LocostUSA.com

Doors look really great. Would like to see it open.

You are going to do a top aren't you? I'm contemplating my top and am stuck on how to attach the front of it to the windshield.

Cheers!

_________________
Larry in Seattle

since my mirrors attach to the windshield stanchions opening the doors is awkward at best. my top attaches to the windshield with snaps that I installed before the glass went in.

davew: the door is hanging on nylon straps, the rear strap is attached to the frame and keeps it from sagging.

Opening being a bit of a job is understandable. And alas! my glass is already in and I don't relish doing that again. Was hoping you had come up with a brilliant clipon of some type. My only other look at doors were ones that came off rather than opened. The car was a tad smaller than mine. I don't think he carried them along. I'll check and see.

Thanks for the information.

Cheers!

_________________
Larry in Seattle

Larry, not to steel the thread, typically the top of a Seven is snapped along the windshield as hfmaxi did. When I was thinking of a soft top for my build, I considered a top like my old '63 Spitfire. 4 short steel strips were sewn into the front edge of the fabric. A slot was formed along the top of the windshield. To erect the top, the front edge was inserted into the slot and then the top wrapped back, over the slot. I've never seen that done on a Seven. Here is a video starting around 3:45 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ52BO-5-y4

Alternatively you could attach (glue) a wooden header to the top that is shaped to fit the windshield. Then you could just use a pair of pis on the windshield and use toggle latches to secure it.

My apologies to hfmaxi for stealing his thread.
Now back to your original programming.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Yup, those doors look great.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Been a few months with not too much accomplished on anything. We added more offspring (planned, not covid baby) to the house and between that and work my time has been spoken for.

Pict is of the doors version 1.5. I raised the front top of the frame by 20mm and the rear by 55mm to get the frame out of my sight line. I also redid the clear vinyl with Kal Glass 40 gauge vinyl which is DOT compliant but more importantly must clearer than generic clear from the fabric store. You'll notice the fender has been wrapped in 3m G77 Gloss sky blue, while I like the color it's a bit much for the entire car. The color search continues.

Been staring away at where I want to put my sway bar mounts. I've sourced some 3/4" bushings and mounts and plan on making a couple bars up in 3/4 conduit before spending the money on 4130. Current plan is inboard the frame above the steering rack and attach with link to lower shock bolt.





Below is a pict of the v1 door frame just to show how it's put together.

Here's a sneak preview of how the winter has been going. Color is G47 in 3m 2080 series. I would call my install successfully amateur. Like mnot the rear fender lips were a bit of a challenge but they are 10ft good. I tried using a single piece for the nose whish didn't work at all. The nose ended up being 4 separate parts and came out ok. If any of it is an issue in the long run I've got enough material to redo both. Stripes are from https://www.lettersunlimited.com/racing-stripes-and-short-runs and 3m material that works well when laid up wet. Super happy with the color combination, had to use my wife's phone to get a good picture of the color as it was washing out on mine.

Still working on a front sway bar install. It's been mocked up but I just haven't gotten around to doing the welding. More on that soon.

Wow, that colour combo sure 'pops', nice job

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

How do you know I'm from Canada? Our computers spell some words differently , like color

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

So, you're Canadian eh?

_________________
Larry in Seattle

I looked and looked but couldn't find any wrinkles in your wrap. And you said the nose cone was 4 pieces but i couldn't find any seams. I did my nose cone in pieces also. I can see the seams in my photos but I know where they are. Also did the rear fenders in 2 pieces.

As another first timer doing a wrap i think you did an amazing job. Ten/ten is good. Most are twenty/twenty.

Photos were in Locost Wrapped up in Completed Builds Showcase but hey have fanished. i can send more if you would like.

Cheers!

_________________
Larry in Seattle

Thanks all.

I'd be interested in how you did your fenders. Pretty sure if that I could have done a bit better just using a slightly bigger piece but I was trying to waste as little as possible. Watching all the guys on youtube they seem to go through material like it's free. Post it on this thread if you want.

The seams are there its just that the gloss covers it up. I didn't use knifeless tape so I hid the seams by going over them with a long, thin (maybe 3mm) piece. Hard to see even in person.

The guys doing the demos on YouTube are sponsored usually or someone else picking up the tab. So the cost is of little concern to them.

I was trying to be on the economic side but I did have to order a little more than my original estimate. Lost a chunk on the first attempt to do a rear fender.

Second attempt now using 2 pieces. And the cutting tape. It’s really pretty cool. Hard to get started first but once you get the hang of it it works great. Started by laying the tape on the apex of the curve on the outside edge of the fender. Then laid the face piece on pulling it past the tape enough to adhere it beyond the tape’s edge. Squeegeed that smoothie then trimmed that back towards the tape as much as I dared. Then laid the top piece on, pulled over the tape. Smooth down and
trimmed off excess. Then I pulled the tape and it cut both layers of film leaving them butted against each other perfectly. Squeegeed the joint smooth.

Pretty much the same technique or the nose panels.

Not as nice as using one piece would be but I just don’t have the skill to do that and am not a good candidate to learn. Don’t think I’ll try it again unless this one fails.

Hope this is of some help.


Fender

Nose cone

Six feet away

Front

_________________
Larry in Seattle

Looks good. Thanks for the pointers. Minus the knifeless tape we did our nose cones pretty much the same.


I've moved this car into the completed projects forum: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=20900