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Kentucky duratec Locost build
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17841
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Author:  Leggman [ December 10, 2015, 4:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Kentucky duratec Locost build

I am starting this build in this forum because I have been posting in other forums and I need to do this right so here goes.
I found this site several weeks ago and after finding the free plans (tightwad) I decided this would be a very fun project to do.
After much thought as to whether to use a v8 or a four I settled on the much lighter four cylinder. I contacted a friend who has a towing service/ repair shop and he has a 05 ford focus that was hit in the rear. I purchased it for 700 and I would really like to make a front engine locost. I seriously considered making it a mid engine car but the front engines just seem like the right way to go.
I have at my disposal a second gen rx7 transmission and rear end which would be perfect for the locost. Or I could mate a t5 to the focus engine. The donor car has a 2.0 duratec engine and five speed gearbox.
I will be posting pictures of what I have so far as soon as I get some free time.
Dave

Author:  ngpmike [ December 10, 2015, 5:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

OK, Dave. We are waiting with bated breath... or is that baited breath? OH, well. get to it. :cheers:

Author:  stuie84 [ December 10, 2015, 8:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

I vote mid engine since you have the focus 5 spd.

Author:  Off Road SHO [ December 10, 2015, 11:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

I've looked and can't find any info on the bell housing pattern for the 2.0 Duratec. I wonder what "family" it is in?

Tom

Author:  Leggman [ December 10, 2015, 11:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

I have heard that a newer ranger and Miata will bolt right up. I would like to use a fc rx7 5 speed trans because I have one of those. Also have a t5 from a Camaro.

Author:  Leggman [ December 11, 2015, 1:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

I just checked online and the mazda rx7 rear end I have uses a 4 x 114.3 bolt pattern so there will be some rethinking there. I could still use the center section but it is a 4:10 ratio so maybe not. That is the problem I have with the rx7 I put the v8 into. It cooks off the line but no top end. I am beginning to get the appeal for these cars, Just when you think you have something figured out something new pops up and it starts all over again.
I am not completely sold on the front engine design yet. I really have enough parts laying around to do one of each but first things first. Tomorrow I start getting ready in the shop. It is such a mess and must be cleaned first before I can build the build table. I am thinking a 2 x 6 frame with plywood on top. 10 feet long by four feet wide. Once the frame is built I can add on to the table to support the wheels or should I just make it wider to start with.
So many questions... So little time.
here are some pics of my donor car

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Author:  ngpmike [ December 11, 2015, 7:52 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

There are plenty of good threads on the forum regarding 'Build Tables'. I would start here; http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=6634 !

Author:  BBlue [ December 11, 2015, 9:21 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

A. Moore used a Miata 5 speed with his Duratec and as I recall it was pretty much a collect the parts and bolt them together project. There is really little reason to go with the T5. The bell housing is expensive, so the overall cost is not all the attractive and I've read that most guys are not happy with them.

He also discovered that in order to use the stock ECU he need the Focus air intake system in its entirety. Without it, he had a strange resonance that would actually cause the engine to stall. I experienced the same thing with a Ranger 2.3 D'tec and Megasquirt. Had to install an air box in the air supply. In short, save as much "junk" off the donor as possible. You never know what you may need.

Bill

Author:  1055 [ December 11, 2015, 11:07 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

The t5 seems to be a dream killer in 4 cylinders. I honestly think it just has to do with the spacing of the gears. The larger v6's and v8's make easy work of the longer gears, but the 4 cyls really need to be strung out to make them feel the same.

I +1 the Miata transmission. They're fairly strong and pretty darn lightweight. I think a complete trans with fluid is somewhere in the area of 80-90 lbs. If you like the idea of a t5, I would rather have an nv1500 than a t5. simply because they have a taller, narrower profile, weigh about the same, and have an internal hydraulic slave/TOB combo as opposed to the external slave that is most common on the t5.

that being said, the NV1500 does not have a removable bellhousing, and I do not know if they made one that would fit the duratec bolt pattern.

Author:  Driven5 [ December 11, 2015, 2:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

Off Road SHO wrote:
I've looked and can't find any info on the bell housing pattern for the 2.0 Duratec. I wonder what "family" it is in?
The 2.0/2.3/2.5 Duratec (including Ti-VCT) and Ecoboost 2.0/2.3 are all in the Mazda L-Engine family.



Leggman wrote:
I have heard that a newer ranger and Miata will bolt right up. I would like to use a fc rx7 5 speed trans because I have one of those. Also have a t5 from a Camaro.
If you have no other use for them, one or both could also always be sold off to help pay for direct fitment parts.

Author:  zetec7 [ December 11, 2015, 3:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

I'm using a V-6 (Mustang II) sourced T-5 World Class behind a 2.0 Zetec. As far as the ratios go, it seems like it will be okay (not on the road yet). My thinking is that, in a car 1/3 of the weight of the original, I can afford wider ratios for street/highway use. Plus, with the outrageous power to weight ratio I'll have (and no interest in intentional or unintentional burnouts), it should be eminently driveable.

The downside was mating the T-5 to the Zetec. There are a couple of ways, but the simplest (and, probably, the most expensive) was the way I went - a bellhousing from Quad4Rods. They make one for the Duratec, too...for the princely sum of $600. On the plus side, they're gorgeous - CNC-machined aluminum, and they mate up to your engine & trans with an audible "click" - flawless fit & finish. 'Course, no one but you will ever see it once it's installed...

Author:  Driven5 [ December 11, 2015, 3:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

Actually, if you want to go front engine, this is a great deal: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=17022

Author:  turbo_bird [ December 11, 2015, 4:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Kentucky duratec Locost build

The later v-6 Mustangs, from about 94, came with a decently close ratio T-5. They were 3.35:1, 1.93:1, 1.29:1, 1:1, and 0.73:1. That should be not too terrible for a locost. There's also the aftermarket ones that have a 2.95:1 1st and 0.8:1 5th, but they're pretty expensive. If your Focus trans axle has a removable bellhousing, it wouldn't be hard to build an adapter plate for the T-5 you have.
Kristian

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