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PostPosted: June 6, 2014, 7:26 am 
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Anyway, I'd remove that Tee and toss it.

Or take it out back and smash hell out of it with a hammer... Therapeutic, doncha know... :mrgreen:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: June 6, 2014, 8:10 am 
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I had a couple of bad tees on TETANUS. I thought I was screwing up inverted flares and the issue was the machined part :BH:

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PostPosted: June 6, 2014, 1:34 pm 
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Joined: August 12, 2012, 6:38 pm
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Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
if you're hand-flaring steel lines, its very easy to push the initial bubble flare off center, prior to folding it in fr the double flare. then, when you tighten it into the fitting, the harder steel deforms the brass, pushing the inverted cone off center.

I had a similar persistent leakage problem on the B-3 front brakes, (on which I was using MGB nickel-copper pipes) which turned out to be badly formed flares on the ends of the brake pipes. I had to break it all down and redo the doouble flares where the brake pipes mated with the brass T-fitting from the front master cylinder.

check your flares and make sure they're concentric and straight.

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PostPosted: June 7, 2014, 1:27 am 
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Joined: February 20, 2009, 2:27 pm
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Location: Reno, Nv
Thank for the comments. Yes I plan on getting a new Tee as the first flare may have been off center and could have damaged the fitting. This week at work I worked on the MegaSquirt EMC at the motel.
This weekend I have to show a son inlaw how to change a timing belt but hopefully I'll be able to provide guidance and work on my car.

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PostPosted: June 7, 2014, 7:10 am 
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That's why I just buy premade steel lines from a local parts store even though I have the tools to flare my own and would not hesitate to flare aluminum lines. The premade lines also have an epoxy coating. The line rack is usually in the back of the store, but a smart clerk will allow you to go back there escorted to select the lines.

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PostPosted: June 7, 2014, 9:05 am 
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Location: Reno, Nv
Yes I thought of using premade lines but have had good success in the past flaring my own. And as this particular line is SAE on one end and metric on the other I don't think I would find a premade one.
I replaced the steel line with one made with 'Cunifer' tubing from Fedhill and I highly recommend it.

From their web site http://www.fedhillusa.com
FedHill is the exclusive importer for Cunifer™ brake line products. Cunifer™ is a seamless, copper-nickel alloy DOT approved brake line that is as strong as steel, completely corrosion proof and is easier to work with than any other brake lines on the market. It is easy to bend, which allows it to be snaked into positions that conventional brake lines cannot. Cunifer™ also flares easier, seals better and requires less prepartion than any other tubing on the market. It does not rust, so it is perfect for any environment. No other brake tubing compares for strength, reliability and ease of installation!

The line is softer then steel and when I complete the flare I stop short and leave the fitting to do the final seating. Of course that said I do have a leak. so my recommendation is probably not worth much.

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PostPosted: June 8, 2014, 12:08 am 
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Joined: February 20, 2009, 2:27 pm
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Location: Reno, Nv
The brake tee was damaged by the first steel line. I couldn't find one locally but had one I could tap to make work.
I was worried the new line may be damaged but here is a picture of the end of the new line and after install NO LEAKS :D
Attachment:
IMG_0174.JPG

While helping the son inlaw with the timing belt I decided it was time to let the car feel the ground for the first time.
Attachment:
IMG_0176.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_0177.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_0178.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_0179.JPG

Sure looks small sitting there. I guess I should wire up the head lights or at least install the left light.
What a great feeling, starter, clutch, brakes, steering all working and ready to go. :cheers:
The wife said she was going to take the seats to get reupholstered next week.

The one negative for the day is when I fill the engine with water I found the water pump started to leak. Just a minor inconvenience.


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PostPosted: June 9, 2014, 11:24 pm 
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On the ground and rolling around, yes, that's got to be exciting. Congratulations! That has got to be a major milestone in anyone's book.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 11, 2014, 10:11 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
It dose feel good. A lot of guys get their car on the ground as soon as they can get the tires on but I kept finding things to do that were easier with the car up where I didn't have to bend over. But I'm anxious to get the engine running so I think it was time. I am having trouble connecting with my MegaSquirt and I posted in the MegaSquirt thread and MSextra forum and I hope to have that sorted next weekend.

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Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245


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PostPosted: June 15, 2014, 7:27 am 
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I like the engineering of your throttle pedal, to prevent bending the cable near the crimp/soldered end. Nicely done!

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: June 15, 2014, 10:58 am 
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Location: Reno, Nv
Thanks. It's the stock cable and almost to short (another foot would have been nice to run around the front of the engine instead of over it. It dose work nice and smooth and with all the pedals working I found I need to move the throttle pad over to the right. At least I built in some adjustment to all the pedals so its just a matter of unscrewing the pad and moving it.

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Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245


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PostPosted: July 29, 2014, 8:48 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
I won't be updating any time soon as I sold my house and moved to Reno, Nevada. But we haven't found a house yet so the car is in storage at my Daughter's house at south lake tahoe while the wife and I live in a travel trailer.

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Build Loghttp://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6245


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PostPosted: July 30, 2014, 11:36 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Good luck in your new locale. Just remember to hold out for a great garage or shop when you buy! Husbands deserve happiness too.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 31, 2014, 2:56 pm 
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Oh, trust me I will have a shop that will not have the wife's car in it. I'm looking for a two bay with work area. But it may take a while to find or I may have to build my own.

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PostPosted: January 21, 2015, 11:45 am 
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Location: Reno, Nv
A long time has past but I haven't given up. I now live in Reno, Nevada on two acres and am waiting on the paper work to start my shop/house. Here is a rough plan view
Attachment:
All South plan.jpg

And a view of the south side from the street as shown in the winter. I should get enough solar heating for most of the heating in the winter.
Attachment:
Snyder south from street.jpg

The gray panel on the right side is for solar water heating.


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