing the exercises, but neither one is helping. Torn rotator cuff, possibly a torn labrum, need to get an MRI to see the extent of the damage.
What we know from the X-Rays is my humerus is riding about 1 cm high in the socket.

Enough complaining, on to the work. Building a car is a million little tasks. Some need to be performed sequentially, others whenever the mood strikes.
This weekend was working on little piddly crap that had to be done sometime, but would require very little hammering, grinding, or lifting.

First up hard lines for the brakes and clutch. I had a coil of 3/16 tube and two bags of AN fittings plus a few adapters. Uncoil the tube, straighten a reasonable amount, then eyeball routing. Doesn't seem like a lot, but a couple of hours flew by while I made up 4 lines. I took great care in cutting and deburring because I hate chasing down fluid leaks. AN fittings mean I needed to bust out the 37 degree flaring kit.

Sorry, cell phone pics look like crap, so no pics.

Since I was running lines, figured I might as well hang my calipers. That didn't take long. Now if I could only find those rear rotors that have gone MIA...

Since the calipers were hung, why not work on the e-brake. Another simple task. I took advantage of the existing hardware on the Miata rear subframe for locating the cables. For the front cable clip brackets I welded on a pair of steel washers. Fish the cables and set the location for the handle. I drilled holes in the mounting tubes for the ebrake handle and welded nuts on the inside of the tubes. Bolt it all up tight, clamp in the right location, tack weld the tubes to the chassis.
Attachment:
ebrake.jpg


Last order of business yesterday was to start work building a gas pedal.
I cut a foot plate the same size as the Wilwood pedal set and used 1/2 inch square tubing, a bolt, and a steel bushing. Still needs work, so pics later.

Not much progress, but I'll take anything I can get


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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

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PostPosted: November 2, 2015, 11:10 am 
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If you've got a phone made in the past 5 years or so your cell phone pictures should be very clear. The reason most cell phone pics end up looking blurry is the lens gets dirty.

Just clean the lens before you take shots and they should be very clear and of a high quality.

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PostPosted: November 2, 2015, 11:54 am 
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Samsung Galaxy S4
I looked at my camera. It had gotten switched from auto to ISO 100. AND the lens was dirty. :oops:

Today I'm ordering some braided brake likes for the front calipers. They should show up in a few days and I'll attach the brackets and flex lines so I can put the finishing touches on brake plumbing.

I'm rapidly reaching a point where I need help from someone familiar with the SR20 to help with the plumbing.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: November 2, 2015, 12:09 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
The reason most cell phone pics end up looking blurry is the lens gets dirty.

Just clean the lens before you take shots and they should be very clear and of a high quality.
And coffee.... don't forget to lay off the coffee about an hour before you take pics!!

Helps alllllllllllot!!!

K "caffinated" S

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PostPosted: November 2, 2015, 1:11 pm 
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botbasher wrote:
carguy123 wrote:
The reason most cell phone pics end up looking blurry is the lens gets dirty.

Just clean the lens before you take shots and they should be very clear and of a high quality.
And coffee.... don't forget to lay off the coffee about an hour before you take pics!!

Helps alllllllllllot!!!

K "caffinated" S


I should blame the coffee jitters.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: November 2, 2015, 4:16 pm 
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TooBusy wrote:
Botbasher wrote:
And coffee.... don't forget to lay off the coffee about an hour before you take pics!!

Helps alllllllllllot!!!

K "caffinated" S


I should blame the coffee jitters.
I do... and I don't even drink the stuff!!!

K " :thmbsup: " S

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PostPosted: November 2, 2015, 5:39 pm 
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tell me about the F500...maybe some stuff there I could use on my sports racer build? PM me
Paul

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PostPosted: November 5, 2015, 12:27 pm 
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Lots of little bits on order, some on back order, some waiting on ebay sellers to get off their asses and ship my damn parts, some will show up tomorrow.

Anyway,

I'm thinking about turbo plumbing on the cold side
GOT TURBO NOOB ????S

Should I plan on recirculating valve or BOV? Wat are the merits of each? How would I plumb differently?

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: November 5, 2015, 12:40 pm 
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TooBusy wrote:
Should I plan on recirculating valve or BOV? Wat are the merits of each? How would I plumb differently?
Should really start that question at the other end of the harness?

Some ECUs freak out (with regards to Fuel/Air) if you don't plumb them a certain way, so you should look at the ECU setup before determining plumbing. Some MAFs, like in the VWs, need a recirc, otherwise the air volume is out of whack and they toss codes all day. Others like in my MegaSquirt where you use MAP sensors don't care and you're free to plumb it anyway you like.

There are +/-'s to each, but it really starts at the ECU as to what you can get away with.

K "Stoich" S

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PostPosted: November 5, 2015, 2:43 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
I feel for you on the shoulder issue. I had mine torn in a motorcycle crash back in 2006, and despite consulting with several doctors (the common response was "Don't worry about it - it'll fix itself, no problem!"), my left arm is now 1 1/2" longer than my right, and the head of the humerus is nowhere near in the socket. It causes me issues all the time - besides having problems finding shirts that fit!

