LocostUSA.com

Real Purdy!

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Nice job!

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

While I'm waiting on my bulk order of vinyl to show up(3 week delivery) I worked on the dash. Final piece is some .050 aluminum I had left over from the hood with carbon wrap over it. I'd like to do it in real carbon but hard to justify the cost when I had this material just laying around. The missing gauge is oil pressure which should be here this week. Everything else is displayed in the gauge cluster. The "stuff" at the bottom of the dash is a USB port for ECU tuning, 12v power outlet and a 5v USB port.

I also got the car running again after it died at the dyno. There was a burnt trace in the ECU. It may have been from a few years back when I fried the car when I first got it running when the alternator control failed and it put out over 100v. I'd had a few times where the ECU failed to boot previously so that might have been the cause then too. Trace was fixed with soldering in some 24 gauge wire.

Coming along nicely.
I poke around occasionally for a 4port Renesis. Shop here in Houston lists a couple 4 & 6 ports on occasion. Need to try to call in & see if they'll knock the price down if I opt for the engine only (the 4 ports are usually autos).
Need to look at joining a couple rotary forums & try to sell/part out my S4 & put that toward the engine.
Thought about keeping the S4 & building it up with an aggressive street port, but time/money I'd rather put into getting the car moving forward instead.

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1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

Got a lot of wrapping done this weekend. I give my work so far an 8 out of 10. The tight corners on the rear of the car and the cowl piece were the hardest to do. Probably an hour for each corner. Looking back I should have put a few more seams in the corners and life would have been way easier. So far this about 12 hours of work to get here. It's faster than paint but it's still not easy or quick. Need to finish some light body work on the nose and rear fenders and those will be ready. I'm dreading the nose. I have no idea how to pull that off yet.

I'm going to be adding a trim piece around the exhaust outlet so the vinyl will hopefully be far enough away not to melt. The muffler will be getting a heatshield and I'll be wrapping the exhaust to try and protect it.

I got some new thinner silicone gloves off amazon and wow do they make this a lot easier. If you are planning on wrapping anything these are the way to go. You're fingers don't stick at all to the vinyl.

Its looking very good! I have been considering wrapping the nose, fenders, and shuttle. Leave the alum panels bare. Look forward to seeing your nose wrapped.

Thom

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Thom

Indeed! Very good looking wrap job. I didn't wrap my front fenders or side panels. Had to put a seam in the nose cone. Think my patience ran out. What brand of vinyl did you use? Sure doesn't look like it was your first try.

Cheers!

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Larry in Seattle

Wow, that vinyl wrap looks great! I too am interested to hear info on the product and manufacturer.
Cheers,
Eric

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MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/

It's 3M 1080 series Liquid Copper. They have a newer series 2080 which is supposed to be an improvement over this. Problem is this color isn't available in the new series yet. I also had a hard time even getting this. I need another ten feet or so and most everyone is sold out.

Got the trim around the exhaust outlet and heatshield on the muffler.

The exhaust looks fantastic.

Is the shielding on the inside of the muffler the "direct application" type. At least I think that's what they call it. Translated, it means you can apply it directly to the heat source itself, not some distance from it.

Here is one example product. I just took it from a Google search. Temperatures are in Celsus, not Fahrenheit. There is a US company in the Carolinas that make something similar. It's used on NASCAR race cars.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Well glad you posted about the direct contact thing. That stuff was some DEI heatshield I had kicking around for more than a few years. Figured since I had it why not use it and didn't look into it at all. Now I'll be taking it off. 100% not rated for direct contact, even says on the website don't apply directly to the exhaust. I'll be ordering that teknofibra stuff stat. That is the exact size I need too.

Very slick exhaust, for sure.

You might think about shielding the muffler from direct contact by passengers entering and exiting and curious pedestrians. I had a perforated aluminum shield on the muffler. I didn't shield the pipes but was always worried about the pedestrian part after I parked.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I've had the idea of a perforated shield in the back of my head for awhile. besides being a guard they look super cool!

A piece of thin SS waterjetted with cooling holes and a "7" in the center would look cool. Surely someone on here knows someone that could do it. I wouldn't mind having one made for my car. Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.