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I appreciate the clarification, all the info on panhards would gloss over that bit. Now to go do some damage in the garage..

Still chipping away at it, scrapped the rear frame in favor of an identical design with a different angle leaving room for the Panhard to travel aswell as clearing the diff housing better. After that the panhard didn't attach to the chassis as originally intended which took time figuring something better

Now whats left to do is remake the pickup point and then it should be ready to make the shock mounts and have it roll under its own weight.

Spaced the panhard out about as far as I'm comfortable, on the backside will be a horizontal plate bracing it to the axle.(tacked in place for now)

Panhard is "finished" design wise, as with everything is mostly tacked in place but this is likely the end product.

The Pedalbox has been a dreaded detail for quite some time, everything to do with pedal ratio, driving position, and clearances had me worried. The M/C mount is about finished and placement is feeling pretty good, the footwell is cramped but workable.

After thinking about this too much, its been decided to use the sheetmetal firewall as the rear frame and bracing on the Pedals. The side panel was cooked up today and it gives an idea of the shape.

The pedals sit 7.5" off the floor, with the Brake having a pedal ratio of 5.5 and the clutch 4.6, As you may the bolt and shim situation holding the pedals is temporary, at the very least it will get a single through bolt and spacers.

Progress has slowed to 1 day a week as time gets dumped into Work, before starting the thread there had been about 1 months worth of work spread out of 6 months while refreshing a 280z. Ill share these because everyone loves a little Z.

Regarding your pedal box, may I suggest instead of bolts to pivot the pedals on replace them with a single common shaft for both pedals to pivot on.
Also use a longer tube to pivot the pedal on rather than large washers on the side of the arm to keep the pedals straight.

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Honey anyone?

He has that covered. As he posted "As you may the bolt and shim situation holding the pedals is temporary, at the very least it will get a single through bolt and spacers."

Sony1492, this would be a good time to figure out how you will incorporate the brake switch design. BTW, nice metal repair on the Z car.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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Thanks and Good point, the Brake pedal is original sc400 so its still got its rubber stop. Maybe I was smart and horded the switch around somewhere, either way I should figure that before properly welding in the pedal assembly.

Not sure about where to put the Gas pedal for good heel toe once the brake is depressed, figured I'd wait until the brake system was done to test its mush but that seems like bad planning. Is there any rule of thumb on that?

You need to consider pedal location if you do not have adjustable seats. The easiest method is to weld the pedal on to a threaded rod. Then weld a cut down pipe hanger hex with internal threads to the lever arm(s). I welded on several pipe hanger hexes stacked on top of each other to allow the pedal location to be moved up and down in a couple positions plus the ability to screw the pedal in and out to get the right fore/aft location. Another option is to weld a flat plate on the back side of the pedal at a right angle to the pedal surface. The plate should not be centered in the middle of the pedal but offset. This will give you cross car adjustment on the pedal location by flipping the pedal to the short or long offset side. You can also add several holes for up/down adjustment plus you also have a pivot point that the pedal can rotate on at the single attachment bolt. This gives you some ability to adjust the angle of the pedal to match your foot. I highly recommend this type of pedal design for the throttle pedal and if made robust, could also be used for the brake and clutch pedals. I like to roll my foot, Vs heel-toe, between the brake and gas pedal, and this arrangement allows for fine adjustment between the two pedals. davew

The plan has been to use the Lexus pedal. But we all know how long "plans" last when you start fitting things together, threaded rod sounds better then using 800 washers.

Finished making these upper panels, cant weld them in until for a while but here they are mocked up.


While this does leave a ton of open space above the trans its necessary for engine removal. Some sort of removable crossbar will go in between and use the beadroller to strengthen the panels. With that said,, Im not sure where I should roll in the troughs for best effect.(think the X on a Jerry can)


Not sure if I've mentioned but the engine is wired up and ready to go for the megasquirt save for the cam and crank sensors which were always tough to get working on this engine. "Soon" the wiring will be placed and the engine will be ready for a fuel tank.

Hoping to source a whole VW Beetle roof soon to determine how the roll cage will need to look and final A pillar placement.

Finished the rear suspension (as in tacked in place), still need to get some of those deeply expensive 5/8 bolts but it feels good to see it on the ground and mobile. Ride height in the rear end is off, so you can see the panhard not lining up but I'm not going to mess around with that until its much closer to operational weight with the spare tire, roof, and fuel tank.

Great progress! Is the back end frame finished? Asking because I'm just trying to see where I would place a gas tank.......

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Thanks! The back end is pending where the body ends up, the frame will extent back to the trunk. The fuel tank will mount flat to the rear frame slope that already exists, it should be "simple" sense ive already got to make a custom tank.

Roof isn't secured for now, just resting in place.

Wow, that works! There was a photoshopped version posted a couple of times but it was always a bit suspicious. But it actually fits well in real life, and should look good too.

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

Think the photoshop illustrates the beetle being smaller then it truly is, but it definitely played a part in this madness. This chassis is 46" wide with a much taller dash then most yet the beetle roof still looks a bit big, on a smaller locost it might look odd.