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PostPosted: November 5, 2015, 3:40 pm 
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botbasher wrote:
TooBusy wrote:
Should I plan on recirculating valve or BOV? Wat are the merits of each? How would I plumb differently?
Should really start that question at the other end of the harness?

Some ECUs freak out (with regards to Fuel/Air) if you don't plumb them a certain way, so you should look at the ECU setup before determining plumbing. Some MAFs, like in the VWs, need a recirc, otherwise the air volume is out of whack and they toss codes all day. Others like in my MegaSquirt where you use MAP sensors don't care and you're free to plumb it anyway you like.

There are +/-'s to each, but it really starts at the ECU as to what you can get away with.

K "Stoich" S


ECU is bone stock 240SX along with wiring harness. I guess I'll be replicating the 240SX with cooler looking plumbing.

Wouldn't need for recirc be based on where I put the MAF? For example, MAF in front of snail, recirc required. But MAF downstream of a BOV "should" be ok?

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: November 5, 2015, 5:41 pm 
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TooBusy wrote:
Wouldn't need for recirc be based on where I put the MAF? For example, MAF in front of snail, recirc required. But MAF downstream of a BOV "should" be ok?

Maybe one of the 'Yota gurus can speak to this in detail for the SR20DET, but MAF systems are generally a GIGO system... what goes in to the intake MUST be equaled in fuel (to maintain stoich), so if you use a open BOV in a MAF, you're putting excess fuel into the manifold due to losing air out the BOV. This typically makes for an exciting show at the back end of the vehicle!! :twisted: In a stock ECU car, this can equal DTC codes, noisy decels, ruined O2 sensors and poor performance when coming on boost after a recently closed T-Body (i.e. accel after downshifting into a turn). And all this is referenced at atmospheric pressure (14.7psia. 0 psig), so it all has to be in front of the snail and once air passes the MAF it must be consumed.

To example how sensitive they can be... mine recently died in my Jetta. It wouldn't shift right. Stumbled off the line. Barely started in the AM. And passing someone was a experience in back pain as it lit the turbo off at about 4500rpm with no warning breaking both tires free just to merge!! All from a bad MAF. They are fairly integral to "normal operation" in some late model cars!

'Yota may use a MAF with a back-up MAP or some other system. If no one here offers up, you can check out some of the tuner forums and look at someone that's got a system similar to what you want and then duplicate that. It might be bolt-on simple or a re-mapped ECU complicated. I'm VW oriented so I can only reference that side of the equation, but I know that VW MAF system detests an open system. Damn Germans!! :BH:

On the other hand, you could do away with it all and slap a MegaSquirt system on it, steal someones .msq file and be done with it! That's my plan since the 1.8t ECUs require so much of the original car it's not even funny!!

I hope I'm not leading you astray with VW MAF vs 'Yota MAF, but they should all work pretty close to the same.

K "squirted" S

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PostPosted: November 8, 2015, 6:45 pm 
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I've joined a couple of the Nissan forums. Some folks are pretty knowledgeable, some folks couldn't find their ass with both hands, and a few just seem to be internet buttholes.
I've ordered the Chilton manual for the 93-98 240SX. That should help quite a bit.

A few bits came in Friday night. Yesterday was a trip up the hill to watch my Tigers play FSU. I got tickets from a friend who got called out of town at the last minute. GREAT SEATS 20 yard line on the home side 16 rows up. :D I had better seats than my daughter for the first time ever.
Attachment:
20151107_153834_resized.jpg

Attachment:
20151107_163326_resized.jpg


Today was garage day and time to take advantage of the goodies that showed up. Weather sucked today. The cold front is coming through so the high today was about 9am. No shorts and T shirt today, time to bust out the union shirt.

First up, rear brakes.
Rotors went on along with new pads.
Attachment:
20151108_172930_resized.jpg

Then finished off the rear brake lines. Put a compression coupler in the tunnel to join the 2 mega bent pieces


Moved up front and decided on the location for the brake bulkhead tabs, welded them on and attached the braided lines. Fashioned the line to connect the two sides and finished off the brake plumbing.
Attachment:
20151108_134627_resized.jpg


Last item of the day was putting the oil and water lines on the turbo.
Attachment:
20151108_172953_resized.jpg

Attachment:
20151108_173006_resized.jpg


Showered up and chilling on the sofa.


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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: November 8, 2015, 10:58 pm 
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I have wanted to see what those Ebay headers were like. I would seriously reeled the header. It looks like they fused the metal instead of adding filler material and leaving a nice fillet. The weld has way too much undercut and should have a nice 3/32" fillet. that weld "looks" concave. You may end up with cracking as it heat cycles. Its only an hour job to re tig that or mig it out.

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