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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 26, 2008, 12:11 am 
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Removed the engine from the Celica today, the driveshaft was a big PITA. I had to get a wrench on the nuts and have my brother pull on the wrench with a chain while I beat on the other side with a hammer. And since there were 2 sections of drive shaft we had double the fun. Anyways, here are some pics for you guys…

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My bro... lol
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And me...
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PostPosted: November 14, 2008, 11:05 pm 
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Tryin to a least move a peice of metal every day and its startin to look like a frame. lol

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PostPosted: November 23, 2008, 1:45 am 
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Been slowly taking apart the Celica, got the gauges out and thought what the hell, I'll try and fix it. Thats down from 285XXX

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You guys probly already do this, but when I take something complicated apart i get some cardboard and draw a diagram and poke holes in it then push the screws or bolts in.
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PostPosted: November 26, 2008, 12:06 am 
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Been having a hard time finding time to work on this thing. Between school, cleaning my room and a few other things. I have no idea how I will fit my new job into all this crap. And I'd like to be doing guitar lessons on top of it. lol. Anyways....

Went to the local Pick-n-Pull today and got a limited slip rear out of a Supra, ended up being about $130 for the diff + crossmember + sway bar...

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PostPosted: November 26, 2008, 5:39 pm 
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
You finally found one! Do you know what ratio it is?

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"the all-consuming time-sucking car, which I really enjoy working on" -KB


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PostPosted: November 26, 2008, 7:34 pm 
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I dont, no. But I do still have the diff code. f283 I think???

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 Post subject: diff code
PostPosted: November 26, 2008, 10:15 pm 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
If your diff code is F283

Then you have a 7.5" ring and pinion with a 4.30 ratio and it is a two pinion LSD.

I think you lucked out Dave W


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PostPosted: November 26, 2008, 11:38 pm 
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Thanks Dave. Can you explain to me why that is better than others I could have gotten. I dont know what other size ring and pinions there were or what difference that makes, also whats the difference between a 2 pinion or 1 pinion LSD??? (besides the number of pinions)

And a newb question: Whats the difference between posi and limited slip?

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PostPosted: November 27, 2008, 12:17 am 
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posi and limited slip are just different names for the same thing, thats all.

The 4.30:1 is the rarest rear end ratio as I understand. The higher the number, the faster the acceleration (but lower top speed). a 4.30:1 should let you spin the grippiest of tires :D

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Locost finished - book frame, IRS, '84 celica GTS donor, '99 tacoma 2rz motor with a turbo, megasquirt DIYPNP. Getting rebuilt with new IRS, F20C
"the all-consuming time-sucking car, which I really enjoy working on" -KB


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PostPosted: November 27, 2008, 1:06 am 
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Well that sounds good to me! I dont care about a huge top speed as wind gets stupid with these open cars.

Thanks for the info about posi, when I was leaving Pick-n-Pull one of the kids that worked there asked why I didnt get one with posi instead of limited slip and it made me second guess what I thought.

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PostPosted: December 23, 2008, 9:45 pm 
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Havent been doin much lately movin some stuff around in the garage and trying to catch back up on selling parts off the car.

Separated engine and trans and modified my engine stand to accomadate it...

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Lookin good...
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PostPosted: January 10, 2009, 7:32 pm 
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Got the complete wiring harness out and I always hear you guys say it is huge. Well, guess what... ITS HUGE. I cant imagine doing this in a luxury car. Here is a picture of it and my new toolbox...
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Car is pretty much gutted I just need the suspention and steering out now...
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And my welds are getting better.

Heres one of the first ones...
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And heres one I did today... (right side is better)
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PostPosted: January 14, 2009, 10:02 pm 
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It may not be much progress to you guys but I get more and more exited every time the frame looks more complete. lol

Lesson learned today: When welding make sure to open the argon valve.

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PostPosted: January 15, 2009, 1:16 am 
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toylocost wrote:
Lesson learned today: When welding make sure to open the argon valve.
You can normally tell by the sound if you forgot to open the valve or that your gas tank if empty, the welding process would sound like hissing rather than the normal sound that's a bit like deep frying...

If you welded something without gas, grind it down and re-do it.

Moti

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PostPosted: January 15, 2009, 2:06 am 
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Make sure you are pulling the weld all the way to the edge of the joint. This way the corners arnt left unwelded in the end. If you haven't, pick up a few welding books. I'm self taught and I have put my welding through some hell... Offroad jeep suspensions to 10 second drag car suspensions.

Also one of the best things to do is go by metal or fabricating shops and pic the scraps out of their dumpster... Take them home and just weld and weld and weld. This way you can flip them over to see how much penetration your getting. Welds can look good, but they can have horrible penetration.
And finally yea no argon is a bad thing. No shielding gas equals a lot of sparks and horrible bubblie welds.

Becides the welding the project looks great. Keep up the good work.

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