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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 22, 2017, 8:11 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
@TRX
Nut on a stick? Man, for a minute there, I thought you were talkin' about me. :mrgreen:

No, that is an excellent idea. Thank you very much for it.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 22, 2017, 9:08 pm 
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Guess what? I just rolled over onto page 100. Watch out, JD, I gainin' on ya!

I did get the passenger side "gusset" fitted into place and decided to try and implement my coaming idea on the driver's side. I used some cut strips of Bristol Board to determine how long a strip of metal I'd need to do it. It's about as stiff as 22 gauge steel, I'd say. Anyway, I let the end of it overlap about 3/4" onto the start, thinking I'd mark and trim the free end as I fed it around and tacked it in place. Tacking be be a little challenging if it causes the steel strip to twist, but I'll just have to try it and see what happens.
Attachment:
File comment: Using strips of Bristol Board to make a coaming template.
DSC03561.JPG
DSC03561.JPG [ 139.18 KiB | Viewed 565 times ]


It turned out I needed about 27" of material. By eyeballing, if figured a strip just over 1" wide would do it. Cutting a strip like that (27"x1") by hand would be very tough to do. I do have a 3-in-1 machine that I bought on a super sale at Harbor Freight some time back. I'd made a nice stand for it, but hadn't used it yet as I wasn't really doing any sheet metal work. Well, necessity being the Mother and all, it looked like a good day to start.
Attachment:
File comment: The strip I needed was within the capabilities of the machine.
DSC03563.JPG
DSC03563.JPG [ 142.3 KiB | Viewed 565 times ]


Most of the day was spent cleaning all the red, "chicken fat" grease off the sheer components of it, and aligning the blade, adjusting the work holder setup, and so on. The user manual is very brief, but better than most Harbor Freight manuals, so I go the job done. With some test cuts on cardboard and then metal, I could see that the workholding component was not working like it should. The cut was not square.
Attachment:
File comment: First shear is crosswise on this 36" long sheet of 20 gauge. My 22 gauge stock was too big to fit in the 3-in-1 machine.
DSC03565.JPG
DSC03565.JPG [ 148.54 KiB | Viewed 565 times ]


OK, I know, Harbor Frieght units are really a kit and you need to fiddle with them to get them to work. The first cut was not good enough because the workholding setup was not adequate. I put some washers above the springs on the unit, and that helped, but I was worried that at 27" of material, I needed even more help. I ended up using some strips of wood and some quick adjusting clamps to hold the end of the sheets down. It was the best thing I could come up with at the time.
Attachment:
File comment: My temporary work holding setup.
DSC03566.JPG
DSC03566.JPG [ 138.67 KiB | Viewed 565 times ]


There is a back gauge with the unit. I went to mount it on the 3-in1 only to find the screw-in knobs used to secure it onto two metal rods you screw into the back side of the unit did not actually fit. Argggh! There's that "kit" factor again. So I just had to use a cut piece of cardboard and my eyes to line it up as square as I could, and add in my temporary work holding setup. The cut ended up being off slightly, about 1/64" over the length of 27", and that's acceptable for this application.
Attachment:
File comment: Mu cut strip at 27"x1".
DSC03567.JPG
DSC03567.JPG [ 141.51 KiB | Viewed 565 times ]


I figured that was about enough excitement for the day, and I didn't want to set up a temporary fixture and then break out the welder today. So, I'll get back on it tomorrow afternoon when I have more time.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 22, 2017, 10:59 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Man I wish I had your energy.
From leaving sea level and going back to 2200' FASL, I am LAZY!
I truly believe man was meant to live at sea level.
You truly give me inspiration and hope on completing my current build. :cheers:

Word of the day "truly"

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Perry

2 down, 2 to go, no 3 to go

'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030


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PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 9:19 am 
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Guess what? I just rolled over onto page 100. Watch out, JD, I gainin' on ya!
Congrats on reaching that particular "Century Mark"! Hope you had as much fun getting there as I did. I do have to point out, as a matter of pride, that I don't think your log has any sausage recipes or nearly naked Chinese chicks... But it does contain lots of truly fine work. 8)

Pssst! Hey Perry! I said "truly"... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 12:28 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
horchoha wrote:
Man I wish I had your energy.
From leaving sea level and going back to 2200' FASL, I am LAZY!
I truly believe man was meant to live at sea level.
You truly give me inspiration and hope on completing my current build. :cheers:

Word of the day "truly"


You're not lazy, Perry. You're retired!

