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Got some assistance & drug the 13B outside. With a 3' cheater, I had both feet off the ground, suspended by the breaker bar.
A loud pop later & the monster flywheel nut broke loose.

It's now mounted up on the stand, disassembly to follow.

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1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

I'm going to be in the same boat very soon. I picked up an aluminum flywheel for my motor recently. In the past I had a friend with a 3/4 impact gun that made short work of it. To put it back on I put all my weight, ~150lbs, 2' down the breaker bar. That should be the proper 300 ft lbs of torque. I've never had one come loose so I must be doing something right.

Someplace I have a photo my buddy took of when I did that.
Felt all the world like I was Wiley E. Coyote jumping and bouncing on something, then "CLOP-PING!", weightless.


That's what I did when I installed the automatic counterweight for the Racing Beat flywheel.
Then I daubed on a few dots of nail polish at the nut to counterweight interface as a quick "did it move?" sanity check.

The only good thing that came out of automatic transmission RX's was that counterweight.

True indeed, and they've been using those for their flywheels since I was racing RX-3's in 1980.

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Bill J
442 Locost - in progress
Mid-engine Beetle - In Progess
'12 GTI - Daily
'01 Chevy Cargo Van - Workhorse parts hauler

BTW, if anyone needs a 13B engine stand adapter........

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I'll have to look into the AT counterweight & aftermarket flywheel idea.
Now, I have to figure out pulling the flywheel. May have to make/rent a tool, as I'm not getting any progress with trying to move it otherwise.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

I've always smacked the face out towards the edges with a small sledge hammer and it pops off. And by smack I mean somewhere between a tap and full on hammer blow but closer to the tapping end of the spectrum. I know it seems brutish but it works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ALWmSoq930

There should be two threaded holes where you can bolt a flat puller.

That was from when I did the bolt removal.

If you go the sledge route, leave the nut on, but backed off only a small 3mm or so.
The taper on these releases quickly, and you don't want to damage the e-shaft threads if it wedges into them.

When you get the counterweight, be SURE that you get the one for the series engine you have, there are a few different ones with different balance for different rotors and front dampeners.

Thanks guys, I'll give the tap method a shot this afternoon.

I'm mostly sure that mine's a N/A S4 6 port.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

Assuming this motor has the correct flywheel you can figure out what you've got from this- https://mazdatrix.com/identifying-and-w ... flywheels/

Finally some progress.

The hammer tap trick worked great. Used a block of wood as a buffer to avoid damaging the flywheel.



A couple hours' work (and a decent cut in my palm where the wrench slipped while breaking loose the tension bolts) later & she's an exploded Dorito spinner.
Cursory first look, nothing looks awful inside. Need to get it all cleaned up & do some more thorough examination. The rotors are a bit sludgy, to the point that the apex seals didn't fall out when removing them from the housing.
Fingers crossed that she's rebuildable without needing to replace much, other than seals/springs.

Pretty amazing that an entire short block is only about 20 major components.

Need to get some good degreaser & a suitable parts washer container & start cleaning things up. Hence my other thread looking for some good products.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

Glad it worked out!

Are those pictures mirrored?

Yeah, the camera on my phone is busted, so these are in 'selfie mode' ie: front camera.
Didn't have my Nikon handy, which is what the majority of the others were taken with.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

You can typically turn off the mirror image save in the phone camera settings.

People tend to get confused in selfie mode if the screen does not act like a mirror (it makes it easier to aim if it acts like a mirror), but then for some reason iPhones (I think) started saving the image that way, which looks stupid to everyone looking at the picture later. Android used to default to normal picture (mirror on the screen while taking, saved as normal for viewing), but that seems to have changed as well as I keep seeing more and more selfies with reversed text in them.

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Planning a Duratec powered, Miata suspended 442

I did my flywheel weekend before last. My 1/2" dewalt brushless impact got it off, eventually. Took about 30 seconds with a brand new battery to get it to budge. I figured if the dewalt got it off at 350 ft lbs + it would have no problem tightening it to that torque. I also used some red loctite.