LocostUSA.com

Looking good.

You are going to have to drill that pretty valve cover for a vent line. They don't come with one. I drilled and tapped for a brass hose barb on my MGA. Crank case ventilation is necessary to minimize acid buildup. Also pressure relief. That vent hose goes to filtered air, originally connected to the SU carb filter canister. It provides fresh, filtered air to the engine. the exit is on the tappet cover. I see that Dave moved the vent on his engine from the OEM top rear, to the rear face of the valve cover. You could do the same and just add one of the Cal Custom, Mr Gasket or whatever brand they go by today, little air filters directly attached.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

An alternative to modifying the valve cover is to fit a breather type side cover or modify the solid one. Needs to kick up so oil will drain back or you could add a fitting in the side of the pan to drain back without using a valve bottomed can that requires periodic draining.

The stock breather side cover has a built in baffle but you could just fit a 3/8 inch elbow and use oil rated hose to connect. That is where the early engines had the road draft pipe.

Take a look at Perry's most recent build. Lots of breather cans on Ebay for $20 or less. Easy enough to make your own to look period correct. Might even consider road draft.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I was thinking the same thing regarding the tops of the dash pots being polished. I keep trying to keep in mind what JPS Europa (Paul) told me, "don't make it too pretty- you'll not want to drive it".

I am going to have to re-ore the motor. Cylinder #1 has a small divot where a ring rusted into the cylinder. Tried to hone it out but it is just too deep. Really a shame since the wear on the cylinders was minimum.

Thom

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Thom

On the 74 motor, it has the side baffled cover (which is also the access point to the lifters) which was vented up to the PVC valve which of course then attaches to the intake manifold.


I thought I would drill the back of valve cover and add a small elbow with a filter to vent the motor. If there is clearance at the top of the motor, I would add a vented cap instead of drilling the cover. Will wait and see when I build the bonnet.

Thom

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Thom

Today I had some progress. I did a final location of the engine/trans and fabricated the front motor mount points and welded in the trans mount I had modified from the original MGB mount.

I will state now, I NEED TO PRACTICE MY WELDING! Even though I was just flex core wire welding and applying just tack welds, it sucked! It will hold until I get my Argon Gas tank for TIG welding. But I am not happy with the results. I did play around with the settings until I got something that would at least hold.










At least I have the motor and trans in place

Thom

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Thom

Got the mounts done and I had a surprise from USPS, my wiring harness and Aluminium valve cover that I ordered on ebay. Did not expect them until next week!

The wiring harness is for a Triumph TR4-A, '65-'67. It was a simple loom and it is compatible with the MG and Healey electrical componets and lighting I plan to use. I plan on using the Sprite, MGA, Triumph rear taillights and turn signals like many of the original Lotus 7 MK1's.
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I also "staged" the carbs and valve cover to see how much they will protrude above the bonnet- quite a bit! But the oil pan is above the the bottom of the frame. I had to raise the motor to clear the bell housing on the cross tube.


I set a piece of metal and a level across from the nose to the cowl to get a better perspective of the protrusion. The SU H6 carbs are quite a bit larger than the HIS4 carbs. But there should be quite a bit of performance difference.

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Thom

I started mapping out the new wiring harness that I got a deal on on ebay. As I stated, it was actually a new replacement harness from Moss Motors that a gentleman ordered for his Triumph TR4-A. But it was for a left hand drive car and hs was a right hand drive he was restoring. I got it for less that 50% of new. It was the vinyl wrapped, which I am fine with for this application. It will be easy to order switches and electrical parts that will mix and match with the MGB motor. And the lengths are very close to the size I need for the Locost.

It took about 2 hours to look up (by color code) the wires and label them and their destination. Now to see what I will need to modify. But It is all nice and clean plus not many extra circuits that I need to remove/ignore. The biggest difference is the TR4 distributor is on the driver's side and on the passenger's side on the MGB. Not too difficult a change. The fuse block is the same one used on the early MGB.
And the wires for the tail lights will plug right into the MGA units.