I'm glad I'm a positive influence on you in some way. Based on experience with your past builds, some weekend you'll get motivated, and in a couple of days you'll whiz past where I am with my build. I hope to be on the road with mine by the end of 2017. You'll probably have your 5th build done by then.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 12:33 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
Guess what? I just rolled over onto page 100. Watch out, JD, I gainin' on ya!
Congrats on reaching that particular "Century Mark"! Hope you had as much fun getting there as I did. I do have to point out, as a matter of pride, that I don't think your log has any sausage recipes or nearly naked Chinese chicks... But it does contain lots of truly fine work. 8)

Pssst! Hey Perry! I said "truly"... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK


Yup, I've had fun. And, I've learned a whole sh*tload too. This year is going to be the year, I think. I don't have a lot of other distractions anymore other than the ones my dear wife thinks up for me. :roll: I'm making progress every week, and sometimes every day. So "God willing, and the creek don't rise", I'll have a running Locost in the near future. Man, that will be nice!

Thank you for the nice compliment about my work too.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 24, 2017, 11:29 pm 
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I was able to return to the garage today and try out my coaming idea. It seemed like a reasonable thing to do, but most of these fabricating task are new to me, so I just have to give it a try. I decided to elevate my gusset plate 3/4" off the surface of my welding table using wooden blocks, and place it upside down. I used the metal surface of the table as a means of keeping my margins for the engine bay side even. I only wanted enough margin on the footwell side to permit a decent weld bead. Keeping it small will also keep me from skinning my hands as I work on the steering gear, pedal box or accelerator pedal mechanism.

You'll see the 20 gauge strip overlaps itself, and the reason for that will become clear later.
Attachment:
File comment: The gusset plate mounted on blocks, with my method of pulling the metal strip into the corners.
DSC03569.JPG
DSC03569.JPG [ 136.99 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

After a little fiddling around, and looking through my various scrap boxes, if found an ABS pipe with a radius close to that of the corners on my gusset plate. After some experimentation, I found some scrap angle iron and 1/8" plate scraps that gave me a way to pull the strip up snug in the corners use a arc-slice out of the ABS pipe.
Attachment:
File comment: a slice of the ABS pipe clamped into the corners pulled the metal in tight nicely. With the larger corners, I used this technique twice, one at the start of the curve, and once at the end of it.
DSC03568.JPG
DSC03568.JPG [ 135.02 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

It took some patience, and some careful checking that the strip remained touching the weld table surface, but a few strategic tack welds held it in place beautifully as I fed the strip around. I just kept working it until I reached the overlap of the strip as you can see below.
Attachment:
File comment: All tacked to the send of the strip, but leaving a significant bit of the overlap unattached.
DSC03570.JPG
DSC03570.JPG [ 138.8 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

Here's why the overlap was used. I just made sure the loose part of the strip was help tight with clamps, and then clamped the overlap itself. I use a Sharpie to mark tacked end position onto the free overlap section.
Attachment:
File comment: Overlap clamped for marking.
DSC03571.JPG
DSC03571.JPG [ 139.54 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

Using my grandfather's old tinning shears, I cut at the mark, giving me a perfectly fitting butt joint.
Attachment:
File comment: Tinning shears went right through the 20 gauge and gave me an excellent butt joint.
DSC03573.JPG
DSC03573.JPG [ 131.27 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

A few quick tack welds along the inside an doutside of the butt joint gave me a continuous coaming ring around the gusset opening.
Attachment:
File comment: Finishing the butt joinr.
DSC03574.JPG
DSC03574.JPG [ 141.48 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

Here's what the unit looks like in place. At a later date, I'll split some rubber surgical tube with an razor and place along the upper edge of the coaming as a gasket. I'll weld in some "L" brackets, and make a lid which will be fastened to them with screws, giving it a nice tight seal, but easy access to the footwell for maintenance. I'll use seam sealer on the top surface, and keep all the weld bead on the underside of the plate.
Attachment:
File comment: Finished piece in position.
DSC03575.JPG
DSC03575.JPG [ 135.74 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

This access hatch should give me plenty of room to see, and work on, the pedal box, steering gear, and accelerator pedal mechanism.
Attachment:
File comment: Access should be very good.
DSC03576.JPG
DSC03576.JPG [ 153.96 KiB | Viewed 501 times ]

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 28, 2017, 2:21 pm 
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Well, it looks like I'm off to designing stuff again. There are some small things I can do still, but I need to create some designs for the pedal box, cable clutch mechanism, accelerator pedal, dash hoop, steering wheel mount (to carry the Tilt/Telescope/Quick Release steering wheel stuff I did back on page 78) and then make up a mock-up or two of them to make sure they'll plausibly work before I build the real deal.

