LocostUSA.com

It’s been a few nights of fiddling with the car. I finally have it running well enough to take apart.

I bought a new ignitor based on the engine code from the ECU. While waiting for the ECU to arrive I drained down the gas tank and added fresh fuel, cleaned the main chassis ground under the brake booster. I also removed an aftermarket immobilizer and shock sensor. I think the it was bypassed some how but I couldn’t figure out how. I’ve taken a few out of cars over the years normally once the column covers are removed finding the main splice is not to hard. I was able to patch back together the main power wire with a single water tight butt connector. It had no affect on my issue but at least it was out.

Went out to test the car one last time before swapping in the new ignitor. Cranked it over and it just kept running. It was about 15F at the time so I’m not sure if the fuel injection was dumping extra fuel for a high idle and that got it going. Once it was running I found out the PCV valve was cracked causing a vacuum leak. New PCV valve was $2.50 from the parts store. Seem to start and run fine now.

I ripped the car around the neighborhood a few times. All the gears seem fine, has an over heating issue, looks like an air bubble in the engine or an issue with the radiator cap. I don’t think I’ll put anymore time into fixing the car.

I parked it outside and plan to strip the rear axle sub frame and get it mocked into the chassis. That should be easier to figure out than the front control arms. I’m planning a relatively aggressive build time, I don’t think making a full custom rear suspension is worth it at this point.

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

"has an over heating issue, looks like an air bubble in the engine or an issue with the radiator cap"

These very well could be symptoms of a head gasket leaking compression.

Are you planning on re-sealing or rebuilding the engine?

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Long day today, was supposed to be an easy day, drop the rear axle sub assembly out of the Miata, easy peasy. The morning started off raining which sucks because its also 40F out right know. The 6 main bolts that hold the rear axle sub assembly in place all came out, which is good given its a New England car. I did have to resort to a breaker bar and a lot of muscle. The craftsman 1/2 electric impact I have is about 14 years old and seems to be losing its power. Traded off to the trusty Ingersoll 231G air impact only to find it has a bad valve and needs to be rebuilt. There is also some trick to getting the rear diff out of the main C channel stiffener that runs up to the transmission. I couldn't figure it out so I just cut it. After that its 2 coil over bolts, one break line, two E-break lines, and a chassis ground wire.

Job took about 4-5 hours including messing with the air impact. Overall I'm happy but worn out.

I have the rear sub frame mocked into place. I'm thinking i will build a 1.5"x3"x. 120 wall tube(or maybe I'll order some 1"x2") frame of the back of the car to pick up the factor locations to make the rear end as simple as possible.

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

I bought coral CADD for myself for Christmas this year. I've been limping along on free and student version since I gradated college. I figured since i have it already I should give back to the community. I was able to download the McSorley 442 from sevensque and started mocking in some of the expected modification in order to use the factor 90's Miata rear sub frame fully assembled. Long term plan would be put together a set of rear bulkhead drawings which could be substituted on the McSorley 442 to make a simple chassis for people who want a simple fast building car and don't want to stress over making a fully custom rear assembly.

Stock 442 frame
Ride height was set at 6"
Factor Miata wheels and tire sizes

more tubes will need to be added but the factory Miata rear sub assembly is pretty stout. I should be able to triangulate it in nicely. This is just the first pass.

Blue- square plate representing Maita rear frame assembly
Red- new tube set at mounting height of Miata rear axle sub assembly.
Yellow - new horizontal 1"X1.5" "frame rails which pick up the 6 factory mounting hole on the sub frame
Orange- I expect these stock frame tubes will interfere with the Maita sub assembly and will need relocated to some extent.

So far I'm really happy, other than the fact that the assemble sits very high in the car even with ride height at 6". But the point is to be able to drop in a factory sub assembly and not have to mess around too much.
It also looks like it might length the wheel base. The higher the frame has to sit in the car the longer it makes the car.

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

Decided to just go put the Miata rear end sub assembly in the car. I'll worry about the drawings some other time. Overall the modifications to the 442 frame haven't been to much. I can see why there is not a set of plans for this its pretty basic once you get the parts on hand and lined up. More triangulation to come right now the rear axle sub assembly is just hanging from the rear bulkhead.

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

I've been lurking for a little while. A Locost is on the list for our next project. We are local to you: just up in East Hampton. But really, I'm just checking in to encourage you to bring that out to the autocross. One (of the two) autox clubs in CT runs 10 events at the "turtle" lot at Mohegan Sun. You could nearly hit the lot with a stone from your driveway I bet. So much fun, good group of folks. Lots of miata tuning experience there.

http://www.cartct.com

Maybe we will see you out there. If you can spare the time away from the project stop up one day and go for some rides. Right now the sons and I run a shitbox Golf, a 1967 Volvo 122 and a 1958 Ford pickup - we are pretty easy to find.

Good luck! Bob

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IG: @finnwerks

That's awesome, Foxwoods isn't to far either....realistically Connecticut is a small state so nothing too far.

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

More work on the Miata!!! It's now running good enough to take apart. Made some progress on rear bulk head as well.

https://youtu.be/Ke4r4qUmsag?si=MwI6XduuEYRhdAuZ

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

Pictures and videos got a bit out of sync.

I've finished mounting the Miata rear sub frame. Looks like I"ll need some small diameter coil overs to clear the CV axles and frame tubes. They are almost twice the cost of the EL-cheap-O hot rod ones i had picked out. But they have on O.D. of between 3" to 3.25" almost half the normal size springs.

https://youtu.be/FMQQOd0FZKU

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

Great job, I'm using the NC MX-5 whole rear end.
I made mine removable(bolt on).

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

I think I can still remove and replace the individual rear end components, but yeah the sub frame is not coming out. Hopefully, it doesn't bite me in the butt later.

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT

I don't think the diff assy will come out without one of the bottom rails being removable. The '94 and newer miatas came with a bolt-on brace that tied everything together similar to the chassis rails you've added. Your subframe (91-93?) may not have the integral nut plates for it.

The height of the subframe and pinion relative to the transmission output shaft is important for setting the ujoint angles later; more so with a shorter driveshaft. Get a digital protractor for $12 off ebay for much more accuracy than a weighted pendulum protractor or a bubble.

It looks like a one inch, 4x100 to 4x100 "adapter" will provide enough clearance to the body in bump.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Years of scrounging, fixing junk, and constantly upgrading. The lathe is by far my best score to date. $500 from a technical high school in central PA. One of the students crashed the tool post into the chuck and striped the main gears in head stock. I had to braze the gears, make a new shift fork, install a VFD to run it off 240V. Came with a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, face plate, Dorian quick change tool post, steady rest, follow rest. I've had to buy tool holders and a MT drill chuck but overall it was a good gamble. I take it easy on the head stock gears, but it can still take a pretty big cut compared to my old bench top lathe.

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viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25146#p276391
442 Frame, 14 ga.
Donor 1991 Miata BRG 117K 1.6L 5speed (car was totaled when a tree fell on it)



Norwich, CT