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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 4, 2018, 8:58 pm 
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IF it's a holiday I should be able to work on MY project. :cheers:
Made some precision 5" spacers to get the chassis off the build table.
Got more clamps to stop the chassis moving around too easily.
Raised the engine another 1/2" and checked the bonnet fit, it still clears.
With that done I was finally able to fab and tack in the engine mounts!
Getting the engine mounts close to finished is something I consider a milestone.
No more looking for reference marks and juggling the engine/chassis back into their proper relationship.
Pics once the camera battery charges.
Now I should be able to begin on the transmission mount.

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PostPosted: July 8, 2018, 1:59 am 
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Promised engine mount pic.
Both sides are the same.
Just tacked in place for now.
But I have had the mounts off to verify easy future serviceability.
Trans mount next.

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PostPosted: July 21, 2018, 12:05 am 
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Christmas in July today! :D
Got my pallet full of Alfa ex-racer parts today.
Have to look into getting the Flaming River R&P rebuilt, it got dinged in the crash but looks like an excellent fit.
The 15x7" Alfa/Ford 4x108 PCD wheels probably won't work on this build, maybe on the Trick-6?
Very nice set of vented rotors and Wilwood calipers, but will not clear my 14" wheels.
Debating using the fabricated Ford type uprights and arms, have to look at that some more.
I think I can use the calipers with the original Alfa rotors if I remove the spacers between the halves.
Got a full set of PRO coil overs with springs but one of the fronts is broken, rear set should work fine.
Need to learn how to use the hollow anti-sway bar parts, they look like Sprint Car parts with links and splined ends.
Rebuilt trans with lightened second gear will be sweet, the lightened flywheel will be fun too. :)
Lots to sort out, some may be resold.

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PostPosted: July 21, 2018, 8:53 am 
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Fun!


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PostPosted: February 25, 2019, 1:18 am 
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Been frustrated not being able to work on the Dio.
Tonight I bought a pair of Cibie E code halogen headlamps that should fit.
A little progress is still better than none. :)

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PostPosted: March 14, 2020, 2:49 am 
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:ack: WHERE DOES THE TIME GO! :BH:
Turning 65 in May and the Dio-Alfa is still sitting on my build table. :oops:
It is NOT forgotten or abandoned, just a victim of more urgent needs.
I have made some small progress of late, I finally got the Alfa Spindle dimensions drawn up in CAD.
I will post to the Spindle discussion once I figure out how to convert the file to something the site will accept.
It would indeed be simpler to just use the early Pinto spindles I have.
But I have a fixation to use a set of rare original Alfa wheels I own. :roll:
They will not work with the Pinto hubs.

Come August I will begin getting my SS Pittance, just enough to cover the rent, so whatever else I make may go to the toys. :D

To make the Alfa spindles work I have to swap them from each side to the other in order to get front steer.
This also moves the calipers to the rear.
Some time ago a point was made that this might be an issue for caster?
So far as I can tell the pivot point is centered so caster should be under control of the A arms.
Unless I am missing something?
A arm camber is 9º as near as I can measure it, a little less than Pinto/M II.

Upper A arm design is simple, similar to Jack's design but using a particular odd upper ball-joint to fit the Alfa spindles.
Lower arms are still TBD, but the overall dimensions of the Alfa spindle are fairly close to Pinto/MII so the MII design suggested by AM should be a good starting point for further refinement.

Now that I have Bend-Tech Pro chassis design is much easier.
Made a rolling stand for the JD bender, it also incorporates a set of leveling feet.
Next trick is to complete the air-over conversion.

Very determined to get this on wheels this year!

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PostPosted: March 14, 2020, 11:42 am 
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Reversing the spindles for front steer means the steering arms need to be moved outboard to maintain ackerman or the rack needs to be placed well behind the steering arm pickup points. There may also be interference between the tie rod and the wheel when turning sharply. I actually bent the tie rods to clear the wheels on one project. Good luck with the awesome project!! :cheers:

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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6


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PostPosted: March 14, 2020, 12:35 pm 
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Maybe I should mention that the steering arms are bolt-on?
I beleive that I may just reverse them.
If necessary I will just make new ones.

Now on the hunt for a local source of 1" OD x .109" wall x .782" ID 1020 DOM A513 Round Steel Tube.
That becomes the main arm.
Still deciding which direction to take the supporting arm, forward or back.
Alfa went forward.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2020, 2:45 am 
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Okay, cannot reverse the steering arms as they will then hit the calipers.
At 6" long I probably want them shorter for quicker steering.

Determined which tie-rod ends would work for upper and lower ball joints, es2065l
Also realized that the upright seats are a 9º angle from flat.
So looks like I need a 9º angle at the ends of my A arms to retain full range of movement.
Simple for the lower as I expect it to sit level at ride height.
Upper may be a bit trickier as I do not yet know the ideal arm angle.

Or maybe I will just adapt to rod ends?
Decisions!

Found these, two sizes available.

Image

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PostPosted: March 15, 2020, 8:09 am 
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Richard, how about pictures of what you have? New bolt-on arms can be made that directly accept a spherical joint in double shear, clear the calipers, and eliminate bumpsteer without moving the rack if it is already fixed.

A cheap used canon digital camera off ebay is great. None of the issues people have with using their phones. Take the pics, plug it into a usb port on the pc, Press the button on the back to cut the camera on so the pc will know it is there, go to "my computer" to find the camera, open the file, click the pic, hold down the mouse button and drag it off the window onto the background (desktop).

If you tell me your operating system (xp, windows 10, etc) I can probably find a youtube video to show you exactly how to transfer pics to the pc so you can post them.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: March 15, 2020, 2:47 pm 
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It's the ends of the A arms I am trying to attach to the upright.
The standard Alfa ball joints are a bit odd and hard to work with.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2020, 3:37 pm 
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Build a 9 deg slope into the ubj flange of the uca.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: March 16, 2020, 12:18 am 
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Yes, 9º already factored in no matter what I do for outer joints.
Having an issue getting the pics imported from my camera but I do have these.
Alfa uprights are unusual in that the lower BJ attaches from the top side of the casting.

For future builds I will definately make life easier by using original or Mustang II parts.

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IMG_2440.jpg


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PostPosted: March 16, 2020, 7:57 am 
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Use 11 or 12 gauge box section long and wide enough to contact the center of the tubes. It will depend on how wide you make the pivots and how long the lca will be. I'm guessing 1.5 x 3 or 4 inches or you can make them from flat 1/8 strip. Box section needs to be thick enough to clear a socket over the hardware then choose pivot tube od based on the tube od required for the box section thickness, so if you need 1.5 to clear the socket, the tubing will end up as 1.5 also.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: March 16, 2020, 1:05 pm 
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Spoke with Kar Tek this morning.
Their adapters are made from Cro-Mo steel for heavy duty use on off-road buggies and trucks.
So I think I will buy a set and use rod ends in place of the odd ball-joint's.
That should be simpler and allow more adjustment.

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