I spent the last two days going through my brake design stuff. I actually did it all by hand using Fred Puhn's "Brake Handbook" a couple of years ago. I needed to proof read and check all my calculations again and make sure they were reasonable. Also, I had a spreadsheet of Puhn's method that SeattleTom had updated from an earlier one published here on LocostUSA, and I wanted to use it as a second check. Once I got all the assumptions the same (by hand I assumed 0.30 for the brake pad coefficient, found out 0.40 is more realistic today and in the spreadsheet), both cases worked out to a very close degree. So, that one is "in the bag."

I bought a Wilwood bias bar setup and needed to refamiliarize my self with it. For the most part it's OK. However, I'm not fully happy with the way the remote cable adjuster works. It's rock solid in one direction (threading the nut on), but can come unscrewed going the other way. I think putting a set screw in the cable end nut will solve the problem, but feel like they should have figured that out a long time ago and I shouldn't have to.
Attachment:
File comment: Brake bias components, minus the remote adjusted cable.
Brake-Bias-Components.JPG
Brake-Bias-Components.JPG [ 135.44 KiB | Viewed 452 times ]


These design tasks always take twice as long as I expect. I'm expecting it will take me two weeks to noodle everything out, so that probably means it will take 4 instead.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 30, 2017, 2:27 am 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Does the cable end thread into the bias bar? If so, is there enough thread for a jam nut? That and locktite should be pretty solid.
Kristian

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PostPosted: January 30, 2017, 11:16 am 
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Those are good thoughts, Kristian. I really won't know how much extra space I'll have on the end of the shaft (where the remote adjuster cable end attaches) until further along in the process. A jamb nut might be possible.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 15, 2019, 4:59 pm 
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Well, I'm certainly glad the site is back up (10/15/2019 @ 1:45 pm PST), but it looks like we've lost 2+ years of postings, at least at this time. Maybe a subsequent backup will change that?

The "What interesting, non-Locost thing have you done" topic is missing too, so I'll post the answer to that question in my case. If it gets overwritten in the next day or so, that will be OK.

We have been on a nice vacation. Although we rented a cabin, we ended up "lake hopping" in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains of California. Here are a few photos:

The cabin we rented + our Sport Trac:
Attachment:
File comment: Our rented cabin at Convict Lake and our Ford Sport Trac.
Our Cabin & Sport Trac.jpg
Our Cabin & Sport Trac.jpg [ 153.09 KiB | Viewed 336 times ]


Visiting critters to the cabin:
Attachment:
File comment: Small female deer + yearling.
Cabin Visitors.jpg
Cabin Visitors.jpg [ 140 KiB | Viewed 336 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Small herd of male deers.
Male Deer Herd.jpg
Male Deer Herd.jpg [ 268.02 KiB | Viewed 336 times ]


Convict Lake (~7,500 feet up), where we were home based:
Attachment:
File comment: Photo of Convict Lake.
Convict Lake.jpg
Convict Lake.jpg [ 138.09 KiB | Viewed 336 times ]


Horseshoe lake (~8,500 feet up) on Mammoth Mountain:
Attachment:
File comment: Horseshoe Lake on Mammoth Mountain
Horseshoe Lake - Mammoth Mountain.jpg
Horseshoe Lake - Mammoth Mountain.jpg [ 107.49 KiB | Viewed 336 times ]


Us at an overlook on Mammoth Mountain with our two dogs:
Attachment:
File comment: Overlook (looking east in photo) on Mammoth Mountain.
Mammoth Mountain Overlook.JPG
Mammoth Mountain Overlook.JPG [ 150.35 KiB | Viewed 336 times ]


Cheers all,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: October 16, 2019, 12:15 pm 
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Posts: 800
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Thank you Lonnie for posting these up.. We always seem to default our 'big' outdoor trips to South Lake Tahoe, but we've been talking about breaking tradition and exploring the Mammoth area.. very pretty..

*btw, Dave pasted up saying that the locostusa site will soon be fully restored to include all back-posts, but that anything posted between now and the pending update/restore will be lost..

--ccrunner

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