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Very beautiful collector. And how long is the channel turned out? (from the flange to the point of convergence of the channels)

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Do not be ashamed not to know, it's shameful not to know and not ask

"And even if they say " Yes, let them talk!
But no one - no one dies in vain,
This is better than vodka and from colds.
Others will come, replacing comfort
At the risk and inordinate work,-
Will you not passed route." V.S. Vysotsky

about 130mm from the convergence to the outlet and the merge bullet tip is about 60mm from the outlet. The merge collector is from Cone Engineering http://www.coneeng.com/collectors.html

I apologize for incorrectly formulated the question. I meant the length of the cylinder head flange to the place where all 4 pipes converge into one.

_________________
Do not be ashamed not to know, it's shameful not to know and not ask

"And even if they say " Yes, let them talk!
But no one - no one dies in vain,
This is better than vodka and from colds.
Others will come, replacing comfort
At the risk and inordinate work,-
Will you not passed route." V.S. Vysotsky

primary pipes are 24" long and 1.75" in diameter.

wow, Did you use formulas to calculate the length?

_________________
Do not be ashamed not to know, it's shameful not to know and not ask

"And even if they say " Yes, let them talk!
But no one - no one dies in vain,
This is better than vodka and from colds.
Others will come, replacing comfort
At the risk and inordinate work,-
Will you not passed route." V.S. Vysotsky

There are a couple online calculators that I found that are based purely on displacement, primary size and max rpm. I don't have the cam profile so it's more of a back of the envelope guess comparing it to what is on the market for mk3 Focus headers. 1.625" primaries may have been a better choice to not push the power band too high but we'll see where these end up and see if any drastic changes need to be made.

here is a good link: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-header-design.185/

Driveshaft! Thanks to the nice folks at Moxley's in Street, MD for putting this together for me.

Slip Joint: PTI 2603-22
7260 U Joint
Weld yoke: PTI 2651-60
Weld yoke: Neapco N2-28-277
1310 U Joint
Flange Yoke: PTI 3102-192

For my continued procrastination on pulling the engine and trans to complete the chassis fitment mods I've been making progress on some other items. First I've been cleaning up the engine wiring harness and double checking that the ford racing loom I bought will work the first time. A couple observations: the loom that shipped with the NA ecu was still wired for the ecoboost but they share most pins with the ecoboost having a couple extra circuits that I'll probably remove after things are up and running, ford wiring manuals are cheap ($12 on ebay), the Lear connector catalog is easy to find but cross referenced poorly so I'll probably be leaving any intact harness the length it came in. All the work for me was pulling the automatic plug out of the harness and freeing the O2 sensor wiring so it can be relocated in the harness.



Also got around to making the lower radiator mount which is inspired by Randy's build. Not a lot of room for the nose cone, looks like I am going to have to raise it about 1/2" in to clear the radiator cap.








Here are the grommets I used for the Honda radiator.

Nice - I had to tilt mine back to get the clearance on the top. The intercooler is tilted in the same fashion to butt up against the rad. I think eventually I'll get a radiator made with the Civic dimensions but no cap, then just fill via the overflow tank.

That exhaust manifold is awesome looking!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Thanks. For the clearance it's not a bad thing that I need to space the nose up. The engine I am using is tall enough that I need to do a scoop and I'll get a bit more room around the engine with the bonnet.

Got the ebrake sorted. Calipers are mk4 Golf as are the cables. I thought I had a subaru ebrake in my parts piles but I didn't. The handle is from a 04-05 SRT Neon. Only reason I ended with this one is that it looked like a flat mount and was cheap on ebay. Interesting note is that the neon handle has an auto adjuster. I found the adjuster good and bad. The bad part is, with the auto adjust spring, you need to balance the spring force between the handle and the calipers which might limit cable length and overall mounting options. The VW calipers have a plus in that they can use helper springs to return the piston completely. So I have a couple of those on order.

Handle is mounted on the side through some spacers into some weld nuts on the frame.
The tubes are a similar method to how VW routes the cables in the golf.
I made a small aluminum spacer to help center the rotors and tapped the subie hub for a set screw

Nice fab.

Did you consider swapping sides to put the rear calipers at the front of the upright? This may have allowed you to use the cables without adding the tubing.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I never really thought about it. The cable housing stops at the ends of the tubes and since VW runs through tube I just kind of went for it. I didn't want to have to shorten the cables and the run back and over the diff worked to get the length where I needed it and out of the way. The tubes can be removed if I need to.

Nice clean routing IMO.

MV8, my forward-mounting caliper was b-e-a-t-c-h to fit and get the ebrake functional. My donor's OEM setup interfered with the frame in that orientation. Part of the interference problems was driven by me not wanting to have the rear fenders wider than they needed to be. Therefore I made the axle length/upright location as compact as I was able to. I should have looked at mounting toward the rear like hfmaxi's. Instead, I took the hard route. I had rebuilt the ebrake br@ckets and mechanism inside and outside of the caliper and swapping internal pieces of the caliper left and right to get things to fit and work properly. My point is that there are lots of ways to skin the cat. hfmaxi's is not too bad a solution at all IMO.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

HFmaxi
Yupper you get bonus points on the diff mounting design and fab work

I had the same problem as Chuck did, with a sharp turn in the E-brake cable routing. I was trying to using 30yr old cables and calipers. No amount of lube was going to work.
DaveW