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PostPosted: December 29, 2018, 10:49 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
After looking at the normal options, the other offerings from ATL and then pretty much all the fuel cells that summit sells, I really couldn't find a fuel cell that fit behind the diff (above the diff is for "storage") and seemed to not cost an arm and a leg. Over the summer I had acquired a finger brake and an aluminum spool setup for my trusty Miller 130xp so I decided that I was going to have a go at making my own tank. Everything is .090 5052 sheet. I am reusing a subaru impreza fuel pump hanger and a modified impreza filler neck. The subaru pump strainer doesn't fit, I've run through the catalogs and have 5 or 6 candidates that I am looking at. Venting will be out a 1/4 NPT roll over vent and I'll probably end up sticking a charcoal canister on that as well. Another design change I made through researching tank stuffs was I am going to ditch the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that I bought and replace it with a mk6 VW 2.5L fuel filter with built in regulator. Ford racing specs the ecu at 55 psi (3.8 bar) min and the VW unit is 58 psi (4 bar). I feel like the built in fpr is going to be simpler to run and has a quick connect that the engine fuel line uses anyway.

All the parts ready to go
Attachment:
tank 1.jpg

Attachment:
tank 2.jpg

Attachment:
tank 3.jpg

Attachment:
tank 4.jpg

Attachment:
tank 5.jpg

Attachment:
tank 6.jpg

Attachment:
tank 7.jpg


Baffle and tank "surge plate"




fit in boot



mounting brackets. still need to fab the tank straps


Pressure testing the tank. I have small children so there is plenty of bubble solution and smallish tubs to dip the tank in. Was having issues getting the pump flanges to seal with a used gasket and I didn't want to waste a new gasket. Found 10 pin holes in the tank. Interesting note is that I had a couple holes from welds that were done from the inside of the tank. Overall I am pretty happy with the results. The spool gun took a bit of practice to get the technique right and I managed not to blow through all the welds. Tank should have 8 usable gallons which should be plenty. Shut off is controlled by the pump nozzle sticking into the tank when filling.

Attachment:
tank pin hole test.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 30, 2018, 9:52 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
That tank is an outstanding accomplishment, IMHO. You took on a number of new things and ended up with a very professional result. I'm impressed. :hail:

Happy New Year!

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: December 30, 2018, 10:41 am 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Thanks. I took a number of pointers from some posts by MV8 that were really helpful.

edit: Tank is 11.1 lbs w/o pump hanger


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PostPosted: January 5, 2019, 10:10 am 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Tank stuff finished up although I managed to bugger up one of my rivet gun nose pieces due to user error when setting the rivnuts.



Tank installed with the straps. I have some adhesive backed rubber for the straps that will be added once stuff is painted. You can see the bolt on roll hoop mounts for the rear stays. The tank install is a bit tight so the hoop will need to come out if the tank ever needs to come out.

Attachment:
tank straps.jpg


rivnuts for the straps
Attachment:
tank bolts.jpg

Attachment:
tank installed.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: January 6, 2019, 1:21 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
Posts: 1615
Location: central Arkansas
Mongo like tank strap!

Beats the heck out of drilling a hole and using a washer...


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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 7:42 am 
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TRX wrote:
Mongo like tank strap!
Bubba like tank strap, too!
(Really, ya can't get two high-class recommendations like that just any old day, ya know?)
:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: January 21, 2019, 5:50 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Spent the weekend mostly doing some around the house items that I've been putting off for a bit too long but have managed to get a couple other items out of the way.

Radiator top mount: This is the second one I made, 22 ga was too thin. Despite using the wrong die on the bead roller it came out well. Bead roll then bend also works better.
Attachment:
radiator top mount.jpg


Throttle linkage: Cut the stock focus unit short and epoxied a metal sleeve into the cross support. Also made a right / left hand threaded adjuster rod. It was made a bit too long on purpose, will most likely make a shorter one now that the throttle is mounted. Will also need to reinforce the foot well or make a sturdier stop for the pedal as the current foot piece is flexing a little bit. If you look closely you can also see the bolt on cross piece for under the engine and the tunnel mods to clear the slave cylinder.

Attachment:
throttle linkage.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: January 31, 2019, 11:03 am 
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Joined: March 15, 2018, 6:03 am
Posts: 160
Gonzo also like... as they said...!
I like things which are simple, effective AND attractive... and there are many examples in this build...


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PostPosted: February 5, 2019, 11:16 pm 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Thanks for the compliment, I'll try to keep up the good work.

Next... exhaust. A Flowmaster Super HP-2 18" unit and a flowmaster cat. Mounts are 50A vibration dampers from mcmaster and a summit T flange.

Attachment:
exhaust system.jpg

Attachment:
exhaust front mount.jpg

Attachment:
exhaust rear mount.jpg


with the engine and trans back in it appears that the frame clearance mods did their job. Although now that I can mount the clutch slave and move the clutch fork I have at least one more problem to solve if I want the hydraulics to work:

Attachment:
clutch slave clearance needed.jpg


Fenders are 32x10 3/4 Single Axle .080 Marine Grade Aluminum Trailer Fender if you are wondering.


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 16, 2020, 2:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2019, 1:18 pm 
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Posts: 260
Location: Delaware
Pict the frame pretty much "done" minus a couple tabs for the brake lines. Been working on confirming the strut lengths I am going to need: 14-9.5" with a .5" spacer to make them 14-10" front and back. Next up is the roll hoop and dry fitting the floor and bulkheads prior to painting. I am going with .090" 5052 for the floor, trans tunnel and rear bulkhead and .060" for the front firewall. I measured my helmet height at 16.5" higher than the frame and am planning on a 19.5" tall hoop. Decided I am going to modify the clutch slave to have a banjo fitting out the side vs further cutting into the frame. They are only $10 so doesn't cost too much to screw it up.

Attachment:
frame ready for paint.jpg


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Last edited by hfmaxi on August 17, 2020, 6:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 16, 2019, 11:29 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
It's all looking very nice. I guess there's only that last 20% to do. :wink:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: March 16, 2019, 8:52 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
It's all looking very nice. I guess there's only that last 120% to do.
Fixed that typo for ya... :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: March 16, 2019, 9:56 pm 
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Location: Seattle area
And JD is being conservative!

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PostPosted: March 18, 2019, 7:46 am 
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Location: Delaware
Thanks all. That's definitely how the last month has felt. Would like to have some of the panels dry fit with alignment holes done this week plus the roll hoop bent. Trying to get the frame painted just in case the east coast decides to rain all summer again. Plus autox is starting up and I sold my race car last year so I'm really starting to get the itch for that.


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PostPosted: March 18, 2019, 10:14 am 
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Looking again at your exhaust hangers, the forward one is mounted 90 degrees from its ideal orientation It should be in compression. Those rubber mounts don't do well mounted in shear. You can already see it sagging. I'd suggest you bring along some muffler wire for the eventual on the side of the road fix.

I used a different system with only 1 hanger. It worked well once I had the final design worked out. I was surprised to find out just how much force is put on the muffler hangers. Maybe 6-800 miles was the limit on my 1st design before I needed the wire, Then redesigned and ran another 5,000+ without problems.

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