kill no cone wrote:
So would it make sense to put a spacer between the ball joint and the lower control arm? Or, do I need to go the other direction and mount the ball joint on the underside of the control arm?
What do you think?
No...the location of the actual arms is irrelevant. It's the line between the pivots (LBJ and chassis pick-ups) that matters. You've got to move the LBJ or the pickups.
If your tire diameter and uprights are fixed, your only choice is to to move the chassis pickup points. You can do that by changing your ride height, or by cutting the points off and moving them on the chassis.
BTW, I'm not saying that you DO need to move anything...just commenting on HOW you would do it. Have you plugged your numbers into Wishbone or a fancier program? Or drawn a paper-doll/string computer model? If not, check out the stickies in the "Suspension" forum and study up for a while. (Unless Jack handed you a solution already figured out, in which case you're probably doing better than most of us and you can advance directly to "GO!")
As for your other questions, I'll take a stab...
I've got 4.5" of clearance under my +442 frame. The stock Miata oil pan hangs 1" below the frame, and I'll have a skid plate of sorts so it's not the first thing to hit.
QA1 has some good single-adjustable coilovers for about $170 each...probably about as cheap as you'll find new. Koni has something similar. Add $100 or so for double-adjustable. Try your favorite race shop, such as www.SummitRacing.com
I thought I'd save money by building a pushrod system with some really nice, free Hyabusa shocks. If I paid myself Chinese sweatshop wages, I'd have saved money just buying suitable coilovers! I've got around $150 in bearings alone.
You can read more than you want by clicking on my WWW link at the bottom of this post.