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Thom

I need some input from everyone. I have had the weekend to review my placement of the power train. I am not happy with my results. Though I have located the engine as far back as I can, I think it is setting up to high. Its current location will require a bulge to clear the valve cover and the carbs will need to protrude quite far thru the bonnet. The oil pan is 1 inch above the bottom of the frame- which is good!

As I review the clearances, I realized I can move the motor and trans forward about 2"-3" and I can then lower the whole assembly at least 2". The valve cover would then clear the bonnet. The carbs would be located at a lower, wider portion of the bonnet. The protrusion out the side of the bonnet would be less. I might be able to add something more like a small scoop on the side of the bonnet. I found a photo of an early Seven with an example.


Moving the mounts I tacked in is not a big deal. Please let me hear your inputs.

Thom

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Thom

The question is how high is the frame from the ground? A lot of our cars the oil pan/bellhousing is 3-4" from the GROUND. Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

There should not be a cross tube at the bottom of the bell. It should have been cut out eventually but it is handy to have up to a point when building the frame. Don't be concerned about moving the engine forward. Here is a pic of an original with the engine buried in the nose.

Practice welding and running beads on scrap that you don't have to grind back out and repair. Just running multiple beads side by side without adding another piece of metal is good practice and can help you set up the machine for the material gauge. Make sure you can do it on scrap before welding on the chassis. Make sure your welder has enough amps for the material thickness.

It looks like you are using iron channel for the engine mounting. You may want to stick with something more malleable like steel round or square tube. A load spreading base plate and some triangulation would help too.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Personally, I'd be inclined to move the engine/trans forward and get the benefit of lowering the engine/trans down 2", which would have a significant effect on the center of gravity location. I'm not clear on what that would do to your oil pan clearance, but moving it closer to the front wheels would give a degree of additional protection relative to being 2-3 inches to the rear.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I agree. Moving the sump closer forward to the centerline of the front wheels will give you a lot of protection. I wish you had a front sump oil pan. Russ

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You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

MV8- Interesting that you mention removing the cross tube under the bell housing. I kept looking at it and was thinking "Do I really need it there?" Please take a look at the photo below and confirm that this tube can be removed. If removed, I could lower the motor in its current location without substantial changes.I would only remove it (of course) between the two foot wells.

Also, I played around with some more practice welds, it appears that I did not clean off the material well enough before I started to tack weld. Its been over 40 years since I last welded in A&P school! I've killed too many brain cells since then!

I have about 5 to 6 inches of clearance for my frame now and the bottom of the pan is 1 inch above the top of the lowest tube as it sits. If I remove the tube under the bell housing, I can have the pan protrude below the bottom of the frame about 1 inch. I think that is more than enough clearance. I do prefer the motor to be back as far as it s for a couple of reasons. It gives a better balance, front to rear, and it locates the shift lever in a good location.



I did use square tubing for the support tubes. I can see how it would look like angle iron in the photo. The photo above only has one of the tubes in place on the passenger side at that moment. Here is the final design as shown on the driver's side.


I was thinking about adding another tube running back and down for added fore/aft stability.

Thanks
Thom

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Thom

That is the tube to cut out. It looks like the builder expected to have a very tall bonnet with the high offset in the upper tube.

The brace will work with what you have. I'd probably fit the rubber mounts flat on the frame with a base plate, then fab arms to bolt on to the engine but what you have will work.

The shifter on the originals is a simple easy to make remote unit that attaches to the top of the tunnel. You can also try to make trans mounted extension: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6355&p=64925&hilit=shifter+remote#p64925

Photo also shows orig parking brake system. Not much room between the seats for a hand brake.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

MV8- Great to have you confirm that I can remove the lower tube! Now everything will align well! You are correct, the original builder intended to install a Small Block Ford.

I will cut loose the motor and trans and lower them (actually will set the motor on the table and raise the frame-LOL). With the mod I did earlier for the shifter handle and its current location, the shifter will be in perfect location.

Also interesting to note in the photo you attached is the use of an MGTD ignition/light and horn/dimmer switches. I had looked at the same possible configuration. Easy access of the fuse block but not very protected from the weather.

Thom

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Thom